Science Abuse

Minivan, the ultimate build....anything. Put anything in it....in the back Vank it all out of the front, mount the RWD drive train of your choice in the back. No drive shaft, just hook it to whatever rear end you chose to hang back there. graemlins/thumb.gif

dude at work = getting reemed. Bad injector, 96 3.4 liter. Are those standard bosche style injectors? Cheapest OEM he can find are over $100 each.

Soon. Looks as thought he seal seems to have just worked its way out of the housing. Possibly fromthe vibration i get from 110-125 mph. Thats a looong 15 mph and I spent alot more time in that range this week then usual. wondering if its possible to pusht he seal back in. foolish optimism, yeah, but I'm a cheap bastard. Oh, and 148 before the seal went.

4R70W extension housing, loosing alot...well, all my fluid out of it. Best case: its just the hard line that runs outside the tranny to the housing to provide fluid to the rear bushing. fix: make new line, same as making a brake line. worst case: Need to replace the rear extention housing seal, possibly the bushing. fix: drop gas tank, pull drive shaft, pull seal and bushing. Realy hoping not: Ate bushing, damaged housing, need new housing, seal, bushing. fix: drop tank, pull shaft, drop tranny crossmember, remove housing. anyone wanna give me a hand? Car dont like to move with nothing in the converter, so this needs to be done here. tongue.gif

IAC sensor, find it, clean it, or replace it. Idle Air Control Car wont idle, first stop = MAF sensor (cuz its easy) Second stop = IAC.

parked car today with gauge running high, half way. drained system, refilled with 50/50 and put a 180 stat in. With a system full of cold fluid, I start the car, and found the gauge was unmoved. There be no sensor in the stat housing, and none in/on the radiator itself.

switch was removed eons ago and put back to the stock system. Checked my connections, all fine. I used male/femal connectors with boots and wraped them in tape.

wait, if it was a stuck Tstat, wouldnt the temp go quite a bit higher then half way up the gauge? Also, the radiator is hot. Not warm, fricken hot. And, the fan is not running, where is the sensor that triggers tghe fan? Fan fuse is fine, hoping th efuckin fan itself aint hosed.

its the bird, has a 2 month old 160 stat in it. bout time to change to a 180 and 50/50 antifreeze anyways.

start the car and drive it, watch the temp, it behaves as if the fan isint running, it crawls gradualy half way up the gauge and levels off for an inconsistent amoutn of time, then drops like a rock back downto normal operating temps. Tstat is 160 and is opening. So, WTF? Wheres the sensor in these motors?

dig it graemlins/thumb.gif HA jon!

I use my finger, not much to tune by, though.

beat me to it. If you look at the impellars, you'll see that the cobra impellar seems to be smaller in diameter and blade height then the stocker, which may explain your heat problems. Keep in mind that, though your car shares the same block geometry, all the other coolant passages are different. This could mean that what works for the SVT wont work the same for your Intech. Also, arent the 03s aftercooled? It wouldn't supprise me to find that the Mark 8s had some freak bastard water pump that flowed beter then any before or after, Ford is weird like that, especialy with the FN10 platform. just look at the rear end, lightweight materials, cutting edge (ala mid 90s) engine tech, beefier 4R70W, Aluminum drive shaft, the list goes on.

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i.e. Going down to one big one in the middle of the hub. Obviously cost prohibitive, but I'd still like to know how to do it. Lets discuss. step 1, parts? [ 30. August 2003, 07:43 PM: Message edited by: Driver ]

You would see no improvement, in fact you'd see the opposide and ALOT of it. Stay single, dont go more then .5 bigger on the ARs, be prepared to replace an engine or two

whats all this shit Matt? Afraid to take the bird stock for stock? Oh well, doesnt matter, you're still going down at ledges this october As for improving your handling, step 1, douse mustang in kerosene and set on fire. Step 2, get in the damn garage and fix vet.

In all honnesty you might want to consider something other then drag racing for that car. The platform and the physics, along with the aftermarket, dont lend themselves to it. HJowever, for less money you could have a bad ass auto crosser, IMHO 10 times as fun as drag racing Or if you've got the nuts, Rally

yeah, I do. Why dont you put money in something I can apriciate, the like in the rear of the car. Prefereable visible from long distances tongue.gif oh, and to make this post pertinent to the thread: jetta performance technologies

He asked for tuners, so it apears speed is what he wants more of, rather then bling. wheres Kyle when we need him?....oh, under his GTi....still tongue.gif

I'll tell you what I told Craig Breedlove. 3 words solid fuel rockets.

Steve, I think you should just stick with good ol unburned fuel, realy cold flame.....purple/blueish read...almost like a rainbow, it'd suit you. tongue.gif

this thread will die a quick death. Hears some advice, want soke from the tires at speed? Develops horsepower and torque, the more the better.

damn, thats just too easy. Nah, this is Marks section, better not. try KY DAMN, let it slip, sorry. tongue.gif

that shit came out of my keyboard? I need more sleep. tongue.gif Turned rotors warp fasrer...because they are thinner. Our cars do have different weights, calipers, pad materials, rotor sizes, brake biases, etc. YOur mustang is lighter, and has a more sport minded braking system as mine. i.e. your car should fare better under such circumstances then mine. Glad you see that what I'm trying to say is critisism and not insult. Just tryin you help ya out man. smile.gif To be blunt, you dont drive good. Neither did I, until I learned otherwise. NASA is your freind man, Goto beaverun, run group 1, great place to learn. www.racenasa.com