Geeto67

I think there are a few here that work on Beemers for a living so please chime in. I had a battery explode back in march. bought a new battery (NAPA), had it registered in the ECU and drove around. Recently (october) the alternator in the car went bad so I took the battery out and put it on a bench charger and found it would only take 11.8V. Had it warranty replaced with a new one identical to the old one. Put a new alternator in the car and all seems to be working right. Question: If I only had the battery registered 7 months (and less than 1000 miles) ago, do I have to register the battery again? or should I not worry about it? I don't have a tool that can register it so it's money to have it done either way, I'm just wondering if it needs to be done. thoughts?

if either of you guys had been paying attention, this vaccine was originally announced mid march when they first began testing. It's been reported on this entire time and by the way....there still isn't a "solid" vaccine, there is only promising results from the first round of the 3rd clinical trials, there are still results from 2 more rounds to analyze and maybe if all goes will we are still probably 6 mos to a year away from it being declared safe for all. They are trying to get emergency waiver fromt he FDA to try and administering on a broader basis by December but any change in the results means it won't happen. but don't let that get in the way of a good conspiracy theory, I mean who cares about facts when it's so much more interesting to ignore it and imagine intrigue.

It is kinda. But I think I left something out that may not be clear. There are two ways an HOA can form - at the beginning established and managed by the developer, or later formed by the residents. If it is the later kind, a majority (usually 60%) of the home owners in that neighborhood have to agree and join. In that later case, There are limits to what an HOA can do. It can't enforce a restrictive covenant on your property that wasn't there when you moved in unless you agree to it (or the majority of residents agree and you don't object). Often that means that the HOA will get you to agree to abide to their rules when you become a member. Sometimes you'll hear about people being "grandfathered" in to certain rules, meaning they refused to agree to those later covenants and thus have an exemption. So even if there is something that the majority of the people in your neighborhood agree to but you object to, you can fight it and maintain your right to not follow the restriction. This is why it is important for you to pay attention to any notices from your HOA and attend any meetings that come up.

Yes, assuming that those covenants are still valid and not invalidated by subsequent law. Covenants are enforceable by law, basically your neighbors can just sue you directly if you violate a covenant. HOAs prevent this by basically standing between the neighbors and sometimes acting as a go between so it doesn't devolve into the Hatfields and the McCoys. If your neighborhood was built before the HOA was formed and your HOA is voluntary, you don't have to join the HOA, but you still have to follow the covenants. The downside to not being part of the HOA is that the HOA will just sue you instead of one of your neighbors if you violate the covenant. By being a member you have the advantage of being able to work it out with the HOA before any real legal action is taken since there are laws that specifically require HOAs to have a complaint resolution process. Does that answer your question?

I love how the majority of responses here are "I haven't read it, I don't know anything about it, but here's my shitty uninformed opinion anyway". CR really should be better. ballotpedia has a pretty good summary of it here: https://ballotpedia.org/Columbus,_Ohio,_Issue_2,_Civilian_Police_Review_Board_and_Inspector_General_Charter_Amendment_(November_2020) if you are looking to learn a ton about the history of civilian review boards and how they have worked in the past and how they work in other states, this is an interesting paper: https://www.ncjrs.gov/pdffiles1/nij/184430.pdf If you are looking for something to universally solve police corruption and disrupt the blue wall that protects it, this singular measure is not it. It is a step in the right direction toward that goal, but it's not enough on it's own. What this does do, is bring Columbus up to par with a lot of other cities that do take police corruption seriously by taking some review of complaints out of the hands of the police themselves who have been known to just bury it or ignore it. while there is an increase in accountability, without revisiting qualified immunity that increase is limited. It also has shown a marked improvement of police and community relations in other cities, which is something we can usually all agree is good. another good read on civilian review boards: https://scholars.org/brief/how-civilian-review-boards-can-further-police-accountability-and-improve-community-relations My take on it? I think this is a good thing, and something every single Columbus resident should vote for if they care about their police actually doing good police work. Just don't put too much weight into it that it will solve everything that is wrong with policing in this country.

No, thankfully. Although he did post in that "issue 2" thread recently that can best be summed up as "Didn't read it, don't know anything about it, but here is my opinion anyway".

You agree to it when you buy that specific home. Don't want to agree to it? don't buy that home. How is this hard to understand? They cover all the covenants as part of the closing. The majority of covenants are drafted to deal with restrictions on the community as a whole. usually things that affect drainage and access, but they can go as far as telling you how your house should look, how long your grass is allowed to get, and how wide your driveway can be (because it is presumed that the value of your home based on it's curb appearance affects all others in the neighborhood). Covenants also have some ugly history in enforcing segregation and racial bias in home ownership, but that's a discussion for another day as most of them have been invalidated by federal law.

Zoning boards and the county office enforce zoning laws and regulations. HOA's enforce covenants, which are agreements embedded in the title to your house that you are obligated to abide. So I hate to say it, while the zoning board gave you an all clear, there might be something in the covenant of your house that restricts your driveway width and the HOA might be in the right. The reason you check with the HOA is to make sure there aren't further restrictions YOU AGREED TO when you bought the house. It could also be a power struggle that you didn't go to them, but you are obligated to go to them so you fucked up. The first thing I would do is write them a letter (certified delivery) that request them to explain the grounds for their demand in detail. The second thing I would do is get a hold of your HOA's bylaws and figure out their appeals process, because you are going to need it. Also verify the reasons for whatever they tell you. At some point you may need a lawyer, HOA's have a lot more power than you think (they can foreclose on your home and even kick you out). I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you didn't do your due diligence. The good news is that HOA's are made up of people, and some can be reasonable. If they are objecting solely on the grounds that you failed to notify or file with them, then usually something can be worked out. If there really is a covenant restricting the size of the driveway, then that's going to be a harder battle to get a waiver or variance, and the worst case scenario is that your new driveway has to get torn up. best of luck.

I had a 3 on the tree dodge dart, and drove a 3 on the tree 80's ford van for a job I had 20 years ago. If you are used to driving stick then it will take about 2 hours of driving it before you get the hang of it. I personally think it's fun and have sometimes wondered why there was no 4 on the tree (There actually was but they are super rare). the trans is basically the same 3 speed saginaw manual GM was using from 1966-1987 (the 68-69's had an electric overdrive to make them 4 speeds) and for being a light duty trans is pretty robust. Because of the long shifter linkages it can get a little sloppy with age. I think the most fun is when passengers who have never see one get in the car and you start shifting and they freak out because they think you are constantly slamming the auto into park. As for the engine swap - I believe the only v6 in the squarebody was the 4.3 v6 which is 3/4 of a 350 chevy anyway, so the engine swap part of it is as easy as getting squarebody v8 mounts and dropping the engine in. As far as the trans is concerned - GM put this trans behind small block v8s and it can handle a decent amount of power. Circle track racers used to love them because they could use 1st as starter gear and then just rock back and forth from 2-3 like a hi/lo shifter. If you want to go to the floor shift, Hurst, Mr Gasket, etc...all made (and still make) floor shifter conversions for the 3 speed, installation is as easy as cutting a hole in the floor for the floor shifter. They should use the same crossmember as the 4 speed muncies so if you are swapping to one of those old transmissions you may need a new mount but not a crossmember. I don't know the interchange between 5 speed manuals and 4 speeds, but I believe the 200R4 auto used the same crossmember as the the TH350/400 and 3/4 speed manuals - no idea about the 700r4. Personally if it is a stick car and you aren't looking to make 500hp with it, I would keep the 3 speed and look for a working electric overdrive from one of 68-69 models - this way the truck looks original but you can run decent rear gears with the overdrive.

GM Engineer 1: Hey what's that thing that everyone in the 1980's and 90's hated about our cars? GM Engineer 2: Leaky T-tops GM Engineer 1: Yeah, we should put that on our new $112K competition for $30K offroaders because that would be super funny GM Engineer 2: totally, it would be like a 4 door 1979 Trans Am. Long Live the Bandit! I like the thing, and I like that it's ev, but I think I would also like an actual ICE powered $30K competition for the wrangler from GM (with a stick). Maybe keep the hummer one EV and release the gas one as a chevy (maybe resurrect the K5 moniker).

That's the point of the show though, there aren't clear good guys and bad guys - there are opposing forces that are at times good and at times completely fucked up. If Homelander was clear of vision and free of conflict and had just flawed morals he and the show just wouldn't be that interesting (see thanos in the MCU for example). We root for Huey and Butcher, not because they are paragons of virtue (they are not), because they don't have powers and the fear and anger they have toward individuals who do (esp corrupt individuals) is our fear and anger.

try harder

it does, but the kid and wife know how to work a dvd player and they just want to put a disc in and have it play, not navigate menus with a game controller.

Or you can buy a turbocharged Busa, a race suit, and go out to a Land speed event. you won't hit 300mph but you'll be mid 200s on your own. could probably do it for under $10K too. That said, I've been 200mph on an R1 on the street and I'll probably never do that again out of sheer fright and the wisdom that comes with old age.

0-331mph in 1 minute and 14 seconds approximately. holy crap that's quick.

slight thread hijack: How many HDMI jacks do the TCL TV's have? I'm looking for a second TV, 50" screen (because that's what fits the cabinet in my loft) and need to connect a PS3, DVD player, and VHS player if possible. Our old Samsung from 2010 accommodated all those things easily, but the brand new Samsung I got only has 2 HDMI ports and no av jacks at all. Any recommendations for a 50" that can handle some old ass tech?

5th gen camaro SS 6mt.

mustang :gabe:

white with a red gut is so pretty. Couple of things I recommend: - Brakes. The C3 brakes are actually pretty great (4 opposed piston calipers) but they are old tech and require maintenance to keep working right (fluid flush once a season to prevent air inclusion from the old tech seals). Wilwood makes a 6 piston opposed caliper that bolts over stock rotors and fits inside stock wheels. modern car braking for less than $1000. https://www.zip-corvette.com/65-82-d8-6-wilwood-6-piston-front-brake-kit-red.html - Induction. I love carbs but they are just fuel toilets for an engine. Consider a holley sniper if you are going to drive the car more than just an occasional weekend. Better reliability, consistent fueling, and you don't have to worry about ring wear like you do with a carb engine. Plus you get a rev limiter, the ability to run electronic fans, and if you want to go crazy - timing with the holley distributor. - rear hatch: If you can find it, the 1982 collectors edition had a rear hatch like yours but it opened. It was a kit made by C&C (now defunct) that GM actually used on their own cars, but anybody could retrofit it to any 1978-1982 C3. NOS C&C kits come up for sale every once in a while for big money, but if you look around you can sometimes find someone parting out a 1982 CE and grab all the hardware and hatch for cheap. It makes the car so much more useful, but it's going to take time and patience (and money) to track down the parts.

they have this adapter that lets you lift from the frame: https://stertil-koni.com/vehicle-lifts/accessories/mobile-column-lifts/universal-fork-adapter

I have no experience with them, but Jay Leno uses these Stertil-Koni, mobile lifts. Seems like a way better option than a drive on 4 post. no idea about the cost though. It can pick up the car by the wheels or by the frame, seems like the best of both worlds. https://stertil-koni.com/vehicle-lifts/mobile-column-lifts/mobile-column-lifts#specifications

Nice score. I saw it in the background of pics in some of your other threads and was curious. C3s get a lot of hate because they don't live up to the "corvette expectation" and because most of their production was plagued by strikes and poor build quality, but they really are a great car for the money. lots of curb appeal. AS Tim mentioned the 200r4 trans swap is probably the best upgrade you can do to the car. The hard part about a 200r4 is finding a core. IIRC from when we did it to a friends car years ago, you'll need a TH400 trans mount and maybe a different yoke for the trans to mate to the drive shaft if you have one of the aluminum case diffs but it's an off the shelf part. Shiftworks makes the shifter kit.

Turnover is huge over there. Their model is kind of open platform but it doesn't encourage anybody to stay. Anyone can create content with Kinja, but it's hard to get people to read it without a following. Plus there is no incentive to stay, once you get a following because they don't pay all that well. I was an independent contractor with Jalopnik 10+ years ago in the old Gawker days, and it was a bitch and a half to get paid. Every invoice took 2 months for them to pay, and sometimes not at all. They still owe me $500 from 2009, :lolguy:. I don't know if that much has changed since Univision bought them.

if you still have it in feb....I may reach out about that.

David Tracy is pretty much the only one worth reading on jalopnik these days. just waiting for the day he realizes his content is more valuable and the site is holding him back and then strikes out on his own for youtube, MTOD, or Autotrader like DDM, Hoovie, Tavarish, et al. that said, I only read it on firefox or google chrome and with ad block. I don't bother with mobile for reading jalopnik, but once in a while it does come up in my apple news app on my iphone. If I read it in the news app there aren't many ads if at all. I just checked it and there weren't any ads at all across 4 articles. So maybe try that.