hpfiend

I'll check with the wife- what time are you thinking saturday?

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This is an interesting thread- good to see some people that care- Some of you should obviously work in the political arena if you do not already.

Did you sell your vette?

Found this-- If you try to START it and then let it come back to ON position then the pump should stay running. Try and go from off, one position to ON without trying to START it and see what happens... Have you checked the connections at, underneath, around this diagnostic box which you installed the jumper in to set the timing? I am thinking you still have a bad ground connection somewhere or a skinned wire in this circuit that caused the fuel injection fuse to blow and by messing with this box to set the timing you either broke the wire or loosened it- Also check this common ground connection they refer to behind the brake booster... Did you do the AFM cleaning procedure? ---------------------------------------------------------------- The 1990 - 1993 Miatas have a Circuit Opening Relay which powers the fuel pump. It works like this: When you turn the ignition key to the START position, Coil #1 of the two coils in the COR is powered up, which closes the relay contacts and feeds +12 volts to the fuel pump, starting the pump. When you let the key back into the ON position after the engine catches, Coil #1 is de-powered, and Coil #2 keeps the relay contacts closed IF the ground return side of the coil actually reaches a chassis ground point. The ground return side is wired (on a light green wire) to the Air Flow Meter. Inside the AFM is a set of contacts that are open if the swinging door is closed (no air flow) and closed if the door is open (caused by air flow). The light green wire goes to one of the contacts, and the other contact is connected to a black wire running back from the AFM to the group of grounds under your brake booster. If the ground connection under the brake booster is dirty or corroded, the engine will start and run for about 2-3 seconds, and then die from lack of fuel pressure. Same thing if there is an open circuit anywhere between Coil #2 of the COR and that chassis ground point. Could be a bad COR, could be a bad connection at the AFM, could be a bad set of contacts inside the AFM. Be VERY careful to follow this procedure if you remove the AFM connector!! __________________

oops double post.

Cool idea- I plan to attend a few of these for sure! I like that it is realistic with busy schedules... question along the same line though- Will I be ridiculed if I haven't washed my car for weeks? I have been to events where the guys get up at some insane hour, go over the car, and then as they arrive at the event actually use no water quick shine to clear the road dust that may have accumulated on their headlights on the drive over... I am one of those enthusiasts that enjoys the mechanical driving experience more than its polish and and as long as the water still beads when it rains I am good until I can get enough time to shine it again. Damn brake dust on these aggressive pads though.... wow. The website looks good! You may want to put some sort of note on there though to tell people not to screw around so that the management of these establishments will not withdraw their permissions... especially since it is open to everyone.

Cool- thanks guys!

Hey all- found this on craigslist today- basically a cbr F4i with a wrecked motor, no title. http://columbus.craigslist.org/mcy/1644269055.html

well that would surely do it- how'd you discover that? I am surprised that sort of problem would just appear after blowing an injector fuse unless goodyear put it off a few teeth for shall we say "repeat business" tsk tsk tsk...

Glad to have been of assistance so far! If I understand correctly it won't start now and you have zero fuel pressure? What's this about a jumper that is required to be installed? Check that fuel injection fuse again... keep us posted on your progress with it... btw how was the 21st? Hope you survived it- I know mine was pretty intense...

How has your gas mileage been? strong fuel smell? I was thinking about this some more and it occurred to me that it sounds like one of your injectors is sticking open at high rpms- an a/f gauge will show lean btw if you are dumping lots of unburnt fuel in a misfire condition as the oxygen is not being used up in combustion. This would also explain the hanging rpms if that injector is staying stuck open after a high rpm surge... and MAY explain the main injector fuse failing but that is a 30 amp fuse so it sounds like you had a dead short somewhere (which may have cooked something else in the process)... have you checked the grounds to the injector harness? Have you checked the connections underneath the box where the fuel injection fuse is located? Have you tried any lucas or gumout fuel treatment? If the injectors aren't too tough to access you may buy one at NAPA and start switching them out one by one but I would get a couple of extra o-rings as they tend to tear if they have been in there a while.. keep us posted on the afm cleaning and vacuum leak checks- I am thinking one of those two is your idle problem. Also let us know about the ecm swap and timing light results but I am thinking you have too much fuel for some reason...

edited above post.

Ok- It sounds sort of like the timing advance mechanism is off- is that what the cam angle sensor that needs adjusted does? Okay- really difficult to make out those plug pictures- can you adjust your shutter speed faster? What plugs are those anyhow? Are they factory heat range? Where did you get them? The "throttle damping valve" you mention may cause the 30-40 second delay in down-revving.. where is it located? How does it work? Those digital A/F gauges that tie into the 02 sensor wire are very unreliable... does it have an exhaust probe at all? A boost gauge should work as a vacuum gauge as long as there is enough room to show about 30 inches of vacuum on the other side of zero... Hook this up and see what the idle vacuum looks like and then with a stabilized idle... my mustang that had an intake manifold leak that showed 12-13 inches when it should have been 19 or so with the cam I had... but you will have to ask miata people what it should be... I think a 30.00 fuel pressure gauge and some line/fittings so you can tape to the windshield would be money well spent.. a hydraulics store should have more than you need for cheap. Can you stabilize the idle while under the hood by manually twisting the throttle body pivot while you look at the timing/spark on each cylinder? Speaking of WHICH- Have you checked your linkage at the throttle body to see if it isn't sticking or hanging up when you push the throttle beyond 1/4? If it is slow to respond to pedal input due to grime this may also explain the hanging idle- not sure why you replaced the TPS? Any computer code? Is there any fresh rtv on the intake manifold mating surfaces? When the engine is running, spray some carb cleaner near vacuum lines and intake manifold mating surfaces block to lower, lower to upper, tb to upper etc... and listen for a change in idle... I would read this and set the cam angle sensor properly... http://www.miata.net/garage/ignition.html Found this online also: When the AirFlowMeter signal is erratic, it can really play hell with an Emanage because the erratic signal must be constantly read and interpolated, using up processor time. If the brushes are loose against the contact strip, the voltage can drop intermittantly to -0- causing a flood of fuel with or without Emanage being used. The black pad on top of the AFM can be removed by carving out the sealant around it and lifting it out. It is better to do this on a table with good lighting than in the car, but if readily accessable in the car, may be done there. You also need access to the flapper door to move it back and forth. Inside, there is a wiper brush that moves along a contact strip as the flapper door is moved. These contacts can be cleaned with alcohol. Then, there is a hex head screw holding the wiper assembly on the shaft that turns with the flapper door. This screw can be loosened and the whole assembly pushed down the shaft so that the brushes push harder against the contact strip. Tighten the screw, replace the black pad and fill in to re-seal it with either hot glue or rubber cement. Finally: I would check the wiring to your fuel pump to see if it hasn't been hacked- apparently a lot of guys mess with it with some black box deal and tie into the air bag fuse and solder pins together to trick it into fueling more- why did you have to put another engine in it? was the chassis turbocharged before and the previous owner blew the engine? Buy a factory service manual DVD should be cheap online- check the fuel volume from their test procedure...

Are you using one of those digital cyberdyne A/F gauges? What happens when you pull the vacuum line off the regulator? Get an inductive timing light and put it on each spark plug wire to check for spark unless the wires are very poorly separated.

damn! How did you capture those? Did you fire them into jello or something like on csi? Do all hollowpoints spread like that upon hitting anything semi-solid? Does HST stand for hydrashock? I wanted to get those but blackwing didn't have them in stock- speaking of which it took me about 8 months lately just to find a 100 round box of 9mm 115gr winchesters for target practice! insane!

Thanks that was my concern!--- I have some hornady TAP and some other winchester self defense ammo that cinergi recommended to me when he was at blackwing that seem to fire a little better than the target rounds I normally play with. I have them set up alternating in my high-cap magazine. They definitely look meaner!

Hey all- I was wondering what would be involved, if possible- to change my glock to a a .45 from 9mm? Right now I am thinking a new barrel, magazine, and somehow opening up the hole in the slide part? Will that cost as much as a new gun? I originally bought it in 9mm as my wife was intimidated by the recoil of the 45.. but she never shoots it anyhow and I am intrigued with the one shot ballistic shock of the .45 for self defense purposes... I don't remember for sure now but I don't think she had problems with holding it too loose and not cycling the action with the one we were shooting- I just think she thought it was uncomfortable. I have hornady TAP hollowpoints and am a decent shot (under non-duress situations). Am I being paranoid?

diet is 80% workouts 20%. That said, nice work! FWIW The only time I really made notable progress was when I focused more on my eating than the workouts- of course that is harder to say then do as that requires a life commitment and a workout is 20min to an hour per day or a few days a week. Focusing on eating, I put on 25 lbs of muscle on my upper body and doubled my bench in about 3.5 months (120-145 lbs), I didn't even work out my lower body or back as I was a dumb kid back then. Unfortunately, also being a dumb kid, I blew my shoulder screwing around punching a bag and couldn't workout for months after that and lost it all... I have been trying pretty seriously to get it back since my son has been born as I would like to be a good role model but it has been tough thus far!- excuses excuses BTW out of curiosity Farkas, what are you eating to consume 330g of protein per day and how many meals? I would be lucky to hit just over .5 g per lb these days and I am a lightweight (120 lbs).. and that is with a 37g (IIRC) metrx shake after workout with breakfast, 11g protein bar at 10, pb, tuna or egg salad for lunch, 11g protein bar at 3, and a large dinner. I need to get back with the hardboiled eggs with breakfast or at one of the snacks- I eat with my wife for breakfast and dinner so those are rarely super protein heavy but we do eat beans in salads a lot for dinner- I also need to work on cooking chicken that doesn't taste birdy or dry for dinner or fish that I can enjoy but most attempts have failed thus far. there is a guy on here bottlefedfocus is his screen name- he really knows what he is talking about IMO.

Noone is going to help you until you follow their recommendations first. You can play the guessing game by replacing parts haphazardly but that gets expensive fast and rarely fixes the problem. Did you pull the pre-cat o2? Did you pull the plugs and take pictures? Did you get a long bolt or stethoscope and listen for ticking at each injector? Did you put a fuel pressure gauge on it, tape it to the windshield and see what happens when it breaks up? Pull a plug wire one a time at idle? Did you pull the vacuum line off the fpr? Did you set the idle the proper way with a service manual or at least how it is supposed to be done on a miata? Do you really want to fix this problem or just complain about it?

Interesting... What kind of fastener are you using it that frequently that you split it 6 times? This is a really good data point...

Well they didn't have the 11 piece sets in metric in stock but they had the 13 piece sets on sale for 19.99 and the molded box was better. I haven't used them yet but they look stout. My only complaint is that the sizes are printed on them rather than stamped, so I am sure they will wear off and I will have to be careful not to mix up the SAE and metrics... But you really can't complain for 26 deep wall 1/2" impacts with molded boxes for just over 40.00 including tax!

Hard to tell from the pictures but those do look like mild steel- They look pretty good though- anyone who has ever tried to make a header can appreciate that... I hope he is going to form, pinch, and weld the seams on inside of those pipes to make a cross before he welds the collectors on as they look like the outsides have already been welded and one if not two of the pipes looks too short as they are supposed to end up flush before going into the collector- Did you use a gasket? That made a bigger difference than I would have guessed when we made a set for the 924. How is plug access and wire clearance?

Don't just throw all the parts in containers, pop them through cardboard and mark where they came off the engine so you put them back in the same place... they may look identical but with valvetrains for example they have wear patterns that must match.