Trouble Maker

I get that, some cars are pretty 'bad' about this due to the drivetrain characteristics; poor AT/DBW programming. But whoever tuned it should have done their best tune around that. If you change anything that drastically typically the system isn't going to work nearly as well and can even cause some very bad issues. From a broad picture AYC, ABS, TCS, etc is a signal and systems problem. You have an input to start/stop and target (i.e. wheel speed and a target); wheel speed goes too high and TCS kicks on and targets some amount of slip. Based on some paramaters you have a feed forward, and based on difference/error from actual to target you have a feedback loop (typically PID or some variation of that). The PID and any feedback and feed forward components are based off of, in essence, to overall response of the mechanical system (engine, trans, tires, etc). When you change one of those components it changes the response of the system and the tuning no longer matches the system. If you change something a little bit, it might have a minor impact i.e. going from OEM tires to something similar but not exactly what was on the car stock. If you change something a ton it's not going to work very well i.e. change from OEM tires to slicks, or from a stock t/c to a big stall one. Think of it like your FI ECU; change the heads or cam on your car and the FI needs tuned differently or the system won't work.

Uninstalled all (of the devices I currently own) keyboard/mouse drivers, reconnected the new ones and let windows install the drivers. Just as before the function 100% fine, but they still don't work to wake up the PC from sleep. EDIT: Is there a way to uninstall drivers of non-connected devices? I obviously don't have the old Bluetooth receiver or keyboard and mouse drivers.

If you want to get a R&D vehicle dynamics engineer at an OEM to go bonkers for a little bit get them talking about customers putting non-OEM tires on their car. :lolguy:

Go back to what Mallard said; I don't know for sure but I think your car is a cable throttle. Traction control on those car is done by the brakes and sometimes spark/fuel cut. It's a crude way of implementing traction control but worked OK in early implementations. I have no idea what the were trying to do with 'shoving the pedal back at your foot'. Probably control throttle but I've never seen or heard of this before. I have heard the systems in f-bodies are pretty bad. Now we have DBW throttle and can send a request to the FI ECU for the exact amount of TQ that we want. I wasn't suggesting that you needed to have monitored it on every car, but just on some car so you understand what's actually going on rather than just a 'seat of the pants' judgement. I tune TCS for my job, and that's what Mallard did for his last job. 60% cut (40% original) or 60% of original? Are you taking about % of WOT or driver requested, what was driver requested? 40% of 5% (driver requested) might be a little, but 40% of 100% (driver requested) is a lot. I'm sure you know this, but cars get most of their torque in the first few tens of percent of throttle, so either way that's no surprise at all. At 'half throttle' cars will usually have 75%+ of the available torque. This is especially true if you are taking about snow or especially ice. I've been on low mu ice surfaces that required 35ft-lbs or less of TQ to keep good slip (very low throttle at this point). We can go around and around with this. It comes down to this; decent logic and tuning and you won't really notice traction control. As we get better with this technology and OEMs figure out exactly how they want the cars to perform it's getting really good. I'm sure you can still go find poorly tuned cars but they are getting to be fewer and fewer of them. You also can't judge what we can do now on 15 year old systems. The industry was in it's infancy at that point. Overall these systems make car far safer and better performing for a vast majority of drivers... I'm taking about 99.999% of people. Congratulations if you (general you, not talking about you specifically) are in the 0.0001%; pro tip; you're probably not, I know I'm not and I do this stuff for a living.

Can't figure this out for the life of me. MOBO is Zotac H55-ITX wifi. OS is Windows 7. The old wireless mouse/keyboard will wake from sleep (as will a wired keyboard), and the new one's won't. The old stuff is... older, Logitech MX3200. This is for the PC that's hooked up to the TV (we watch all of our TV on hulu, netflix, etc). So we keep the mouse on/near the couch to start up and control the PC, as a kind of remote. The Logitech never worked 100% if we were on the couch at our old place but worked most of the time if we put it on the coffee table. But at our new place we sit a little further away from the TV and it basically doesn't work. I got separately purchased Bluetooth stuff at first and they wouldn't wake from sleep. I read about some issues with waking from sleep on Bluetooth (uses too much power so it's always turned off during sleep) so I returned them and got a Gyration mouse/keyboard combo. Really digging the air motion stuff on the Gyration for this duty so I would really like to get this to work if at all possible. Still can't wake from sleep with the Gyration stuff. All devices (new and old mouse/keyboard) power management is set to wake from sleep. This setting doesn't affect the old mouse/keyboard ability to wake from sleep; they can wake from sleep either way. All USB root hubs have the option grayed out; I can't check 'let this device wake the system from sleep'. I unchecked 'let windows power this device off' for the root hub that the new keyboard/mouse is connected too. With the old mouse/keyboard this setting doesn't affect it's ability to wake from sleep; they can wake from sleep either way. All device managers show under details > power data. "PDCAP_WAKE_FROM_D2_SUPPORTED....Power State Mappings: S3->D2" There are no options in BIOS about USB/Keyboard/Mouse power (read something about this online). There are some ACPI options, but I'm a little lost at this point (don't know what they do). These are in the default settings and I'm thinking the things that are disabled are ones I don't need. I also read about some mobo USB ports not having 5V during sleep, or needing to set a jumper to supply 5V during sleep/standby. I used the exact same USB port for the new stuff as the old stuff; again old works and new doesn't. The little blue light on the receiver for the new stuff is on during sleep so it must be getting power.

Are you actually monitoring throttle to know this or is this just your 'seat of the pants feel'? A g-loss can happen for a lot of different reasons. Of course traction control is reducing throttle, that's the whole point. Non-the-less, the car shouldn't 'fall on it's face', assuming you are correctly interpreting what's happening and there is actually a g-loss occurring. That's bad tuning (maybe logic but probably not at this point) and shouldn't happen in any car, regardless of the vehicles price. Just a little more fuel for the fire; traction control shouldn't (won't) kick in until there is a certain amount of slip. You most likely already gave the car too much throttle for the given surface if starts. Way to go all of you pro drivers! :gabe::gabe:

Liked. And me and Mallard are 2 of the few people on this board who can really speak into this subject. :gabe: There are also less and less poorly tuned cars, or cars with poor implementation/logic as time goes on. But they do unfortunately still exist. It's a shame that someone get's a bad impression of new tech in a car and dismisses it forever. It's like saying that a new Corvette is slow based on your experience with one from 1985. Are most of the domestic cars with traction control made within the last 10 years (or so) DBW?

I'll be there working on ski patrol tonight. Get ahold of someone with us and have them get into contact with me over the radio and we can ride together for at least a little bit The are setting of fireworks at 9:30, might be worth getting up there a bit early to watch them. That's what I'm going to try and do.

I don't know why everyone keeps answering this guys questions when he is either too dumb to have the ability to listen or trolling the fuck out of everyone.

Found a video of macpyro trying out his new slackline http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6W1wmpuYoA&t=1m00s

Yeah, you normally you have to pay at least $13 to have that done.

Serves them right for flicking cigarette butts out of their window. :gabe:

Out of stock in that size. http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/977513/10002/-1 I can probably order it from somewhere online quicker than it will come in there, they show it shipping 1/2/13.

Just like the title says, does anyone know anywhere around town that stocks double banjo bolts; specifically 3/8"x24 Thanks!

Yup, I'm really interested to see what the big polling centers come out with. If Fox news taught us anything during the election it's that polling on a website is obviously skewed towards who visits that website. I'm sure if we took a poll here it would generally look further right than society as a whole. Another interesting point someone talking about polling on NPR had is that obviously there will be at least a bump for more gun control/assault weapons bans right now. But the real question in whether this might result in more gun control as a result of public opinion is that bump long term or not?

Wouldn't one of those BRZs with a turbo kit putting down, if I'm remembering right, 500whp be a 'stock B/E'. Not sure if trolling or just stupid. By the way, not everything needs shortened. 'stock B/E' has to be one of the dumbest shortenings I've seen in a while. So my conclusion is you are just stupid. Comparing 20 year old Japanese pony cars to a new BRZ as a cost comparison. Now talking about how a very highly modified truck would be faster than a stock BRZ. Can we just delete this thread, or at least everything after the first couple of post?

Again, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peJWxqEVXPY&t=0m27s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peJWxqEVXPY&t=0m27s

I might have liked that when I was 17. I'm talking about real cocktails, see the link above about the mule for reference. Anything that taste like candy is not in this category.

Something basic, maybe old school, but not so basic like a martini or rum and coke. I've had a few muels lately and really liked them. But we are going down to a cabin in Hocking Hill this weekend and taking ingredients for a cocktail and the wife doesn't like vodka.

Who want's to hack up the interior of their $100k car to go drag racing a few times?

:dumb:

Thanks for the qualifiers, looks like if I ever find myself in this predicament I will have to go with the cts-v.

Then you buy an S2000.