Science Abuse

I've had the same pair of $15 knock-off Oakleys since 11th grade, they don't die. I'd be sad to lose them. Heading to Cars n coffee in a few

May have passed you on the highway, Scott! PS, I have somebodies sunglasses.

Just got to town. I'm late

Hmmm Not sure if want. I reckon it's a cash only kinda place?

Has anyone see the guy with the VW Rabbit Cabrio that ran with NASA a few years back? Hand controls, roll cage, and never more than 3 wheels on the ground at any given moment. I personally saw him get on 2.

Drogue chute saved his ass. No amount of counter steering will correct a slide at that speed. Once your ass comes around and hits 200mph air, the ass lifts off the road and you end up spinning through the air. Air is a bitch. Here's a fun example: He spun because he did a burnout at 225mph. The burnout came from the rear wheels trying to push the car against the air, which was pushing on the nose like it was driving through a giant cake.

In that case, I'll try to make it up there

It's from the parks system budget, it's going to be spent on some park somewhere, best it be spent on something new that actually helps people. Being able to pedal from Mt Air through OSU to downtown kicks ass. Grants and applications of tax money for public works are things that civilized countries engage in. If you don't like that, go find a country where that doesn't happen and tell me how great it is to live there. Then, spend a week in Switzerland and tell me how bad their "socialism" sucks.

I don't really have cars anymore, I have goals and the cars are the means to reach them. Different cars are suited to different goals.... though I seem to have stuck with a particular platform for quite a while.

Mike; take it all. Go to an army surplus shop and get an old Alice pack (LC-1 Field Pack). Take the bag off it and you're left with a metal frame with shoulder straps and back support that was DESIGNED to have equipment lashed to it. My junkyard toolbox weighs 80 lbs and I don't need no wheelbarrow. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/All-purpose_Lightweight_Individual_Carrying_Equipment

http://cdn2.holytaco.com/wp-content/uploads/photo/55/6787/Car-Was-Used-Adult-Film-Highway-Gangbang-Da-Butt-May-Require-Some-Light-Interior-Cleaning.gif

Awesome, thanks! Was hoping an oil filter relocator with a 2.75" ID Oring would seat up.

I need the Max outer diameter of the oil filter O-ring seat; the machined flat part that the oil filter Oring squishes up against. The OEM filters have a max OD of 2.8, but I'm relatively sure the max OD of the seat is bigger.....?

Tapped the starter with a hammer and jumped it, fucking car started right up and all the lunacy faded away. All of this other crazy shit may have been from low voltage.

I popped out the glove box, and this thing is clicking: http://s18.postimage.org/42g6otq6h/IMG_1769.jpg Looks like a big power supply? I also noticed that the glove box light is flashing in sequence with the clicking.

Well, I pulled the door skin to inspect the wiring, and when I put it back in, I noticed there was a clicking under the passenger dash, similar to a turn signal click. It stops clicking when I shut the door. I noticed that it clicks in perfect time with the anti-theft light in the dash. Power locks "barely" work with this going on. Hitting the button gets a very weak response, like the solenoids aren't strong enough to lock the mechanism. What TF is going on? Maybe I have a short in the system? Draw volts when I try to crank the car?

Still Clank. Accessing the starter is a bitch, it'll be thursday before I have time to get her airborne. I know that low volts in cars with loads and loads of accessories can make them crazy (like this), I just thought I'd get it to turn with the jumper cables and the 13'ish volts. Doesn't tell me anything about the amps, though.

Update: The lock pictured above. I pressed the switch in, and now the power locks and keyless entry pad don't work at all, ever, regardless of key position. I glued the switch lever back together and pressed it back down into the lock. As I was pressing, the lock was rocking back and forth and working fine: locks were locking and unlocking. The last push, up over the rib and the switch snapped into place... the locks stopped working that exact moment.

Asked around: Apparently these cars keep everything on for about 10 minutes after you pull out the key, or until you get out of the car. tried a jump from the running Subaru, still no dice.

Bloody electronics, not so luxurious now are they?

Can't say if it felt different, it's only the 5th time I've started this car. lol Ignition is in the dash panel on this one, I could look into that..... but it's got a chip in the key. I think it's a more difficult change than usual.

No dice. Tried the fob too, which barely works but managed to lock and unlock the car just fine.

Bad starter maybe? Trying to find where the click is coming from.... it's more of a loud "Clank", comes at a rhythm of about 1 per second. Much slower that the clickclickclick I've heard from other dead cars.

1997 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC Yesterday, the car started right up and ran fine. Today, I get a "chunk chunk chunk", but no sustained effort to turn the motor. When I turn the key off and remove it, everything inside the car stays on: data center, accessory button lights, I can cycle the windows and locks from either seat. It's as though he key is still in the run position. Also, the radio comes on by itself, in the cassett function. The Anti-threft light is either on or blinking the whole time. Jumping had no effect, good battery. Unhooking the battery to try a "reset" had no effect. The only thing I'd done to the car between shutting it off yesterday and turning it on today was prying out the switch lever from the passenger side door. The cap is gone, so I pried it out to glue it. http://s15.postimage.org/nyj3uhym3/IMG_1768.jpg Did I trip the anti-theft or something? What can I do to disable it?

I'm ashamed that I get that. I lol'd