BIG SHAFE

Anyone have some idea? I don't know where to look next.

Also, from the 2 harnesses that come out of the power supply. The larger one I found has 2 leads when the computer is plugged in but not on. A green wire and a black wire both have 5V. The other 4 wire harness has no leads.

I have recently bought a bare bones deal from TigerDirect.com (couple months ago). I tried putting it together when I first got it but it wouldn't work at all. I finally have some time now to go back and try to figure whats wrong with it. After I put it together it wouldn't seem to boot to the BIOS. Pressing the on or reset buttons had no effect. The only thing that would happen once you plug into outlet, a small green light would come on and the CPU fan would run. I also found out when I put the motherboard in I forgot to put in the standoffs to screw the motherboard into. So some of the solder was touching the case. I just assumed I fried the motherboard and bought another one, but this didn't fix the problem. I'm also not sure on the small plugs that go on the mother board. The names on the plugs differ from that of the ones listed on the motherboard sheet. Maybe I am not matching the right ones up? Here is a list of the plugs for things built into the case (usb/hd led/etc.): Group 1: "power sw", white and blue wires into 2 prong female plug Group 2: "usb", 7 wires into an 8 prong female plug Group 3: "reset sw", white and blue wires into 2 prong female plug "power led -", white wire into 1 prong female plug "power led +", green wire into 1 prong female plug "hdd led", white and red wires into 2 prong female plug Group 4: "mic bias", yellow wire into 1 prong female plug "speaker outl", white wire into 1 prong female plug "speaker outr", turqoise wire into 1 prong female plug "mic in", pink wire into 1 prong female plug "ground", black wire into 1 prong female plug "Return L", blue wire into 1 prong female plug "Return R", gray wire into 1 prong female plug Here is a link for the motherboard, for which you can see the prongs explained. Motherboard Info I'm going to retry and match up the plugs again. This is the second time I have put a computer together, before I took a guess at a motherboard going bad, got another one and it fixed the problem. So there might be little things I don't know about, so feel free to point anything you think is obvious that I may have missed. Links: CPU Motherboard Power Supply Memory Case

Coming from a guy with a Ranger?

Wow, if you were here 2 years ago then you know this type of posting is commonplace. Heaven forbid if we all take the internet so serious. Welcome, I've been to the forum but at the time coltboy was on his soapbox so I was able to catch most of it here. :woowoo: I've been looking forward to going to a dyno day, but problems keep popping up for me.

Is it a really strong smell? After I took off the cats for headers/y-pipe on my car I noticed it smelled much more rich, until it went into closed loop.

I picked up the SS in North Carolina. My dad and I drove down. I got about 5 hours sleep, left around 7 AM got back around 12 AM. Not to mention it was at a Ferrari/Maserati/Austin Martin/etc. dealer. I missed seeing an Enzo by a day and had a blast looking at cars worth more than my life. BEST DRIVE EVER. If it's your dream car go get it. It's probably cheaper to take Greyhound, but with a one way flight you could be back in just over a day. Good Luck

Most of his shit is hard to spot but this was somewhat easy to see. He slips the coin down the collar of his shirt and that skin is way fake.

Heres the website: http://www.bailey-eng.com/LTCC.html To order I e-mailed Bob Bailey: turbobob@bailey-eng.com Let me know if you need anything else.

How bad is the oil leak?

Where are you located? 2 or 4 door? a/c work?

Yes there are: MSD, Summit Brand, Accel, and of course GM. There might be more but I'm not positive. FYI: Be careful though, some are just cap and rotor replacements and others include the sensor and degree wheel. Personally I went and did the LTCC (LT1 Coil per Cylinder) conversion. This converts to an 8 coil ignition system. This system uses the sensor of the optispark but keeps the high voltage out of the opti. This greatly prolongs the life of the opti and you can completely seal off the opti so no debris/moisture can get in. This kit also has added features like a couple different timing retard maps for nitrous and a user selectable rev limiter. The LTCC kit is $400 plus you have to get 8 LS1 coils (can be had cheaply). I went with it because of the infamous high rpm miss known on LT1's, that I had (even with the 96+ vented style opti). After the install, I could feel the difference, much better fuel combustionn, the rpm's could pull much higher, and better gas mileage. Took me about 2 full days to do, but I am novice/beginner for working on cars. The hardest part was actually just getting plug wires off and on, and routing everything. The wiring is very easy and straight forward. If you want more info on it, I can get you all you need.

Check the opti and make sure it is in good condition and it's prolly not a bad idea to replace the waterpump since you have the engine out. Will save you some time and hassle down the road.

I think Vida met her match. B.S. that a god doesn't exist, this is proof!

I have a P1543 DTC on the SS. I know that it is listed as a "a/c system performance", is this just a general a/c problem or does this refer to something specific? The a/c doesn't blow any cold air, but the a/c clutch engages, any ideas? Thanks.

I would be careful with milling, the bike engines I have seen dont have any room for this, the valves are already at their limit for clearing the piston. Port work would help a lot. Turbo + Megasquirt would be fairly easy for huge power.

Well if you lived in Akron and were looking for pizza that night you might have had a chance. Its sad and scary to see people stand around and not do anything.

Wideband O2??

Bike engine for a couple reasons: 1.) Have engine and transmission integrated, one big box that includes engine and trans, less work. 2.) Can run much higher compression. We (U of Akron Formula 1 Team) are running a older model Kawi 600 (ZX-6R Model I think) with a compression ratio at 13.7:1 with 94 Oct. Never detonated or blown up on 200+ engine dyno pulls (likes timing 40-45 degrees for full throttle upper rpm's) so you might not even need race gas. Although we are at our compression ratio limits due to valve/piston clearence. 3.) Power - we have hit around 70 hp and 35 lb-ft of torque through a restrictor in a almost 10 year old model 600cc with much heavier internals than newer bikes. Even with the restrictor we can hit 13K rpm's. A newer bike engine with better components in a 1000cc engine 180 hp would be a breeze along with sky high rev's. Add a turbo, the only word needed is insane. 4.) Get yourself a nice differential, this will take care of your low end torque worries (we have run from 3.73 to 4.11 in our Zexel Torsen (sp?)). We use such a step gear that we don't use first gear because: a) traction useless (even with Motec's Traction control) and b) quicker shifting by not passing through neutral (1-2).

My moms beetle is having some problems. When starting the car, it is very hard to start. You have to give it gas to get started. I have a feeling this problem stems from another which the inability to pull the car out of park even when pressing the brake, the solenoid/linkage is not disengaging. The only way to get it out of gear is to turn the key inbetween the lock and power position (no ignition/dash lights on). Also, a ESC light is on. It seems as if the computer has put itself in a "limp home" mode. I don't have a scanner yet, but working on borrowing one to take a look. If anyone can point me to a write up on the computer diagnostics that would be great. Also, before this started the rear brakes were in bad shape of needing to be redone. This wasn't done in time and the rotor/brake ate up a caliper. This was taken care of just before the new problem started. Thanks for any help.

This could be the best CR video ever, if shot. :woowoo:

Ok, hopefully I can help. It looks like you did everything ok. Phil if you see this, doesn't the diaphram spring look loaded when it should be in a free state or look forward adjusted even when it isn't?

Yup, although technically it is flywheel-clutch disc-clutch. How big is the file?

Right, just making sure. More pics will help.

That will help, mattashaffer@hotmail.com