nathan

I think it is still a ground situation though. Have you checked the various connectors going into the AC? It sounds like one is causing a short to ground that is affecting the ECM. Without seeing the wiring diagrams I would guess it is the clutch on the compressor that is the culprit, but that is just a guess.

I am looking for chemistry or biology positions. If anyone works somewhere that is hiring let me know. I have experience in a lot of different areas but it seems like very few places are hiring right now.

Also a bit far to drive, but a vet who does good/great work is Dr Ramseyer. He is in Utica and my wife worked for him and said that he does it for very reasonable prices. We still take all of our animals there because it is worth the trip to save some money.

Did you find anyone to do it yet? I can ask my wife if she knows anyone, or the lady across the street who is still a vet tech.

Some vets will do it and some won't. Do you currently have a vet for any other animals? If so call them and ask, if not you might try The Animal Clinic of Westerville. I believe that they did it at one time, my wife used to work there.

I saw some on Craigslist yesterday you might want to check those out.

Rain should help some for you as far as the drying out part, but the clumps should be broken apart as much as possible. Raking them out might help, not sure without seeing the situation. Also a roller can be used after the seed has established and will help out too by smoothing the soil out, but do not worry about this until fall or next spring. It does take time to make it look good again. Keep up what you are doing and get the seed down ASAP

PM sent

I can go $20 on the letters if you can drop them off at my house (Minerva Park area)

Use amsoil. They have clear gallon jugs so that you can see everything. It also is the best oil on the market.

Do not roll it out, that will compact the new soil. You can let the soil sit for a couple of days and that should allow it to settle. Do you have any trees in the middle of the yard that you could use as a dome point and work out from there? gently slope the soil towards the next door neighbors yard and you shouldn't have too much problem. If you could take a pic of the yard it would help. Scotts seed should be good, but that isn't the issue, it is where you purchase it from. The major problem is that some stores in Columbus will not keep the seed from dying by doing any number of things to it. Where were you planning on going to get seed? I can recommend some places, but would rather do that via PM. You will need something to keep the seed from blowing away, ie cover, that is why I keep speaking of Penn Mulch. Fertilize after the new grass is somewhat established, the directions on the Scotts bags are pretty self explanatory. If you don't have one already, get a spreader to avoid problems such as over or under seeding/fertilizing

Spread the soil out, rototill into existing soil if desired, seed for a NEW lawn, and cover with your choice of straw or penn mulch. I suggest the penn mulch but it isn't my yard so your call. The penn mulch can be found at Oakland Park Nursery in 40lb bags and has a starter fertilizer built into it. Water occasionally if the temperature rises, but if it stay cool just make sure that the soil is moist, not soaking wet as that will allow Pythium to damp off the seeds. The seed should emerge in 5 to 7 days. Go ahead and do the germination test now or if you are in a hurry you can do it in time with the seeding of the yard. You will need to fertilizer pretty heavy with a spring treatment after the seed has become established.

Good equation, it will yield the desired results in almost all situations. I forgot to mention that Franklin OSU extension should be able to get you a soil pH without to much hassle. They might even be able to lend out the soil probe to get a few cores from different spots in the yard. Just call them up and talk to the Ag and Nat Res agent about soil testing services. It has been a few years so my info is probably not the most current and they field these types of questions regularly.

I have a master's degree in Plant Pathology, with some pretty indepth knowledge on turf. There are some shade grass mixes out there, but generally speaking those are still some sort of perennial rye and blue grass mix. The straw, while working pretty well as a cover is definitely surpassed by the Penn Mulch. Your drainage problem is either created by A) incorrect slope away from the home, which is unlikely when I look at your driveway in the sig pic or B) my guess, which is that you have pretty much nothing but clay in your yard. The problem with clay is that it can take pretty much any fertility treatment you throw at it and make it look like nothing happened. I could get into why, but if your yard seems saturated for a long time then all of sudden appears to just dry out and cracks form then it is a high clay soil. Scotts sells very good products and you should see very good results by starting early, seeding well with seed that you verify has good germination (take a pinch of seed and place between to wet paper towels in a line down the middle of the towels. Roll up and place under your sink for about 5 days in a bucket with some, not a lot of water. Remove and count how many seeds germinated). A good seed lot will see 90% germination. Do not count on the bag and if there is no germination take it back.

The moss that you have growing is due to the lack of grass, which seems obvious. The problem though is that you have no top soil/hummus layer to promote new growth. This is a common problem in cbus as many times the yards are just backfill b horizon. The rototilling will work if you have decent soil there. The leaves are mostly carbon as was stated above. The lime treatment will serve to raise the pH of the soil, which if your trees were all evergreens might have been why the suggestion was made. You definitely need a good grass seed. I will finish this thought after I get to another computer, laptop is dying

Well, there is a good way and a not so good way to do this. How big is the yard for starters? I would suggest putting in a sprinkler system first, then call Jones Top soil and have them put down or you can put down around an inch or so of top soil. You will then seed the yard as if there was no grass. Purchase Penn Mulch and layer over the seed. Water it with the sprinkler, and wait 10 days for new grass. By adding the top soil you will allow the seed to have something to root into, by adding the sprinklers you will prevent the feeder roots on the trees from taking all of the water during low water times.

Funny how you are stuck going back there though! I have said this many times, stores screw shit up but they do not take any responsibility for it.

That's a good bit of information. It should make it easier and hopefully I can just get a minispool to put in there if that is the case. If not then I saw a lot of positracs on ebay today for not much. I would consider the chrystler rear, although since you have the 10 bolt I would prefer to stick with a GM product.

I am not sure if that would work or not. The reason being I am not sure if it has the correct spline for the axles. I think those cars had 30 spline axles and the trucks, vans, and (blazers?) had 28 spline axles. I may just have to bite the bullet and buy a 9in or 12 bolt, but I thought if I could do something different it would be interesting and I might get something that was just as strong without the cost.

Dave, I thought that some of the older full size blazers had the 8.5in. I agree that I can get one for $200 at a junkyard, but I was hoping that someone might have one already pulled out of a vehicle. I had a lead on one a while back for $50 but the guy sold the whole vehicle instead.

I need only the center section as I will be recycling my axle tubes and axles, but if some has a housing or a complete unit from say a blazer, full size truck, or van that they no longer need let me know.

Hmm, I probably will have to pass then as I would need to know brand so that I could get a y-pipe to fit them. Thanks for checking on it though.

Could you check and see if you can find any part numbers on the flanges? I just would need to figure out if they would work with the angle plugs. I will search around for the info.

If anyone has some that they no longer need I am interested in getting some for my project car. They do not have to be in great shape, just not rusted through. Also looking for a catback, although that is not as important to me as the headers.

Bought this a couple of years ago when it had bad brakes, no suspension etc. I have replaced the following brakes, rotors, calipers, shocks all the way around, newer springs (40K), two new tires, alternator, newer seat without tears, CD player, and a magnaflow catback. The mileage is high 186K and it is a V6, so I figure most would want it for an engine swap, I just am looking at a TA right now. I would like to get $1000 for it, but am willing to talk within reason. It runs fine and would be good transportation until you have time to do a swap. PICS http://www.cofba.org/users/tuttle36/camaro