hpfiend

05-08 acura RL?

I enjoyed my time at http://www.buckeyestangs.com when i had my coupe...

Well I just got off the phone with TA performance asking then what the theory behind the girdle design was. By using a 1" thick flange instead of an 1/8" or so it is supposed to prevent the twisting of the center housing- the bolts are supposed to put light pressure on the main caps to prevent them from twisting as well and in addition to studs for the main cap bolts it just helps to keep everything in place. Sooo welded and braced axle tubes with arp main cap studs would render the chunk of aluminum useless but for a fill hole???? Gary is out of town till Monday but I will ask him then as well and report back.

Thanks guys! I was going to try and tig it with a nickel rod maybe but if he doesn't charge that much I am willing to pay a bit more for experience... firebush-what did you find out?

Hey all- Are these worth what they cost? I put one on my old fox but dunno if it was worth it other than the handly fill hole. Thinking about adding to a 31 spline 3.73 Trak-lok setup with carbon fiber clutch pak installed behind a th350 auto. I have not welded the axle tubes yet as I have not found a reliable source yet as to the proper method - I was going to try that maybe when I welded the 9" ends on once the car gets fast enough to require them.

Looking for a Ford Racing/Trickflow/JEGS/ Ford 8.8 rear end cover with the main cap supports and fill/inspection plug. Anyone have one?

+1 GLWS however

You are right to consider selling it now... clean bills of health such as this are rare.

What do you guys use? I have a craftsman 3/8" 50' setup that will not unwind- well it unwinds but always coils up on itself when I am trying to use it off the reel... it is shiny plastic looking but not quite as hard as pvc- I got some short sections of red rubber that doesn't hold a shape but I also dont have it on a reel... the black rubber line my dad has gets all over your hands... harbor freight has a 50' 3/8" rubberish looking set for 18 bucks--

lol

NM found it at NAPA

Hey all- Anyone know where to get or at least what they are called? They plug on to coolant temperature sending units typically... they are rubber elbows sort of like a spark plug boot but have about 1/8" diameter friction-fit push on electrical connector inside? Thanks!

Thanks for the replies! This setup used to be dead head but now it is return style... Here is a picture of the lines from the regulator and cool can and the fuel pump. The lines to the fuel cell are bigger and the ones on the sides of the carb are a little smaller if I remember correctly... (I took this picture to show the lower alternator bracket I had to create/modify for the new alt but it should work) http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj162/hpfiend/Gremlin/Receivers010.jpg It is a mechanical pump and it is currently set at 8 psi which seems really high to me?? I will add some ice next time we are at the strip and see if it does anything for this combo... we are wanting to really crank the timing as we added a little base by changing the vacuum advance around and it made a big difference in SOTP driving-

http://www.cellswapper.com/

Hey guys- The gremlin has can with coils in it where the fuel runs through it- The previous owner said he put ice in there for a performance increase... I haven't tried yet- is there anything to this? Thanks, Andrew

My dad's automatic C6 has a noticeable delay that he does not like. My c5z has a very subtle one. Without fly by wire however, the advanced torque management and traction control scenarios would not be possible which in part led to the awesomeness of the 2010 ZR1 that can hook 638 hp on street tires. If they could figure out an algorithym (sp) safely to average/ignore subtle throttle inputs so when you are cruising on the freeway and your throttle moves in and out slowly with the normal bumps on the road and the fact that your foot is not rigidly attached fuel consumption could be substantially decreased.

How about a scooby STI swapped porsche 914? http://www.renegadehybrids.com/

Isn't that what a cayman is?

can u change the angle on a cut-off or band saw for notching or u guys using a drill press and notching jig? thanks for the recs btw

Hey all- I have come to the point where using a circular saw/sawzall to cut round and square steel stock and plate has gotten old and though I want a plasma cutter it wont do the square cuts I want without some sort of a jig.. I would also like to be able to do angles to notch tubing... would rather buy once than buy junk twice. What are you all using? My dad does have a clarke 10" mitre chop saw for wood that is average at best but I did the crown moulding and a lot of the baseboards in my house with so far- maybe put a steel abrasive blade in that but I am not crazy about that saw- sort of imprecise movement and you can't go beyond 45degrees in tilt.

Ok guys- Here is the setup: 2700lb chassis th350 automatic 355 small block chevy with low compression (dished pistons) MSD billet distributor with vacuum and mechanical advance holley hp 750 double pumper 4bbl carb Pointer doesn't have numbers that I can read- is each point on the triangles a degree? With vacuum line from distributor- it reads max before tdc. Any higher and it is off the pointer. I put the vacuum line on a manifold vacuum source instead of port vacuum (where it was) and it bumped it up beyond the pointer. I drove it and it felt like a whole new car- smokes the tires at will now and it was soggy before. With the combination of a bigger shooter went from 14.0 to 13.2 both at 95. Holley says I don't want port vacuum I want manifold vacuum and that I should set the base timing higher. I could not get a vacuum indication at all on the port on the side of the metering block at idle and revving in park - and why would I want vacuum advance to coincide with mechanical advance shouldn't they work at opposite parts of the spectrum? The way I have it I know as the throttle goes down I lose the off idle vacuum timing and then at some rpm set by the springs the mechanical advance is supposed to kick in. so I should have the same timing across the board maybe a little more up top depending on the bushings in the distributor... Do I just crank it until it pings and then bring it back or crank it on 89 and then run 93? It matters how hot/humid it is outside doesn't it? I don't hear it pinging at high rpm/wot now but it's so loud maybe I wont hear it? which raises the second question- how do you know how much mechanical advance to run or total timing you can get away with? Thanks! BTW our light does not have any numbers on it so how do you know how much you are running when you are beyond the gauge? Do they sell them with numbers or is that what an innovate is for?

Where does she work? I will need a cut here in a few weeks...

We headed to MCIR on Friday night after work- happened to run into Rob Lasota and his dad which was a nice surprise! Shifting at about 5500 in first and crossing the lights just after the shift light indicates 5500 in second it ran a best of 13.20 @ 95? the slip says 101 mph but it ran 95 all night long and ran a 13.22 @95 the run before. The 60' on the 13.20 run was a 1.82 but I don't think about a tenth in the 60' would equal 6 more mph and only 2 hundreths faster. We put the 10.5" cheater slicks on and found there to be two sets of spacers behind the street rims. We put the welds on without any spacers and there is about another 3/4" to an inch on each side to the fenders now if bigger tires are needed. There is no stall in this car (contrary to the PO) or its not working if thats possible as we could not hold it back beyond 1500 rpm as my dad redlighted twice trying to launch it harder. With this moderate launch and warming the tires a bit it dead hooks on one sticky tire. It is amazing what a little vacuum advance and carb tuning will do. We think if shifted at 5900 (rev limiter pill at 6000 now) in first and pushed the timing to detonation and then a touch back (on a hot day- it has dished pistons in it) we may break into the 12s as it sits. We still need to mess with the shooters and it will still randomly not want to start unless you turn the key about 10 times.. the solenoid is probably on the way out as it is soo close to the headers... we need to pull the carb off and see whats in it as when we called holley they suggest blocking the rear powervalve so we will play around with that next.

Thanks for all of the comments everyone! Well managed to weld up the hitch adapters and snap a few pictures- still need to throw some paint at them. I also finished fabricating the new alternator bracket but no pictures of that yet. It should charge itself now and be more easily brought home should it break down again. http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj162/hpfiend/Gremlin/Receivers001.jpg http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj162/hpfiend/Gremlin/Receivers002.jpg Also mounted an insulated distribution block to run the accessories off of with a larger source off the starter and wrapped some wires with convoluted tubing for protection. We checked the timing and it appears the base timing has been set at max advance according to the pointer. The problem as mentioned before was that the vacuum advance for the distributor was pulled off of a venturi vacuum source instead of manifold vacuum. We teed it in to the proper source off of the carb and it was a completely different animal. Low speed torque was increased immensely. It can smoke the tire (no lsd yet) in third now. No signs of detonation on 93 octane. We also installed the 40 accelerator pump shooters to replace the 31s that were in there- this resolved about 95% of the major throttle induced hesitation. Off to the track.

Thanks for the tips! I don't know what I was intending to say by extending my iso range... unfortunately my Rebel XS can only do ISO 1600. I meant that at an f-stop of 1.8 I need to go all the way out to 1600 to get a proper exposure (according to the gauge) using flash compensation of -1 2/3 with 1/60 shutter speed at the slowest so I wouldn't get shake. I will upload some here soon and check out the websites! All portrtaits so a shallow DOF is fine running wide open. I haven't printed many shots but always heard that 8x10s at 1600 are tough.