twistedfocus1647545489

My girlfriend and I went camping there just this past weekend and while looking at their site I was saying exactly the same thing. It's pretty crappy. There is worse I'm sure, but it's pretty sad.

I only went with the "Deluxe Package". I believe there is an "Ultimate" a step up from that. I think that as good as it is, it could have been even more dramatic for a few dollars more. I should have had this done years ago.

Ttt

Thanks guys. Andy does good work. That being said... buy the car from me before I change my mind.

Thanks again Andy. The car looks so good I was having a hard time putting it up for sale, even though I have been set on selling it since early Winter. It looks better now than it did when I bought it with 19k miles from a dealership that had "detailed" it. I got some other shots at work the other day, but haven't had it out to take any more pics in a better setting. I think yours are about as good as any of mine. There are a few more angles in my For Sale thread (First link in my sig ). http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/PassengerAngle.jpg

www.honda-tech.com is a big one

Sadly, I need to sell this one. I already have a commuter, although something like that would be alot nicer than my 90 Cherokee.

You should buy mine and see if anyone notices...

1999 Mustang GT Black with Charcoal Cloth Interior 74,000 Miles (much of it highway) 5-Speed Manual Transmission Independent Rear Suspension and Autocross/Road Race ready suspension http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/driverangle.jpg This handling/braking limit on this car is far beyond anything you’d actually need for street use, but is well mannered and actually rides quite nice (the IRS really helps with these cars in that regard). The solid bushings on the diff make a bit of a clunk when the drivetrain takes up slack, but it doesn’t bother me at all. If I was to nitpick I would say that’s about the only negative strike to drivability for this car and to me it’s a worthwhile trade for the added traction and resistance to wheelhop. They could be swapped out if it’s annoying, but it’s really not bad (besides, it’s a Mustang – they make noises). The exhaust is pretty loud and sounds very aggressive. It sounds like its much more than it is, but it does have a full exhaust with Flowmaster 40s. I had originally planned on changing to something a bit quieter, but it grew on me after a while so I left it alone. The car is very well balanced and while it’s no powerhouse it makes plenty of power to have fun on the street or even some classes of racing. I would estimate that it should put down around 255-260 hp with its current mods/tune. The car is a blast to drive, and I almost hate to part with it, but my priorities have shifted a bit lately and I can’t justify keeping a car I hardly drive. Engine GMS Upper Plenum BBK 75mm Throttle Body March Fluid Dampened Underdrive Pulley/Balancer (SFI Approved) Predator Tuned on a dyno(Predator incl. with car) 249 rwhp before Pulley and dirty MAF Has been retuned since cleaning MAF using a wideband O2/datalogger. PCV Oil Baffle system NGK Plugs Always used Synthetic Oil – Currently has Redline in it Top speed limiter removed Exhaust Stock Manifolds (no leaks) BBK Of-Road X-Pipe (rear O2s plugged/deleted in tune) Flowmaster 2-chamber Cat-back w/ 3" Chrome tips Chassis / Suspension Weld in subframe connectors BBK 3-point stut tower brace Bullitt Front Springs w/o isolators (~1-3/4" drop) 600in/lb Eibach Pro kit rear springs (~1-1/2" drop) 5??-8??in/lb Progressive rate for IRS Bullitt Front swaybar 2001 Cobra Rear Suspension (Independent) – with 31 spline shafts Kenny Brown IRS Crossmember and Solid Dif mount bushings 3.73:1 Ford Racing Gears Torsen T2 torque sensing differential (clutchless) Diff is filled with Redline Heavy Shockproof Oil Koni Sport (Yellow) Single adjustable shocks Front/Rear (Specifically valved for IRS) Maximum Motorsports 4-bolt Caster-Camber plates w/ solid bushings Somewhat aggressive alignment – Not enough for funny tire wear 1 degree negative camber front and rear. near zero toe. 4.5 degrees of caster. Brakes Cobra Front and rear (13" and 11.65") Hawk HPS Pads ATE Super Blue Fluid (very high boiling point) Other Pioneer CD player (Plays CDRs & CDRWs) B&M Ripper Shifter Clutch Pedal height adjuster (moves it down by the brake pedal) UPR Clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster Later model OEM grey Bullitt wheels w/ almost new Kumho tires Minor “Issues” A/C cycles off/on when it’s turned on. I’m fairly certain it’s a bad pressure switch (easy fix). I have only used the A/C on rare occasions and only recently noticed it was doing this. There is a fairly deep handlebar rake/ding into the paint on the passenger’s side rear quarter (last pic below). This happened right before I put the car away for the winter and isn’t bad enough I felt the need to claim it on my insurance or have it fixed. New Price: $8,000 Post or PM here or email to twistedfocus_at_columbus.rr.com http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/Broadside.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/PassengerAngle.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/RearView.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/Interior.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/twistedfocus/Scratch.jpg

I'd start by checking for vacuum leaks. If nothing changes when you adjust it (like screwing the mixture screws all the way in or something) it's probably pulling air in somewhere else and will not be able to meter the fuel correctly. If this is an old carb check around the carb itself for leaks (especially the throttle shaft), as that's an often overlooked source of vacuum leaks.

Nice! Andy's doing mine tonight. I hope to see some similar magic with my car. My paint is a bit more oxidized and swirled, so he's got his work cut out for him I'm sure.

[hijack] Clark, You have earned the coveted Sweetest Sig Pic Evar Award [/hijack] All of your clutch stuff will work provided you are using a flywheel with the correct bolt pattern. You can use the same one from your 5.0 as long as this new engine is a 50oz. imbalance as well (and I believe most of the later, roller cammed 351s were). If its a 28oz. you'll just need a 28oz. balance flywheel with the correct clutch bolt pattern (they are plentiful). Cam-wise, I have had good luck with the Comp Extreme Energy line. I'd probably do a XR274 (#35-518-8) for a daily, even though it's more displacement. I have used the XR282 on a 5.0 and had excellent results, but it was really pushing drivability and was irritating to drive on a small displacement engine, and would likely not be much better on a 351 to be my first choice. Either one will likely require valve springs depending on what's on your heads now. (edit - if you're still running stock pistons, either of these is probably going to require flycutting for clearance and maybe a B303 would be a better choice) As for intake, headers and distributor... you'll need those too. If you already have an aftermarket intake, you may be able to buy just the correct base to adapt it over (depends on the brand). You can use the same motor mounts, but if you do you will need to do something for hood clearance, like swapping to a cowl hood. Also - an often overlooked part of the swap is the fact that Ford has used eleventy billion different timing cover/pulley offset configurations over the years... so to keep it simple I would swap over all of your 5.0 stuff. That's probably already your plan, but I've seen people try to mix-n-match and it usually becomes a headache.

You guys are having pie? What kind?

Brian Turner: (614) 778-8984

http://www.goodbuddynotes.com/images/Gracie_pajamas.jpg

They're a fair amount lighter than the stock steel unit, but I doubt you'd see alot of gain from it. Mostly it's a good upgrade in strength and it's always a good idea to reduce reciprocating mass... but usually something like this I would only spend money on if you already need a driveshaft anyway (like when I bent mine). If you're looking to make a really significant change by reducing the weight of something, your money would be better spent on an aluminum flywheel if anything. Really lightweight wheels can make a somewhat noticeable difference as well.

Did you get the car back together???

I'm an artist? http://www.jasonrice.com.au/

Grilled subs. Kind of like a Subway/Blimpie/Quizno's...etc. They're pretty good in my opinion.

Yeah, that's too bad because they really don't strike me as being worth near that much except for the rarity. On the bright side I'm pretty sure the body is stainless steel. It'll probably last a while. I wonder if you'd get a ticket for polishing it to a mirror finish...

I use VPN to do some work from my login at work a fair amount. It is a bit slow, but not unusable for running most software. It's really easy to set up your home machine if you already have a VPN host set up on your server, expecially if you're using XP. If you don;t already have a host configured, you can usually find some decent tutuorials on such things floating around on the net. Here's a link to setting up a VPN Host on Windows Server 2003: http://www.windowsdevcenter.com/pub/a/windows/2004/03/09/vpn_connection.html

Also, don't forget to purchase the "OUTATIME" license plate.

Sweet! DeLoreans for sale: http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/searchresults.jsp?num_records=25&search_type=used&distance=0&address=43015&style_flag=1&make=DELOREAN&model=DMC12&make2=&start_year=1981&end_year=2008&min_price=&max_price=&transmission=&engine=&drive=&doors=&fuel=&max_mileage=&color=&keywords_display=&sort_type=priceDESC&body_code=0&certified=&advanced=&default_sort=priceDESC&keywordsrep=&keywordsfyc=

I never really cared for their food either, but I used to almost live at the Georgesville location (and now Delaware) because I am weak to the allure of the combination of Beer and Trivia. Never got sick though. That sucks. -note: Yes, Beer and Trivia are now proper nouns.

Well, Ford has a tendency to change things every random thursday as it is... it's hard to keep track.