Science Abuse

yeah, what he said /\ Mine's doing the same, and leaking tongue.gif

update: I did nothing, no more hard start

I've been giving my 85k alternator the shady eye lately. And my ground is pretty ghetto, but was never a problem before. bollucks

nah jay, he painted his XR7 rims. And what jay needs is an adapter, a hub centric ring. Spacers are dangerous on hubcentric wheels, imho.

imagine a dying battery. Let the car sit an hour, co back out, and it take 3 seconds of starter torture to get her running, WTF? The battery is a 2 month old Optima red cell, 800 cca's. that hell? It's in the trunk, could it be that its colder back there?

thats exactly what I was thinking. Just looking for a cheaper answere thena frame shop

got this email from Nevarmore up in Kent now, thought I'd ask around here: _------------------------ went in to goodyear for a wheel balance and alignment today. it wouldve been $90 if they hadnt noticed that my right rear wheel is so far off that they couldnt fix it, and suggested i go to a frame shop and come back to them for new tires. i do see where i need new tires, the misalignment did lead to some horrendous wear. as yet i have to wait until ive got another day off work to go in for an estimate. Any ideas? ask around at CR and see if anyone has anything useful to tell me about a massively out of spec toe/camber. camber is at 3 degrees and spec is -0.2 to +0.8 degrees, and toe's is at .43 with a spec of -0.05 to 0.15. the left rear toe is at .75, everything else is at or very close to spec. inquired about LT tires as well, id have to get some r15 steelies first. ----------------- I'm thinking the horid camber could be related to his bad air shock lowering the car, and that would effect the camber. The toe, I'm stumped on, other then having whacked something like a curve. any guestimates on price of a frame straightening job? also, he needs rims tongue.gif

Fixed didn't even need a fire extinguisher

Doh! not working out as I intened...DAMNIT! tongue.gif

pussy ass LS1, I knew you'd come around Anthony

Stasy in the family, 2JZ GTE

the technique has been out about a little while now, I'm sure some on here "knows a guy who knows a guy" or read soemthing in reguards to weather or no cryo treatment is actualy worth the time and money. Anyone hear anythang?

I wasn't aware they were legal in this state...? At least, they cant pull you over.

electric = pipe dream, the way they are now, they're not marketable. Natural gas though, I'm all about that. Anyone remebert he super stalion? over 1000 hp on an LPG fed V10

pretty spiffy. No wonder they need a tuneup every 5000-6000 miles. tongue.gif

Ohio

No personaly experience, but I know alot of guys with the T-bird stuff, and they all say it's the shizzle. (though not made any more ) I also know a guy who knows kenny, been tot he shop, seeen the opreration, high quality. I say go with the Browns..... tongue.gif

aww c'mon justin, you gotta go with Fram, simply for the Suregrip, expecialy on our cars Makes geting it out actualy easy. T-bird 4.6 - Fram PH2 Mustang 4.6- Fram PH8

I'm taking my jackstands back, hater! tongue.gif

What is your obsession with big thick injection stacks?

You know Mike?! From where? I met him a few times back in the days of the Scary Canary. See if he rembers the little people at the TCCoA. tongue.gif And mat, the chip will get rid of your speed limiter and play with oyur timing and AFR a bit to optimize hp. A custome EEC reflash can change just about every perameter set by your computer, including the nasty limiter you'll hit at about 4500-5000 driveshaft RPM. Contact them and see what they can do. You can have a flashed EEC for drivign around, and have a "flip chip" tied into you boost controler, neat shit.

Electromotive Tech 2, ask turbo pirck tongue.gif But, you are blessed with an EEC-V and the stand alone is not neccesary with your mild build plans. www.fordchip.com, see about a dyno tune. There was one here a month or two ago, but ya missed it.

Jegs sells manderle bends in stainless pipe. If you can find a welding shop, you can gjust cut the pipe into pieces and fit it up to make you exhaust, then have the shop weld it all together. Stainless is pretty, but IMHO isn't worth the money. It'll last forever, but what are the chances you'll have your car for eternity?

Mobil 1, 10w 30, been using it for years, and was recomended to me by some one who used it for year ( yeah, 1). Change it every 2500mi. The engines seem to eat a bit of oil, no one knows where it goes

damn, rob cant drive long before ehe gets kicked in the nuts. Speaking of transmissions, Nick, still got them T45s? How much you want for your best one? My auto is about to die, I can feel it.