Geeto67

I rotate between the one on 5th ave in grandview, the one by downtown hilliard, and the one by the big sandy near sawmill in dublin. If you are going to go there and talk to them, there is an enterprise truck rental on Shire Rings Rd in dublin. Often the local agencies can do more than what is on the website. In my experience they can sometimes offer you a weekly rental flat rate instead of per day + mileage. I have wondered about that. Even if you get the extra insurance? I usually get supplemental rental car coverage through my Amex to cover me just in case. Doesn't have as many caveats as the ins offered through the rental place.

It's been a few years but IIRC the front has to be put into service position at least. yeah I suppose if you are a pro and used to being a little blind while taking out and putting in bolts you can do it without even that. At the time I did mine, I ended up doing a water pump, a t-stat, and a bunch of other preventative things at the same time so I ended up taking the whole rad support off - made the job so much easier.

enterprise says they don't have hitches on their trucks but every single one I have rented from them (7 in the last 3 years) has had a hitch. Enterprise will rent you the same truck under enterprise truck rental, but there is a pay by the mile charge if you are going to tow.

I still love my wife's 2006 audi a3, even though it went from her DD to her play car. It's a base model, no options, 2006 A3 6mt 2.0T. Maintenance has been cheap thanks to ECS and FCP Euro - most of the car has parts that cross reference with the MK 5 GTI. The car is really sensitive to maintenance, there are a couple of cheap things and cheap upgrades that if you do them ahead of time you avoid expensive repairs. timing belt service is evey 70-80K miles, and expensive if you pay a shop but cheap if you DIY - just know that the front of the car has to come off and it will take you a weekend to do. Cam follower for the fuel pump needs to be done every 30k miles but it's like $20. Beware the options creep - it's tempting to want to get one with a lot of options and a dsg but the more options you have the more likely it's going to cost you in repairs. not fuel efficient, but every jeep I've had with the 4.0L inline 6 has been fairly reliable, and dirt cheap to fix. XJs are starting to go up in price so maybe look at a comanchee pickup. Even first gen grand cherokees with the six are reliable. you can even get a 5.9L 1998 GC under $5K if you look hard enough and that's a real fun jeep to drive. The best advice I can give you though - whatever you buy, buy a stick car. An appliance like economy car is always less soul sucking if you have to row your own gears.

congrats man, that's awesome.

Some things have drastically risen in price, the motorcycle lift for instance used to have a $289 blow out sale price and now it's $329-349 with the coupon. Other things are still stupid cheap, their wood workbench with a wood vice is still $115-119 on coupon sale and it's an excellent bench for what it is. Sometimes they are the only game in town. Recently I needed a 1.5" socket for the clutch on my old harley. Sears is gone so that wasn't an option, and Home depot, Lowes, True Value, and Do it Best only had sockets up to 1 1/8". Harbor freight had a "giant socket set" for $70 that came with 3/4" drive ratchet that has been stellar so far. The same socket in craftsman is like $12 just for the one. Even if i found a $10 one off amazon I would still have to wait for it in the mail.

The value of FI isn't horsepower, it's consistency, economy, reliability, and longevity. because it is consistent and self adjusting within a limited range it does allow you to get away with performance mods that on a carbed car would otherwise be harder to live with. Carbs are basically just a toilet for fuel, as much as we like to pretend all those needles and jets make it a precise instrument of fuel delivery, they are still pretty imprecise and subject to temp, barometric, and altitude changes. either way as long as you are happy with your van, that's all that matters. A later evolution of the same engine brings things like a 1 piece oil pan gasket over the LA's 4 piece one, and small details like that. It's just a suggestion though.

a) I am buried under my own projects. b) clay knows I am a hack. that said, the 5.9 magnum that was in my 98 grand cherokee was enough to tow my GTO and then some. 245hp and 345 ft/lbs made that jeep fun. way quicker than my buddy's 68 satelitte with the 360. I think those smog era mills are somewhere around 175hp. It's not just the FI, it's the cam, the exhaust manifolds, and various other parts 20 years of development take. When I researched it to put into my YJ I think I just needed headers and magnum engine mounts, the magnum uses the same trans bolt pattern as the LA engine. If you want to fall down that rabbit hole this is the place to start: http://www.magnumswap.com/

check your PCV valve isn't plugged up. a buildup of crank case pressure is going to force oil to look for any way it can get out. I had a lot of friends with small block mopars and usually an oil leak was the first sign of a blocked pcv. after that, check the timing cover and pan gaskets as those are the usual culprits. Honestly, this winter you should look for the most rotted 90's 5.9L dodge that still runs well and motor/trans swap that old van to the magnum 360 (5.9L). It's basically just a metric LA engine, and you'll get FI and overdrive.

I thought they shopped at Dick's

That a super nice truck....congrats. keep an eye on the side curtain airbags - earlier ones were deploying on even light trails. Should be fixed for yours, but it never hurts to keep it in the back of your mind. https://jalopnik.com/chevrolet-colorado-side-curtain-airbags-keep-deploying-1828951213

I don't have any sets anymore but BMW e30 (1984-1991) 3 series bottlecap wheels are a direct fit and usually pretty cheap if you look around. I used to pick them up for $100 a set and they are 15" 4x100. Plenty of honda and yaris people look for them too since they look kind of like 80's rally car wheels. just be careful that you get E30 wheels and not the ones for an old 2002 or an E21 - they are the same design but 13" and 14".

I'm just pleased that I am now a verb. :lolguy: Serious question though - are the prices going down? Not that I'm in a position to buy....well...anything, but I do daydream track the sales and they seem to have gone up and then stabilized during the pandemic. Miller, what's your thoughts - are GTS prices going down?

rather than sell this one, why not keep this one and sell the white/green one? this one is sooooo much better looking.

your exocet was cool and fun. congrats on the miata. what's the status on clay's old bmw?

I'll tell you something funny, I was at a car show recently with another CR member and there was an 99-02 cobra vert there. we were trying to figure out whether it was fake or real because of how subdued the cars look and how easy it would be to clone. I don't think we ever came to a consensus whether it was real or not.

13.07 on those flimsy leaf springs with no traction bars is no joke. congrats. if you are going to keep going with the pro-touring aspect of the car, an old hot rod trick to get an IRS rear end is to get a jaguar rear and weld the mounts into your mustang frame. might be worth looking into as a future project. All the heidts, kugel, etc...IRS hot rod rears are copies of the jag rear end. https://dazecars.com/dazed/JaguarIRSSuccess.html https://dazecars.com/dazed/JaguarIRS2.html

That, makes a lot of sense. I guess I am just frustrated by the ohio "rust free" tax. I tell you what has caught my eye lately - the '99-02 NA cobras. Terminator cobra look and IRS without the terminator price tag. The stink of ford under-delivering on 302 hp seems to have lingered and they aren't much more than a regular new edge GT.

Do you know what power head it is compatible with?

This....but one thing I will add.... this idea that there needs to be "room for investors" seems off. You aren't talking about a publicly traded company - it's privately held So any investor is just buying their share of the company off whomever is holding shares. What I think your partner is concerned about is that if you have too large a share then when an investor buys in you get some of that money as you may have to give up some of your stake. And if you don't (since it is yours and you do have a choice) you may end up with a larger percentage of ownership than him and thus more control. just something to think about.

Most of this list I agree with, the only one I think I have an issue with is 1969-1970 mach 1's. For some reason 1965-66 and 67-68 fastback anything mustangs are way more expensive than the 69-70 and I actually think that halfway decent mach 1s (usually $15-25k) are a good deal when compared to 1969 camaros and 1970 challengers. I can kinda see him saying they are overpriced for the project car ones that still seem to pull $10k for rotted shells, and that most mach 1s aren't anything special (the majority are 351 small blocks and some are even 2bbl 3 speed manuals). They were $5K-$10K cars in nice shape for all of the 90's and part of the 00's and I think David is just being salty that inflation caught up with them finally. adding to this list: - 1983-1988 Gbody performance anything. Seriously, Monte SS's, 442s, and regal T-types/grand nationals are out of control on pricing. I can see paying $12-15K for a super clean 1988 monte SS, I can't see $20K, and the guys paying $30K for non GN T-types? WTF? - Gbody el caminos. these $500 PWT mobiles are $5K-$10K now. I like these cars but I can't see $5K worth of fun in a $2500 trucklette when I can find GMT400s for that price. - SN95 new edge mustangs. I watched HRG buy a clean, high mile, new edge mustang for $3500 for one of their episodes - got on CL/FB marketplace - $7K for similar clean new edge. Why would these ever be over $4K when S197's are below $10K now? seriously? - 90's Subaru Impreza 2.5RS's. Even the 4 door rust boxes here in ohio are overpriced for what they are - a non turbo subaru with WRC blue paint, a spoiler, and some fog lights. Seriously, we can import same gen WRXs now, did nobody get that memo? - E30 bmws. I had a 1991 vert, a $500 clean body, nasty interior brooklyn beater with 200K miles that I loved dearly and would pay $3K to have back. $7K for a vert, $10K for coupe? No stock e30 broke 200hp, sure they are great engine swap cars for later motors, but come on man. Don't get me started on e30 m3s passing $100K - Z3 roadsters. I dare you to find a high mile 4 cyl z3 roadster for under $5K that wasn't used as a toilet at some point.

This. Although I will add, I wouldn't even worry about the interior much, as long as the dash pad isn't cracked, everything else for the interiors of these cars is available and pretty inexpensive. you'll probably want to swap front buckets anyway with something from an M car because the standard seats aren't usually great but the M car seats are usually recaros and fit nicely. Some of the headliners can be a bitch because the windshield may have to come out to take it out and put it in, so a nice headliner is a bonus. E30's have interiors like old muscle cars with flat door cards, so you can even make your own custom stuff pretty easily.

On power tour I counted half a dozen LS swapped bmws. 2 E36s (one was an actual m3), 2 E39's (one wagon, one sedan), an E30, and an E28. By far the E36 and E39 cars seem to be the most popular to swap - kits already exist for the engine mounts and the engine bays are wide enough to accept the LS v8 and be able to service it (the e39 came with a bmw v8 in it in the 535i,540i, and m5 models). My only concern with using one of these platforms is that as time goes on, you are going to see a lot more of them so it won't really be unique. The 90's 8 series is a good candidate since you don't see many of them, my only fear is the wiring is going to be the issue with those cars. the body harnesses run through the roof and most of the issues with those cars are electrical. The other issue is the rolling car might be hard to find for cheap - 8 series have climbed in value recently. It can be done though: https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/1697011-bmw-850-ls-5-3-turbo-1020-whp.html My personal picks would be: - An e34 (1989-1996) E34 5 series wagon. Considered an icon of bmw style and reliability, they are getting harder to find but not more expensive. beautiful when done right, lots of aftermarket support for the chassis, last of the full analog OBDI cars (no canbus to deal with), and just an all around useful car, esp as a wagon. I think the largest issue with an ls swap in these cars is the power steering clearance. https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1627723-bmw-e34-touring-ls1-swap-bmw-5-series-wagon.html - BMW 6 series E24 (1976-1989). This is another iconic bmw styled car that predates OBD II and canbus. Nice clean examples are expensive, but any project cars are usually pretty cheap, esp if the motor is blown. watch out for rust on these cars because it is notorious. - bmw e63/64 6 series (2004-2010). These cars are achingly beautiful but just awful claptraps of problems which makes them cheap, even the M6s. Awesome grand touring car that needs some chevy reliability. can bus system might be a challenge on the car, but if people are swapping e39's from the same era then it must be something you can figure out. I think this would be neat. esp a 6mt m6 vert.

great looking car, and as an 8p 6mt owner myself I can vouch for their reliablity and fun factor. you should post it to the "Audi 8p A3 owners Group (USA)" on facebook - saw a few "looking for" ads there recently.

I just bought some. have some stuff to grind down and needed them anyway so free plus shipping is worth it.