nathan

Session Timed Out. I think you have to be a member to buy off of the website too, and if he is not a member the member has to "pay" for the item FYI

He says it is titled and insured and has four doors. His truck looks pretty good, and if you look he says he sold his G35 in another auction to buy the truck. The truck is for sale in another auction for around 11K. That and the truck has a VIN so you could probably find out enough information to see what the other vehicle he owns is.

Yeah "sick" for 12 and 13 year olds is anything that could get them out of class or let them get to go home!

It is for educational use, right? Actually, the school library should have just about all of the textbooks available, I looked and OSU has the 3rd edition, which would be fine. There will not be much if anything changed from editions.

No 50% "finders" fees allowed!

Jegs link to the Moroso that I mentioned http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1338&prmenbr=361

Check out the Moroso spiralflows. They give a better sounddampening than the bullets, and are not a whole lot more expensive.

Neither will remove the swirl marks. Get 3M fine cut and hand buff the swirls out, then wash the car. If the swirls are gone, follow ^^

Did you flash the BIOS like I suggested??? You're at the highest configuration that is allowed by the BIOS, at least based on the specs that I showed you. Just download a BIOS for the MOBO from somewhere like honeyX and set as needed. I believe however, that you will probably not notice much difference in the settings as is. The temp looks okay to me too so you should be okay to run it like it stands.

Actually it is very annoying when I go to a parts store and ask for an alternator for a 1990 chevy camaro, or a new clutch for a 1999 dodge dakota and have to wait like 2 days b/c no one stocks parts. It has come to the point where it is easier to just order stuff online and then it will come to your door and you don't have to go drive to the parts store order shit, then call and ask about it, have someone say that the part is in, only to find out they didn't check, drive home again and waste more time, wait till the next day and finally get the part for more money than it cost on 10 online sites.

Supports Socket A (Socket 462) for AMD Athlon XP Athlon/Duron processor Supports 800MHz up to 1.8GHz (Athlon XP 2200+) processor I think that is probably why there is a problem. My guess is that the BIOS will have to be flashed so that you can get the correct multiplier for the chip.

Hmm, something is out of balance. The CV shaft could have been bent when there was load on it rather than on the mount. The clicking he is refering to is the bearings that are seized inside the joints. It will be worst when there is the most stress.

Try Gentiles on Shrock for your Mead needs. I prefer it hot rather than cold.

My first though is torque converter, since there is just no power being transferred to the wheels, although it could be the clutch packs. Did the guy at Tuffy flush out the converter, and did he mention if the fluid was burnt?

IE take the negative terminal off the battery. To get it fixed check with Sigman, he's in the vendors index.

you should be able to take the fuse box down to see if the wire connectors somehow got shoved up and are not seated in the holders on the back. If you have an open spot you could always just move the wires to there. They also make fuse holders that will clip onto the side of a fuse box that you slice the wires from the turn signal into.

A dot of superglue should hold it in there quite nicely. Its not blowing the fuse, just falling out, right?

I would suggest making sure the piston is all the way up on that cylinder to avoid having shavings fall too far. There are a couple other rethreader that are cheaper too. In fact if I remember right, I think there might even be one that is specifically for spark plugs and does not require drilling made by helicoil or spriracoil

Auto or manual tranny? Did it run when you bought it? Do you have any pics of it?

I was wondering the same, that's why I suggested what I did. And magically there is the thread http://www.columbusracing.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=29;t=001024

The rules changed on this, you will only get the auction price as a write off now unless the charity uses the car for their personal needs. My suggestion, put it in the corral and get $$$ for it.

Yes, I have them on the TA, and have been pleased with the performance for the price.

Or, buy a cheaper one, and use a dimmer switch in-line. The better place to go is someplace like Franklin Art Glass. They sell NICE irons there. The one I have now has lasted for about 4 years, and is designed for heavy duty usage on stained glass.

Was the Shipping charge stated in the auction? She should not be able to refuse to let you pick up the tixs unless she states that in the auction.

Simulators will only keep the SES light off. They only tell you if the Cat is working right. The front O2 sensors are the ones that control air to fuel ratios. If your Cats are bad, then remove them and have someone delete the rear sensors out of you ECU. There are no performance gains from simulators. BTW DO NOT plug them into the fronts or you will see really shitty performance.