Trouble Maker

Have you spoken to this Zachary gentleman to inquire if he might be interested in a barter of your bike for his automobile?

West Milton tri; canoe 3 or 4 mi, run 5, road ride 17. My running is slightly lacking so I will prob need a few days to recover. I still want to get a regular weekly run and another day for riding. Some guys I indirectly know ride on Tuesdays and thursdays so maybe that's a place to start. Or maybe run on a weekday evening and ride on Saturday morning? Lowballer, If you want to realize how slow you are you should come out on Tuesday or thursday. I'm not fast but some of those guys are beyond fast. What's your time at phase 2?

Should have gotten ahold of you, I rode phase 1 around 12 yesterday. Have a race on saturday so mostly resting this week. After I recover I'm down next week.

:fuckyeah:

Punk kids I knew it high-school may have gotten out of the car and beat your ass senseless if they were parked on the side of the road smoking (or doing whatever) at 3am and you decided to go knock on the window to ask them what was going on. You did the right thing Zach, you never know who someone is, what they are capable of or how many people may be inside of a car you can't see inside of. I wouldn't sweat it, just keep an eye on your shit for the next few days.

http://www.dlisted.com/files/carrottopgetitgetit.jpg

I'm dying here every time I look at him posing with the knife in the first pic

I'm guessing both. Girl noticed the camera and tried to hide her head in shame but didn't realize she was trying to hide her head in a face rapist lap :lolguy:

I was just coming to post this but you beat me to it! Justin, good luck with the sale, I'm sure this will help a little bit.

Maybe their a doc who does vasectomies :gabe:

That's not a torque curve, it's a torque plateau.

Yeah, it depends on what you are using it for and how often. From the little bit I've used Open Office at home and how much I use MS Orifice at work, I don't think I'd want to use Open Office like I use MS Orifice at work. That's probably mostly because I've used MS Office more and I'm more proficient with it. But for piddly shitting around at home, you can't beat it. It's not even worth posting a thread on CR to try to find an illegal copy of MS Orifice since Open Office is free, easy to find, and AFAIK completely compatible with MS Orifice (files). :gabe:

WHY U NO USE OPEN OFFICE?

Sorry for the ignorance, but what (trim/learning) will that clear that an erase by a code scanner (or simply disconnecting the negative battery cable for 15seconds) won't?

Clean looking car! I just got done installing one (M2 w/double diag. into a 1999). Spend some money on general 'maintenance' items too. Although I'd say a bar is second on that list (and before rims and coil-overs). Put MTL in the gear box and shifter turret. This thing shifted just fine before, but ones it's warmed up it shifts like butter now. The clutch fluid was black, glad we replaced that. Both shifter boots were destroyed. A few thing I learned during the process of installing the cage. Just take the seats out, it's 4 bolts/seat and I have no idea why they don't tell you to take them out in their instructions. I can't imagine installing this thing with the seats in. In my pic the center console is removed, that's not for the cage install. We also installed new shifter boots. Check yours if you haven't already. Take out every electrical wire you can on the drivers side. If you take enough crap out those wires will move out of the way and this makes it much easier to slide the cage in. Get someone else to help you put the cage in the car. You could do it with 1 person, but I wouldn't want to. I was getting help form someone who had installed a few cages before, so at some point I stopped following their instructions. They say to bolt the cage in to 2 pre-existing captive nuts (top seat belt bolts), then drill the rest of the (new) bolt holes. Do this. We bolted the cage in, marked the holes, removed the cage, punched and drilled the holes, put the cage back in and about half of the bolt holes were off enough to need re-drilled. The only exception to that is the back bars. Those are hard to get to from the top with a drill. The instructions say to drill one hole from the top, then bolt the bottom plate in and drill the rest of the holes using that as a template. I'm not sure if you can drill that 1 hole with the cage in or not. The drill was at an angle so I think the metal plate might interfere with drilling that hole. It also says to drill that first hole from the trunk. We also had everything in the trunk out installing shocks & springs, and I'm not sure you could get to that 1st hole from the trunk access? We did that 1st hole from the cabin access. You have to remove all of that anyways. Now that I think about it if you can find a stubby drill bit somewhere this would help with this 1st hole a lot. You have to cut some plastics for where the main hoop goes to the body. If you care about these being perfect cut less than what you think needs to be cut, try to put in and cut more if needed. Get some good silicone to seal up the new holes in the body you've made for a moisture seal. I put it 'into' the bolts/holes from the bottom before I installed everything (after I test fit everything), and also made a 'gasket' by putting a circle of it on the body around the bolts and around the holes on the back plates. I may still add some under-body sealant to these plates, but I didn't have any sitting around. Get the fitted cushion for the top bar, it's only $45. This thing comes closer to your head than you would think if you haven't seen one so I would put some padding there. It's a really nice piece, it looks 100% better than the typical padding. If you want to reinstall the cover for the top you have to make clearance for the back bars. You have to remove some stitching and somehow re-secure it so it doesn't keep unraveling. I used a bunch of staples. It was tight before and didn't flop around in the wind, but is very floppy now. :no: Again, remove less stitching than you think is needed, test fit and remove more if needed. This might make it fit a little tighter. http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/9776/img0289ry.jpg

He should have killed himself when it got bad.

Where are you going to put your bike?

It's all in the details. It was on month (May), Ecoboost V6 was 41% of sales, 3.7L V6 (non-turbo base engine) was another 14% with the remaining 45% going to the 2 V8's (5.0L and 6.2L). So the combined V6 sales outsold the combined V8 sales (55%>45%), but the Ecoboost V6 did not outsell V8's (41%<45%). Even the articles with the headline "Ecoboost V6 outsells V8" have the numbers I just quoted, which contradict that statement. Still, that's a big deal; V6's outselling V8's and the Eco-boost is probably the single biggest seller if you consider all 4 separately.

OMFG I wonder if you could make one of the 'digital' gauges from the 80's work with this. http://www.ford-taurus.org/taurusinfo/G1/86-89-digidash.jpg

I think there are modern vehicles with full LCD type gauge clusters? He would probably have to input via CAN though. That would be a PITA. There are probably also LCD type gauges that are specifically made for this... then those probably have inputs for they type of signal they display and that would defeat the purpose of this project. You could just do what that Ultra gauge does and have pages, and also have a piece of code for each gauge that says to display it by itself flashing red if it goes outside of some range. Can you do a bar graph on one of the lines?

:dumb:

You mean to tell me I'm still going through puberty? :masturboy:

If I'm reading my links correct that's also assuming he gets an ls1 motor & trans combo. If he happens to get the trans separate he could get either an lt1 or ls1 trans which would possibly have different ratios correct?

For the Miata? I don't know too much about them... but there were different ratios (trans) for different years so you might want to get one with longer (lower) gears. Might want to find a different (lower) rear diff ratio too (assuming the miata and current 4.3:1). I would just think with the torque and light chassis you won't need high gearing. http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/gearing.php http://www.tacreationsusa.com/manual_trans.htm Please note I don't know how accurate any of this info is, just did a Google search.

Parents negihbors just got their drive way done and it looks really nice. Their's is a long driveway (100yards+) and I don't even want to know how much that cost. They told my parents it didn't cost much more than concrete. But who knows how quality that work would be, and they have a friend who does that type of work so maybe they got a hookup. If it were me I'd get a quote for concrete (can you do stamped concrete on a driveway?) too, to see the price difference. I've heard you only have to spray some sealant on it every year, sounds like the least maintenance of the 3 options.