rl

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Is it only happening when she is on the gas say more than 50% throttle?

Sweet shit! smile.gif Glad you like M&M they kick ass. Have them assymble the engine, you have a lot of money in it, not a goood 'learning' engine smile.gif Tell Mike Rob sent ya! I owe him $20 for a ring set still, I should probably pay him

Install it straight up and get a adjustable cam gear, wouldn't that be the best option? I know its what is commonly done. Using a degree wheel wouldn't be necessary. What head do you have? What the shit is this thing going in? I could get you a complete xr4Ti motor, harness (best stand-alone harness) and computer for like $350 prolly. My friend has one sitting in his garage that he isnt going to use. It has a knife-edged lower and half gutted upper, besides that its stock.

Is this for a 2.3l? You could always install it straight up with an adjustable cam gear...It's not going to be the same as Degreeing a OHV V8. FWIW, I would install that cam 'straight up' (just line the timing marks up).

Sounds like the thermostat is sticking. Which car?

Are you using over the counter octane booster (which is pointless)? If so then that is where the red color is coming from.

8>

You have the PN for that 5 wire 02 sensor that we where talking about?

Whats the block from? You can convert an older block to roller, but you have to use link-bar lifters or a reduced base circle cam. It's not worth the money or hassle for your application.

I bet he would lose a decent amount of power up top with that cam, even over stock, and with a 4,000+lbs car I REALLY doubt 4.10's would hurt it. We arent talking about 350+rwtq at 2000rpm, more like 280ft/lbs at 2800rpm instead of 3000rpm.

What are the specs on the cam? I'd say don't put a cam in the car unless you at LEAST put some gear in it (4.10's man! come on!).

You can go bigger, I ran an F-cam in the cougar (it has one in it now)I also had an E-cam in the car, it picked up 20rwhp with the F-cam, however it moved the torque peak up 1,000rpm, hell the mustang has a .577 lift cam, 1.97" intake valves and a stock shortblock and it clears. Is it a HO motor? if not, none of the cams will work. Is it speed density? If so none of the cams will work. If it uses a MAF then I would go with an E-cam, but you will need a converter or some steep gears, with any of the cams you are going to lose bottom end over the stock cam. Rob

Will you do performance stuff too? If so I'm going to start dumping some of my customers on you, I'm not going to have time to work on anything once school starts this year.

It's like $5.99 from Parts America you cheap ass.

I would assume that all the extra electrodes would do [bosch +4's] is promote detonation. It will pick one electrode to arch with, that leaves the other 3 as nice sharp hot objects to pre-ignite fuel. I personally prefer copper plugs on anything other than NA.

I'm rl. smile.gif Shoot me a PM and we can talk. Rob

To add to what he said, it could have a bad U joint as well...

Practice practice practice! I've been welding for ~4 years now, I'm good 80% of the time. Buy a NICE welder. I was using a cambel hausfeld POS welder and didn't realize how much it sucked until I got a NICE welder. I've also had problems welding using outlets in newer houses. Trying to use the cambel hausfeld welder at Doug's house was a disaster, every time I would try and weld I would loose power to the welder, the feed would slow WAY down and it wouldn't weld for shit. Part of that was the welder, but I never had issues like that in my (30 year old) house.

This is good shit! I think someone needs to borrow your tune! smile.gif

740-369-6442 Ask for mike. I have a friend with a turbo 4 from a merkur (same engine, just more of a 'stand alone' style harness and computer), harness computer and all, He'd probably sell it pretty cheap if you needed another motor. Rob

We need one that has ports for oil fittings for gauges and whatnot.

Ahhh, I understand now. I suck at teh electronics. I think I'll just get some of the wire wrapped 10ohm 25w resistors and see what happens smile.gif

I think I got my terminology wrong (obviously), I meant parallel, So it increases the voltage they can handle, but does not increase the resistance. (Like ----=--- Where the resistors are the '=') Thanks for the links nevermore, I'll check them out.

When they get hot the resistance changes, and it throws everything off. They are just open ballast resistors. I doubt the flat black paint does anything negative to your resistor box.