BIG SHAFE

Did I read that right, stock crank?

Agreed.

Same here. Oh well.

Thanks. Do you have the armrest for the console and is it black too?

Do you have the drivers side door panel peice which holds window/lock buttons?

I've had it about a year and a half, best investment for entertainment I've ever made. In that time I still only listen to 4 channels, just because I can't get enough of them, even though there are soo many. Once you listen to it you can't go back to regular radio. I got a separate tuner the plugs into the CD changer port (aftermarket CD player) so I can switch it real quick between cars. Then I listen online in the house/work. Have you created your online account? With a regular unit subscription you can listen online to most of the channels (maybe they will have NASCAR stuff online?). Thats what I do at work, I don't miss a minute of Howard or Bubba.

I listen to that album at least 1-2 times per week, my favorite ever. Right now I'm listening to a local (local to me) band on myspace. Good rock I think. Web site if anyone is interested: http://www.myspace.com/dazend

Hmmm LT1 now??? Interesting.

I second Cummings for better engine. But working at a clutch manfacturer for Dodge Diesels I know there was one model manual transmisson to stay away from, early-mid '00. I wanna say it was a Getrag trans, not positive. Would hardly hold stock torque, let alone any upgrades. I can't remember the site but there is a Dodge forum with good info on it. If you want more info I prolly could find it. After Berto, I would probably be able to help almost as much since I was in the buisness for a while. Specifically clutches and flywheel dampers for the Dodges.

I dunno about that, too many open recievers. Our secondary coverage sucked. And how many damn missed tackles were there? Hardly did they go down on first contact. 1. Smith played terrible, had time to throw on most plays but didn't get rid of it. Four to five seconds is all you can ask for an offensive line. On a three step drop, you get rid of it or an end will get you every time, period. Don't hold the ball and trot around. 2. Run the fucking ball. Way too much passing, especially when passing lanes are covered. 3. Defense got fucked for ball placement, but damn tackling and pass coverage sucked.

Because guys give up their right for sex. End of story.

You make a good point as far as buildup, but what about just getting the ring and pinion done? I'm not in the know for rear ends, but isn't the ring/pinion failure the most common failure mode? (my gut assumption) Joe, I figure you would have a good idea since you are a mod on CamaroZ28.com, what is the most common failure in the 10 bolt, 7.5" rear end? I don't know, but lets say it is ring/pinion failure is the most common, someone who can't afford a 12 bolt/9" immediately but can afford this new Mikronite process might jump on this. I would for the limited amount of drag racing/hard launching that I do with the sub 500 hp level I will be at for a long time.

You have to understand the finish on any metal, especially in more soild objects like gears, is where failure starts. If you can have a surface finish that is good past one-millionth of an inch, you can have much higher stress levels. Obviously a more fine finish will produce much less friciton, but it's much more beneficial in the stress arena. The other thing is, although I'm sure there is a point you will need to upgrade axles for XXX amount of power, but stresses are much higher in gears due to point loading compared to axles, which have a much larger surface for loading. I'd be willing to bet that if you could get that process done for both the gears and axles, you wouldn't need to upgrade to a 12 bolt or 9". Although I'm no material scientist, I have worked with a metallurgist and know a good amount on metal overloading/fatigue failure. So I think I have some credibility in this area, but hopefully someone else who know's more can chime in.

I dunno, I may have you beat. I don't live in Columbus and joined a couple months after it started. Member #242

I live up here close to Orrville but I don't have any plans to drive to Columbus.

Well since you've had no offers, the most I have to deal with is $2k. How recent is all the repair work?

Its opposite for intake lengths. Shrot lengths = high rpm, long lengths = low rpm. Although exhaust lengths have less effect for rpm tuning than exhaust type, i.e 4-2-1 or 4-1 combos.

I'm 6'4" and weigh more than you and have plenty of room in my Camaro. The GTO I got in at one of the NAIAS's wasn't much if any bigger.

Since people are listing parents heights, I think I have the most odd parent heights. Mom - 5'1" Dad - 6'8" Again I'm 6'4"

6'4"

Posted on: http://www.neofb.com/ http://www.f-bodyhideout.com http://www.corvetteforum.com/ http://www.rubbercityracing.com/

Ok, so after trying to get in and look through the BIOS settings it will not boot up. When I turn on the power supply all the lights and fans come on but hitting the on button will not boot it.

The heatsink has some type of coating on it that mated right on to the processor. The processor can't be overheating. The heat sink is still cool to the touch when it shuts off. Plus the fan on it is working just fine. How do I verify te right FSB (bus speed?) and clock speed are right? I think I can find it in the BIOS but its hard to get it to stay on long enough to save the changes. I also reset the BIOS jumper, hoping it would clear anything, but it didn't seem to help.

Update: I found out this motherboard has chassis intrusion on it, but I have the case cover on that side and it seems to be disabled in the BIOS. Still turns off when it feels like it.

Ok, dumbass me connected the leads wrong. I got it to boot up but it keeps turning itself off. I even got halfway into windows once, but it keeps turning itself off. Then I can't reboot for about a minute, press the button lights come on for a sec then beeps and turns off. Its weird.