20G TSi

With a turbo, there are TWO systems, not a single 'closed system'. As for that kit, I feel its a pisspoor idea b/c (as unaddressed above) it makes absolutely NO thermodynamic sense (huh?). By the time the exhaust gasses have travelled through that length of pipe, they have slowed and cooled significantly. Sure they can compensate the slower velocity by using a small exhaust housing, but refer to my example above of flowing a v8's exhaust through a straw... High RPM output is going to be limited by the smaller turbine housing. They could help situations a bit by using a ball-bearing centersection (instead of sleeve type bearings) and a lightweight ceramic wheel, but from reading the thread on the Z28 board it didnt sound like they were doing that.

if you remember well enough from publik skooliing, you'll recall a word called VELOCITY, or the speed at which air (or a liquid, they behave the same) moves. In a turbo application, cutting out all other variables, the exhaust housing and wheel size (and its aggressiveness) determine a turbos ability to spool. The smaller the housing, the faster the air is travelling, therefore the faster the turbine is spinning the compressor wheel and creating boost. This will almost always mean quick boost/less spool, but also limits the amount of air that can pass through at high RPMs. Think of it as blowing as hard as you can through a straw or through a toilet paper roll. The air travelling through the straw is going to be moving much quicker than through the toilet paper roll, yet the paper roll flows more and leaves no backpressure. Take those examples and relate them to a turbine housing on a turbo. You wouldnt want to use the straw to flow a big V8's exhaust due to the straws inability to flow enough air. The air will be moving extremely fast, yet the limit the straw can flow is quickly overcome by the huge exhaust flow output of the V8. In this situation, the turbo would spool very quickly, but wouldnt make much high RPM power due to lack of exhaust flow at high RPMs. The opposite, you wouldnt want to use the paper roll on a small 4cyl, since the marginal exhaust flow would be moving through the tube at a rather slow rate, and therefore wouldnt have enough velocity to spin the turbine/compressor wheel quick enough to create boost. Sure, at high RPMs, the 4cyl might create enough flow and velocity to create boost, but spool time would be slow and high in the RPM band. Now, imagining the straw situation is on the 4cyl. It will have enough velocity at low RPM's to spin the turine/compressor wheel and create boost, and (if matched right) the 4cyl would not flow more exhaust than the straw can. Thats about as simple as I can put it... That ofcouse doesnt address the thermodynamics involved, so there's more to it than that, but hopefully that helps somewhat.

definately a master or slave cyl. (prolly master). Mine will do that too if you slowly press in the clutch - it'll go right to the floor. If you stab the clutch a few times, it'll likely go back to feeling normal.

yeah, I know how that is. So if its just a 1/8" lip, then its a two part axle (half shaft/end shaft)? Else, the joint would HAVE to be right at the tranny, no? I just did a tranny in a ford probe GT that was similar to that. i wound up getting it to pop out with tire tool. Wasnt easy, and didnt come out without about 5 minutes of cussing and spitting. GL

What is there on the axle right by the tranny/axle seal? Surely there's gotta be a joint there that you can pry on? If not, where is the joint? Does it have a half shaft or something?

and if you paid $1600 to have a t-5 rebuilt, you should seriously think twice about spending another dime until you know more about these cars.

305 is a dog b/c it doesnt have a 4" bore. The intake valves are too close to the cylinder walls to flow very well. regardless, 300hp should be possible... but dont expect too much more out of it (without a poweradder, nitrous, etc).

Oh, it'll take some cutting, and prolly removing of the front 5mph bumper support, but you can make those fit.....

there's a million spearco core bar-n-plate IC's on ebay for 3-400 bones... those should flow and be efficient enough to support 500hp dependant on size. So long as you're not skurred of making your own IC pipes, you should be set with just about any one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2417723782&category=33742 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2417983145&category=33742 just for example...

correction, its running extremly LEAN at idle, due to vacuum pulling unmetered air in through the BOV. And it dies because its going from a rich condition to an extremly lean condition every time you boost and lift off the pedal.

has your friend drove the car much with the BOV vented? Any time you go up a hill and approach 0psi, the BOV opens and the car bucks like a $3 whore (due to running rich). Unless you've got some type of VPC, like dremel said, its not going to work well. Why vent anyways? So you can sound like you've got a fast car or something? It does nothing positive for performance... infact (again, like dremel said) it will make the car run rich and like shit. Tell your friend to quit trying to rice his car out and route the BOV back into the intake. I've been using a 1G BOV, and with a K&N and the BOV routed into the intake, and BOV dump tube cut, its quite audible.... edit: the idle is like shit since the BOV is open during idle letting some metered air out. Stock 1G BOV's leak at anything above 17psi, so he's likely getting worse performance at WOT also.

my bet is on the pilot bearing.

yup, you can usually get a slide hammer/pilot bearing puller from autozone for cheap or free (plus deposit, ofcourse).

Anyone know where to find liquid poly - the stuff for making motor mounts and such?

green wire w/yellow stripe coming off of the distributer harness. [ 27. March 2003, 05:46 PM: Message edited by: Jasons TSi ]

Has anyone here ever put a motor in a 1989-1992 nissan maxima? How much of a PITA is it? About how much should I expect to pay for a decent running engine? What series engine is it (VG30DE/VG30E etc). I have a chance to pick up a 1989 with a bad engine for $350, but I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I go pick it up. Thanks in advance! Jason

BC - do you happen to have an eeprom map, or even just the eprom locations (addresses) of those values?

depends on your idea of "appropriate", I guess

dont be a pussy. get a mani that a mitsu exh housing bolts to and get a 18 or 20G. there are several adapters you can buy and even a stock honda mani (dependant on motors) you can get to bolt a mitsu turbo straight on. Get a set of low impedence 450 or 550 mopar injectors and hammer down.

the high pressure hose and clamps would prolly work just fine - hell, thats what mitsubishi uses from the factory for its turbo coolant lines... and they're not even high torque clamps. I'd flare the hard line somewhat, use some fiberglass reinforced hose and double clamp it. If you've got the money to do it the way these other fellows have mentioned, then do that.

happy raping. I could have it fixed for ~$30 and two hours. btw, you're planning on opening a store selling performance oriented parts, but you dont know when a TOB goes bad or how to fix it?

if you want it to last, send it off... dont let some local yocal rebuild it. Find someone who REGULARLY rebuilts CT series turbos.

no, its just a throw out bearing. pulling the tranny isnt too bad and the TOB isnt expensive.

shouldnt cost you more than $10-15 bucks. Try a muffler shop if you dont know anyone with a welder.

Oh, and I'm leaning my 4G63T out to .88v / 1625F degrees - its holding up (550cc's go in today graemlins/bubbrubb.gif )