BIG SHAFE

http://gozips.uakron.edu/~mas4/disc.jpg Here it a cross section of a disc, which side is the flywheel side (right/left) on how you installed it.

Not sure, trying to find out. Let put some pics together.

I kinda doubt it, the diaphram spring will should be out side the clutch cover or just above the clutch cover.

http://gozips.uakron.edu/~mas4/clutch.jpg The yellow arrows point to the diaphram spring. It is what engages and disengages the disc. The yellow springs are call sensor springs that provide forward adjustment.

http://pic14.picturetrail.com/VOL564/772744/5344526/173058391.jpg I can't tell, is the flat side of the disc towards the camera or on the flywheel. By that I mean the black facing material being almost flat with the retainer plate it is attatched to.

Yup, you are gonna run into problems again. The diaphram spring looks wrong, it shouldn't be pressed in that far. That it what it should look like when you push in the clutch not when its sitting there with no load on it. Something isnt right.

Is this what it looked like when fully bolted down and ready for the tranny?

The same will happen again, it will foward adjust and wont hold the torque like before or you wont be able to disengage.

No its not good, it means that as soon as the clutch forward adjusts for wear you wont be able to disengage the clutch.

I predict you run into the same problem again, especially since it engages only an inch from the floor. Next time get an aftermarket that isn't self adjusting.

I don't think all LS2 clutches are DMF's, like in the GTO's. I think the LS2 and LS7 clutch are the same part number the only difference is the disc. I forget now, its been so long. But ya, that bitch is really forward adjusted. Where are you making your shifts at (rpm's)? The LS7 has problems with forward adjusting at the higher rpm's, a la 7000 rpm range.

I'm sure this man knows more than me, but when I get real bad streaking even when using Z6 it just moves it around I go ahead an wash it with Z7. After about 3 coats, I wash and then putting more coats on is a breeze. Also, in my exeprience if you have Z8 and Z6, use Z6 with streaks. Z8 made it worse for me. I try to go thinner and thinner the more coats I put on, never thought about using an orbital. I may have to try that. :thumbup: Looks great Chris.

Look at using Zaino's ZPC compound with an orbital, I hear it does wonders. I have yet only used it by hand, orbital takes much less time. Another good thing about Zaino is it is a great protectant against weather, salt, etc. I put about 4-6 coats on last year and it lasted all through the winter no problem. Just another thought as to why it is a good idea to get, not just for looks but protection.

I think you need a heavy dose of the :chill:

+1 Two of my friends would be dead if they would have had their seatbelts on, although I know that stats would indicate otherwise. I always wear mine, but you never know if it will save you or kill you.

+1 ????

More info on the performance plan? Sounds interesting.

I can definitly tell the difference between a Pioneer and an Eclipse/Alpine/Kenwood. When I went shopping for a head unit for the SS I went with a Kenwood Excelon KDC-X789 (Here is the new model X790). The Excelon IMO is right up there with Eclipse and Alpine. You can get great deals on Ebay, where I got mine. It was especially nice for me, the head unit I got was a year old model that had the same features as the new model. I think the new model had a nicer display but I cut $150+ off the price by getting the older model. They look the same and function almost exactly the same. Plus it was Sirius ready (since I know you have it) and I happened to have a tuner laying around for a Kenwood. Which is nice having all the controls for Radio, CD, and Sirius all in the head unit. You can also control an HD radio tuner and Sirius tuner through the head unit (which I imagine is commonplace in most head units). Not to mention the right/left audio inputs for MP3 players.

I've used it by hand, which is good for very small scratches/swirl marks but it needs to be used with an orbital for complete removal. I plan on getting an orbital to try it on. Doing it by hand is very tiring, but it does a great job.

Word, first thing when diagnosing(sp?) injectors grab a voltmeter and check if the injectors are getting power. Then go from there, fuses/wires/etc.

Also, DO NOT call it an 86.

Bullshit? I have neither dealt with IPS nor know any of them personally, but I hear nothing but praise from people on this board in the past year. I know from my experience from on this board (4+ years) if people have a problem with a product/service they don't hesitate to share. So if what they put out is bullshit, where is the negative feedback? Maybe I missed it somewhere. This may be somewhat true, conflict brings lots of attention, especially on this board. But, after so long everyone gets sick of it. More and more people are posting that they are tired of it, as am I. Of course no one really cares about hit/post rates, its not a competition to be the best BOARD EVAR!!! Also, the board wasn't dead there is always activity on here daily.

Same here, I rocked that for a while.

What is an average brake line pressure a system might see, I have no clue what it would be. Say under full pedal travel. Thanks

Anyone have some hints for 16?