twistedfocus1647545489

Oh yeah, I almost forgot. Happy Birthday! That reminds me... I need to get tags soon too.

Absolutely

Sold/Replied

Fast Racing in Groveport has done excelent work for me.

$20?

If your drive gear inside the trans is a 7-Tooth (most common), you'll need a 21-tooth driven gear for 3.73/T-5. I always went to Ford dealers for them. The 21-tooth is red. The AOD probably has a 7-Tooth drive gears as well, but it may be 8. Normally it's best to check them first because an 8 tooth drive gear will require a different driven tooth count. If it's a 7-Tooth also, it will need a 20-Tooth driven (Black). If it's an 8-Tooth driven, a 21 will be close, but not exactly right. I can get you part numbers if your dealer has trouble finding them.

Can't take the Fur-Tumbleweed on trade as we already have a dog he would eat when he got drunk.

Martinis

This guy? http://www.bookofpdr.com/images/misc/hitler.gif

GT2= http://www.diseno-art.com/images/porsche-911-gt2-996-rear.jpg

This method might be easier: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/p70161_image_small.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/20463/&h=128&w=190&sz=13&hl=en&start=6&sig2=2ak7nvjnqG_I0Qq1vxFdXg&um=1&tbnid=IqsOQ1MdmHvkjM:&tbnh=69&tbnw=103&ei=Xm1URpmpKISmhQSTosG3Bw&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmach%2B460%2Btweeter%26svnum%3D10%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-us

That's odd, I was 13 or 14 when I had it done also.

I had the same procedure done to both big toes (after having the quick fix a few times on each). The soft part under the nail toughens up quickly, and you'll get most of the middle part back. You'll still need to clip that part when it grows into the end of your toe. Eventually with no nail over the end of it the toe starts to round out in shape, so it still sucks. I usually end up mangling myself every 2 months or so trimming them back.

First make sure the firing order is correct There are two different orders depending on what your cam is cut for (standard 302 or 302HO/351W). If that's good, I would suspect a vacuum leak, most likely an intake gasket judging by your fuel distribution problems (poor vacuum signal at the carb).

$30? Anyone? These would be decent wheels with a little work.

Looked to me like you could fix the fairing up (or not) and ride it like anything else. I was planning on picking something up like this as a beginner bike a while back.

This one looks promising - it's a Ninja, but not a 250 or 500. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36901

Yeah, rotors are just a wear item. No performance really to be found there as long as they are not known to be of inconsistent manufacturing and not overly-prone to warpage or cracking (Kelsey-Hayes?). Later models F-bodies seem to have trouble with some aftermarket cheapies under heavy use (road-racing and agressive pads), so sometimes paying a bit more for a known quantity is worth it... but in general I agree that the cheapest ones that work well are fine. You can always spend more money on pads.

Brembo OEMs are some of the best quality replacements you can get. I'm sure you'll be happy with them. I have had really good luck with them, even with very agressive pads. I know alot of guy into autocross and roadracing that swear by them (the standard, non-drilled OEMs - not the Drilled, Slotted, Acid washed, Pasteurized ones). Price wise, that's really not that bad for good rotors. For my car they are $64/each for fronts and $45/each for rears.

Every time I pass that place (the one on the right if you're facing them) I keep thinking of ways I could come up with the money to buy (and furnish:( ) that house. If money was no object - It's the one I would build, hands down. When I was looking last, that house is about 300k-ish which would leave you with 100k or so in the budget for land. Like cars, houses are a very personal choice kind of thing - but I would second checking that one out for sure.

Quad Postage? Nice...

I got some newer wheels recently and have all 4 of the OEM wheels off my Jeep for sale. Two of them are without tires and two have tires mounted. One tire was the spare which is a 225-75-15 with about 5% useable tread. The other tire is a 30x9.5-15 BFG Long Trail with about 50% tread. They are 15x7" with a 5x4.5" bolt pattern. They all have some curb rash and corosion. I was planning to sandblast them and paint them, but got too lazy. I'll take more pics if anyone needs them or come by and look. Pickup only please. EDIT:$0 (Free) for all of them. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/JeepBlackTrim.jpg

It has been my expericence that this is true. As others have said, the Nittos are a bit of a compromise tire, but to some degree they all are. Usually the better they hook, the more they will suck in rain and the faster they wear with normal driving. I always found BFGs to be the right compromise for me, but your results may vary depending on how (and how much) you drive the car. You're making a ton more power than I used to, so I would think that from a traction standpoint this might be a better choice - if you don't mind a marginal treadwear loss. As for the M/Ts, I don't think they have been released in 18s yet (but they're coming). They would likely hook the best, but as stated before they will probably have the worst treadwear (if you want to call it tread). They are opposite the Nittos in the compromise spectrum (more toward drag than street). Can you clear 17s on your car? You could always go that route if you decide to compromise in this direction. All that being said - the Nittos will at least be an improvement over standard street radials and won't require you to drive like you're on ice if you get caught in the rain and will probably last you most of the summer.

Element

I have been looking really hard at the Jeep Patriot. It's a crossover, not a "real" truck by any means (tows up to 2K), but it's AWD with a lockable center dif so that it's actualy 4WD as well. It seems to have a good combination of features and still gets in the mid 20mpg range equipped with all the cool stuff.