rl

I'm not going to do that hack, I'm trying to figure out a better way to use 2 MAP's (one vented one closed) instead of a MAP and a TPS other than what I have seen on the boards. I might mess with doing the other hack if I cant get this to work (at which point I'll want your help ). Right now I'm just trying to keep the stupid resistors from heating up and causing everything to go wacko. I think I'm just going to wire 2 of the 10w 10ohm resistors in series per injector and mount them on the driver side shock tower with heat sinks. That way they wont have as much engine heat, and will be able to handle 20 watts.

I'll move them to the fender and put a heat sink on them. That should do it smile.gif Might as well do the AFC hack while we are messing with it.

What he said. ESPECIALLY if you get a drag kit. If you get a greddy kit you'll have better luck. Do NOT expect to bolt the turbo kit on and have the car act the same as before, only faster. EXPECT to break parts and have issues, because there are ALWAYS some issues and everything always costs more than planned. Have another car to drive. If that doesn't scare you off then go for it. Doing it yourself would save a bundle, a shop would probably charge $800+ for the install.

Nate, I've done several. Hit me up 740-971-4901 after 8:00 tonight. Budd and I can do it for ya. (and you'll get to see your old neighborhood )

Just running a VAFC smile.gif We need to get the car on the dyno, right now we get black smoke under boost, which is good, but we need a wideband. It still idles pretty rich with FP at 40. We use a check valve for the MAP, when I get the car on the dyno I'm going to do the hack (get rid of the check valve and set the VAFC for -%'s). I don't like using a check valve. [ 30. June 2003, 04:45 PM: Message edited by: rl ]

The Drag kit is not that bad to install. You do have to clearance the block for the turbo to fit, and if you go to a tial wastegate you have to clearance the head/valve cover a bit. I don't like using a bleed off valve like Drag gives you for the MAP (drags missing link still allowed ~4-5psi to the map, I had to use different check valves on Dak's car to keep all the boost out, I also had to fabricate a blockoff plate on the throttle body to cover where the MAP used to be)however I heave read about using a VAFC to eliminate the need for the missing link if you are running under 10psi or so, however I haven't had a chance to experiment with it, nor do I like using a FMU. You also have to fabricate brackets to move the fan over about an inch. I just used some 1/2" lexan and heated it and bent it so it kept the fan on the radiator while moving it over. You also have to fabricate the exhaust, as it eliminates the cat. You have to weld in a bung for the second 02 sensor and come up with a way to connect it to the cat-back (it doesn't come with any flanges). If you get the drag kit give yourself a day or 2 to do the install. I can do a greddy kit in a few hours, the drag kit took about 6. I'd also buy injectors and a VAFC to get rid of the FMU. Rob

Still waiting on parts. The kid is waiting to get the motor done first I guess. Hopefully it will be done in a few weeks.

Why? The way I look at it, the injectors are a load on the computer. Just like if you run speakers at 1ohm on a amp rated at 8ohms, it burns the amp, not the speakers.

We can do Sunday, I'll pick up the resistors today. Yes you might need a new computer if the old one is damaged, we'll figure that out Sunday.

http://www.muller.net/sonny/resistorbox/ There ya go smile.gif Either that or I can wire in some 10w 10ohm ballast resistors to the + side of the injectors, this way would work, but the resistors can heat up and then the resistance can change which might lead to some hot start issues. Lemme know what you want to do, wiring in the ballast resistors would cost ~$5 from radio shack and take 20 minutes. I'm free on Sunday. I just hope that the injector drivers didn't get damaged (which I think they might have). Rob

Where the plugs fouled? Anyone know the side effects of running a car with low impedence injectors without a resistor box (besides the fact that it will run like shit)? I'm just wondering if there is any possible damage to the computer...

Injectors and a hondata.

Mike at M&M rocks. They arent THAT expensive and they do awesome work. Besides, why would you want to value shop with something as important as machine work?

The largest saturated injector that RC makes is a 500cc injector (which is actually ford/chevy specific), to go larger you have to get a peak and hold (low impedance) injector. Dak's bought 550cc RC injectors. They are extreme overkill, but that's one spot where overkill is a good thing.

Unported? 400hp is close to the limit. Ported? Probably 600+hp

Worst comparison EVAR. First of all, nitrous Pete doesn't have 1300rwhp, he has MAYBE 1,000hp AT THE CRANK. Secondly the cobra block is a different beast then what's in his GT, the iron cobra block has a 6 bolt main for starters (well, 4 bolt mains with cross bolts) not to mention the fact that it comes with forged pistons, rods, and crank from the factory. Not shitty ford forged stuff, but actual after market equipment. Fuel is NOT the tricky part, that's pretty simple. Big injectors, big lines, big pump, big regulator, and a FAST stand-alone. The tricky part is getting those POS SOHC heads to flow enough to make any power, and keeping the motor together in the process. Rob drive through

I have one as well you can use if you need.

If no fuses are blown, my guess is on the clock spring. Without a air bag it might be cheaper for the part, too.

It's the clock spring in the steering wheel I bet. Does the horn work? Does the truck have an air bag? It's a VERY common problem with lightning's, $100 part. I havent had cruise or a horn since I bought my truck (mods come first dammit!).

I'm installing one on a h23a car. The drag kit comes with nothing electrical (genIII) Just a FMU, greddy's kit comes with a blue fuel control box that must be soldered in. The FMAX kit comes with a BTM, with the greddy or drag kits you have to manually retard timing or buy a BTM. We'll just say dak's car had some slight detonation issues (which where impossible to hear over the externally vented wastegate). Rob

I'll know more about them in a few weeks smile.gif They look VERY complete, injectors, BTM, etc, More-so than a drag kit.

You could run 6-8psi if you had the proper fuel system and the car was tuned correctly. Dak's car suffered damage because it was hellaciously lean which lead to detonation. Rob Inventing words since 1982

You might want to invest in a fuel system if you run any more boost then that. My guess is it will be a hair on the lean side. Rob A 17:1 a/f ratio is a BAD thing

50% chance your motor is fucked. I'll see what I can diagnose tonight, while you projectile vomit

Do you mean 351? Does the truck run now and your converting it to 2wd? What exactly do you need done? Rob