Nitrousbird

I called off sick from work today with the flu (awesomeness), so I've been working on this a few minutes at a time, depending on how I feel. I got everything working for the most part now: - There is no Acc+ from the C2R-VW like there is supposed to be. It shares the same soldered connections for the SWI-CAN for the Can-Bus info, power, and ground, so that's not the issue. Reason I know for 100% sure is the SWI-CAN ends up having it's own Acc+ output as well - they just decided to put it into a harness that has no output. Don't know why, the wire is even tagged for it. De-pinned that wire, and it works. - Steering wheel controls work too. The instructions for the SWI-ECL2 were semi-correct. Programming the version is 100% correct. They say you are supposed to connect the black wire off the Eclipse remote harness to the white wire on their harness if there is a black wire (but don't state if you are supposed to disconnect the white wire on the Eclipse harness). I just wired up the brown and white wires, and it works, leaving the black disconnected. - Programming the ECL2 is actually much easier than the instructions state. You simply turn the key on and hit the program button. After that, do a quick flick up on the volume wheel. Watch the unit blink. Do the same thing for volume down. For mode, just press the button quickly. Do the same flick up/down for the track wheel. That's it. If you follow the instructions, it doesn't work. Tested all of the functions, and they work great, without the delay some people say happens with the PAC stuff. - Not sure if the C2R-VW is actually working, as I still need to install the GPS antenna (I could tap into the factory sharkfin antenna, but that requires running a jumper wire through the car to where the connector is since this is a non-factory nav car. Also need to mount it and take a test drive to see how all the Nav stuff works. That said, the sound quality is pretty good...I'd say as good, if not better, than the factory head unit (I'd almost say better). I am going to write up a full guide and post it everywhere on what this takes, as the current online info is just plain aweful.

I always hear the stories about how PayPal screws people. But I wanted to point out that I just made my second claim against a seller, and the 2nd time it was rulled in my favor. 1 year ago, order a 8GB Memory Stick for my wife's Camera I bought her for X-mas. Ordered it well in advance (before we flew to Newfoundland), doesn't show up...had to buy one from Best Buy before we left. Call our neighbor a week after we left, still didn't show up. E-bay sends a scam alert about this seller, so I submit a claim, PayPal refunds the money (never any communication back from the seller, ever). A week later, the memory stick shows up, go figure. Ordered a toner cartridge for my HP 1018 Laserjet printer. I was still on the stock cartridge, and it lasted for thousands of pages, so I wasn't unhappy at all about buying a new one. Found a replacement for only $14 on E-bay shipped (which makes me wonder why people buy Inkjet printers). Takes WAY too long to ship (two weeks, twice the quoted maximum ship time). Put it in...paper jams. Swap the only one back in, no jams (luckily the printer is uber easy to swap toners). This printer has never, ever jammed...including doing professional quality wedding invitations, thank you cards, and hand-outs for our wedding in 2008. Swap back and forth several times, always jams with their toner, never with mine. E-mail back, they would be "happy to send me a new one if I mail the old one back." All in broken English, of course. I send a reply back stating I am willing to ship it back if they pay for shipping, as I'm not going to be out money for their crappy product. Get a broken English canned response back, stating they need to see it, and didn't even address the shipping issue. Screw them, file a PayPal complaint (with thorough details), and in less than 24 hours...refund. PayPal has never given me any issues over the many years I have used them. They aren't all bad like some may want you to believe.

Really? Having to unbolt a panel just to access the CANISTER oil filter (that requires a $60 tool to drain it if you want to do it correctly + expensive ass filter) != same as servicing any other brand. And oil changes are THE most basic servicing a car can have.

I've sat in a loaded F150...the dash is all the same. Seats are different though. Engine and such would be the same. I'd assume ride quality is similar as well with a more loaded model.

AWD car. 4WD truck. We drive over that shit. I do run the shovel down the sidewalk to the front door, but that only take a couple of minutes. It would take me forever to shovel the whole damn driveway, and I don't have the cash this season to be buying a damn snow blower. Maybe next year, if I decide we don't like just driving over the damn snow.

That's why my wife's car has the CPO warranty. I'm worried about when that warranty runs out...I'll probably suggest getting a different car at that time.

Hell, I like the center exhaust. I'll take both the Sedan and the Coupe please.

I've used that a few times, and honestly it isn't as good as having an in-dash Navigation or Garmin-type unit.

I love the car, and most everything about it. Except: You heard the price, right? 340,000 GBP = $545,313. Holly shit expensive. At 100-150k, that car would have sold like hot cakes, and been worth it. At over A HALF MILLION DOLLARS, there is no way in hell I'd want it, even if I were uber rich.

The Pioneer is a nicer unit. The Pioneer is more of a receiver + DVD + surround speakers where the Phillips is more of an integrated all-in-one unit with surround speakers. But that's also why the Pioneer is more expensive.....

I personally don't get it. I drive an 06 F150 daily, and unless they changed the F150 a LOT, I wouldn't even consider owning one. Rides like shit, uncomfortable seats, dash is cheap feeling (well, the whole damn truck is), and has had a number of problems a truck with 33k on the clock shouldn't have, including the slightly rough idle the dealer can't seem to fix, excessively quick tire wear, tailgate lock that lock that jams up, and A/C that leaked. I'll give it credit for having good brakes, and handles decent enough for a full-size truck, with decent steering feel for a full size. 4.6L is smooth when not idling up to redline, but not powerful by any means (my much heavier Avalanche is quicker). The Mustang is ugly. They did the best work on the Mustang with the 03-04 Cobra, and shit on it after that IMO. I've never driven a Fusion or Taurus, but they aren't a car I'd be in the market for, and looks wise don't do anything for me. Focus is a hunk of shit. Overall I don't see a lot of excitement in their lineup, but that seemed to work for Toyota for some reason.

A lot of car companies do that (I know GM and Ford offer it, as do some of the Japanese makers). They all have different names for it (RAPS is one that comes to mind); but it's all the same system - just something that keeps power to the Acc+ wire, nothing more. From what I have read further, the Acc+ is told to turn on by the Can Bus, so this is why the Acc+ wire from the standard Metra harness does nothing (not sure what the wire on the factory harness does, but sure as hell doesn't put out +12v. What I forgot to do when testing the Acc+ output from the C2R-VW unit was to re-attach the can signal wires; stupid tired oversite on my part - of course it wasn't on, as it didn't know to be on. So that's my guess on the issue; I'll know tonight for sure.

While taking a shower, I think I might have figured out the no Acc+ issue on the C2R-VW; I will know tonight when I can work on it again.

Maybe name it differently. What you are creating is EXACTLY the same thing this guy has. It may confuse those who want to go to your site, and may think they are going to to when they are really going to his.

Got it out. The face plate ended up popping off, so that will need some minor repair (if it is ever used again). Had to use screwdrivers to get the springs to disengage, and pliers to pull off the now-exposed metal. But that's only half the battle. Because I am using an Eclipse head unit, I have to use the PAC units to retain steering wheel controls. (SWI-CAN and SWI-ECL2). To power those two, plus get outputs for VSS and Reverse, you need the C2R-VW harness (plus it's PAC "processor"). Now is where I was baffled, and where the Audi forums either lied or didn't provide any information. That harness is not designed for this car at all. What i figured out is I needed to simply cut and hardwire the power constant and ground (no biggie). I had to figure out which wires were Can+ and Can- so I could wire those in correctly to the 20 pin harness, which is all figured out. But on the Metra harness, the Acc+ wire has no voltage on it (there is a pin on the factory harness, but no voltage and no documentation as to what it is for), and the parking light output doesn't even have a pin for it on the factory harness (though I can jump that from the output of the C2R-VW unit). The C2R-VW has a Acc+ output, but for some reason I'm not getting any voltage off of it. I only have a test light right now until I go grab my multi-meter from my rental house to see what the full deal is, because I am now thinking the C2R-VW might be defective. The SWI-CAN and SWI-ECL2 look to be working, as I can get an LED out of the ECL2 when I hit the programming button.

Sony is now sold. Had a buyer for the Harmon Kardon, but then he couldn't come up with the money. KLH center channel no longer in use (got the Yamaha I wanted for X-mas). Bump.

I never said the LSx wasn't a better motor...it is. But you are acting like it isn't worth building an LT1, and that is total BS. A lot of LT1 parts are much less expensive than LSx parts as well (such as the rotating assembly).

Got it on Blu-ray...excellent flick.

Odd that they still are developing new aftermarket parts for the LT1. If you were looking to do a max effort (1000+ HP) motor, I wouldn't go LT1. Below that, have at it...has been done for years with great results. Block is strong, and AFR 210's or better will get the job done heads wise. Ported stock or sheet metal intake and you are golden. Plenty of stock style suspension cars in the 8's and 9's running LT1's. If you want to go exotic, try to score yourself a set of 32v Dominion heads. THAT is different, though not worth the extensive work/money involved to get an unproven setup to work. And seriously, if I hear another retarded Opti comment. Do you know how many different solutions there are for the Opti problem, which BTW isn't nearly the problem people make it out to be. Yes, they will fail eventually, mine died @ around 80k, non-vented unit. $190 later, all fixed, no issues after that. Can go the MSD route, coil pack route, or a pile of other alternatives IF YOU NEED TO - most folks can stick with a stocker and be perfectly fine. Shitty LT1: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/My-friend-Ricks-1996-LT1_2272.htm (and it ran faster than that before he parted it out due to getting out of racing).

+1

Fuck the jacket, I have the North Face truck! That said, whomever ordered these trucks new were retarded...very expensive option that didn't give you much (only came on loaded trucks, and gave you different color leather seats and door panels with North Face badging, white face gauges with North Face logo, Z-71 badge delete, two small outside North Face badges on the outside C-pillars, a "Water Duffalo" bag, and two Avalanche specific back packs that attach to the rear of the front seats, and North Face badge on front floor mats). Oh, and the NFE option = no heated seats. Cool option to have in the used market where it didn't really add much to the resale value.

You can make so much reliable power with the LT1, I can't see a good reason to do a swap like that. Why not just put a roots blower on the car? Should be an easy swap on the Vette, and not seen to often on the LT1 cars.

Wife's 06 A4. Stock Symphony double din HU. Fucker won't come out...period. I ordered the 4 keys (cheapest ones on E-bay). No go. Got a slightly nicer set @ Walmart. No go. I watched every Youtube video out there on doing it. You simply slide the key in (it looks like a mini, dull, thin knife, with the longer side out), and it is supposed to slide out VERY easily from what the videos show. It doesn't. I hear the fuckers click in (sometimes at least, but I've heard all 4 click). Yet, it will not pull out. Yes, I've seen the trick of pushing towards the outside of the car with the keys, and it doesn't budge. Not even a little bit. I've installed a lot of head units, but never in a stupid German car. Fuck this POS. Any ideas worth anything, from someone who has actually done it (not just a link to a thread from some Audi/VW forum that I've probably already seen). Hell, I've read you can remove these with a mini screwdriver set, thin pearing knife, cut credit card, or even the metal from a hanging drawer folder. I can't even get it out with the proper fucking tool. I'd have been done with everything by now if this was a GM.

I never knew anything about these races. Was pretty awesome watching the video. So what officially happened that caused these downtown races to stop? I would think this brought a lot of money into the city...money the city could sure use now (and a hell of a lot better than raising taxes....).

Because a Mustang will never make the power to do that.