20G TSi

If you're going to compare, compare correctly. 1.3 = 2.6L piston motor. I ran my supercharged 302 lean for a year before I broke a compression ring and mangled the piston crown.

I have a chance to pick up a very nice condition/arizona 1979 Regal S-type (I think its its "s" type). Its a 4 barrel carb'd 3.8L turbo.... Is $700 a good price for a good running car that needs tranny work? Are these things as capable as the T-type and GN's? TIA for the info- Jason

my home made ball and spring (granted it took a month to get the spring right) doesnt spike and doesnt vary more than +/- 1psi at any atmosphereic pressure (weather changes)...

my opinion is if you put the blower on without all (and I DO mean all) supporting mods, you'll have broken rings in the #8 cyl. save the money, go through the motor and buy a set of aluminum heads... and nickel and dime the supporting mods and get the blower next year

Message deleted due to inappropriate content. -management [ 29. January 2003, 08:07 PM: Message edited by: No Soup for You ]

Message deleted due to inappropriate content. -management [ 29. January 2003, 08:06 PM: Message edited by: No Soup for You ]

soo much for not turning this into a flame fest, huh. sorry. I voted DSM.... 40% of owners say they spend more time wrenching on'em than driving'em.

The ford 8.8 rear is almost as strong as the 9" ford rear.... And reckless op's car could very well have problems elsewhere... like an unbalanced wheel/tire. Transmissions dont usually "vibrate".

none?

unless you're making some serious power and have other suspension mods that'll make you hook hard, you wont break your 28spline axles... I've been running 11's or quicker since 1996 on my stock rear end, cutting 1.6x or better 60's.

how many do I have to buy before you'll mail'em to me?

how many do I have to buy before you'll mail'em to me?

31 spline c-clip elim axles w/ the eliminators pressed on: $400 Auburn Pro diff: $389 $789 will get you a 600rwhp w/ slicks capable rear end.

Oh, to add to that, its a full weight GT, + the weight of the 8pt cage. Probably every bit of 3500 with me in it.

not that its smart, but I've gone 10.34 on a bone stock rearend with just 3:55 gears, granted only twice. I've run a lot of 11.0's with 1.5X 60's with JUST a set of 8.5" M&H's, absolutely no suspension or mechanical changes from the 1989 trac-lok. I never left the line on the nitrous though, or I woulda probably blown up the rear or broke an axle. The stock 8.8 is a lot stronger than most people think. Like I said, its not smart, so I'm not bragging. I have a set of c-clip elim 31 spline axles in the garage, but not in the car, yet.

extrudehone is awesome. Its cheap, too. I'm cutting (die grinder/carbide bit) on an exh housing for my turbo now and plan to send it off for a hone as soon as I'm done.

i still use the ratchet clutch quadrant in my 11.0 car thats gone 10.30's. Same 1989 clutch cable too. usually the only time you'll have problems with the quadrant is if you go with a heavier pressure plate. You may have have put a nice glazing on the flywheel... that'll give you a on-off type of clutch feel.

Yeah, you basically put it in a vice and crush the top of it, increasing the spring pressure. Too much crushy = no worky. Even when done right you get what this guy describes. its the lazy way of making a stock 1G BOV hold boost above 18psi, regardless of results.

This is the best explaination of the DSM BOV you'll find. Copied from DSMTALK.com: Find another 1G BOV and do the correct fix: http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html GL Jason

crushing the BOV will hinder flow. You're getting compressor surge - the valve isnt opening as far anymore. How much vacuum does it take to open the BOV?

Me too. sprayin a lil on the dyno might do it [ 06. January 2003, 03:50 PM: Message edited by: Jasons TSi ]

run wires to your fuse box if you cant find them behind the dash. Ground on anything on the firewall or something that bolts to the firewall. GL Jason

going by what he says on his second post in this thread, I'd go with the F cam. No since buying a E cam now, then having to waste money later when you upgrade heads. The F cam is my fav. ford cam, since its good N/A and has a nice amount of lobe seperation if you wanted to use it with a blower down the road.

NB: I wasnt saying there's anything wrong with the distributer in the back, just that it could cause fitment problems around the firewall/tranny hump.

two reasons I'd go with a ford: 1. Its smaller, which should help ease fitment/headers, etc. 2. The distributer is in front of the motor, not back by the firewall like a typical 350. If you're going with any of the newer 350's, I believe they have the distributer in the front anyways. If those factors dont make the swap any easier, my unbiased opinion would be to use the 350, since it has the potential to make more HP cheaper.