Dave1647545494

change t-type out for small block chevy/ls1 powered g-body the chassis stuff is affordable either way, but turbo buick parts are anything but cheap if you want it to stay together for very long....

if its a light mark plastX plastic polish may remove it.... if its a textured surface I'd try to find a good condition used one on ebay or something and just replace it

you can try automotive technicians on east main in reynoldsburg it used to be called reynoldsburg radiator repair a guy named Don moyer runs the place they may still fix them there. if they don't do it commercial radiator over on lockbourne road can probably take care of it

aye thats the smell

welcome

try babbit bearing

any gm dealer will stock that blower oil all you need to do is top it off as the blower consumes a little over time.... if you do decide to actually suck out the old fluid you'll need a turkey baster I also highly recomend gloves and clothes you don't care about in case it spills. that supercharger oil is foulest smelling automotive fluid I've ever used.

texas in january and then ireland over the summer

i'm interested in the .303 dies can I pick them up next week sometime after christmas?

I was just looking at that on craigslist the other day..... pm me bottom dollar and I'll see if I can swing it christmas was expensive this year

start with a thermostat if that doesn't do it you may need a water pump the impeller could be worn and not push water fast enough

$300.00

it was an army issue m1 carbine mag I bought up at camp perry 1 time thing but I've never left one loaded since

I can't get a car in my garage right now but if you can bring loose mounts you can use my shop press

if you are asking about the harness that goes into the factory harness they are the same... if its the harness that plugs into the back of the radio they are different

Columbus Joint and Clutch

all i can figure is that after being compressed for a long period of time the sudden relase of energy when the mag started to feed caused the spring to break. just leaving it loaded up won't do shit to the spring as far as how it works unless it fails and by fail I mean snap into two pieces

yes. I preloaded all the mags for my m1 before a weekend trip that got postponed for about a month finally got to go first two ran great third mag pop pop jam the spring had broken inside the magazine and not allowed it to feed properly. I quit preloading after that and have never had another spring fail. coulda been random, but I won't leave one loaded up anymore. notice austin with all your math I didn't say the spring could lose its elasticity i said it could fail, springs break all the time in all kinds of different applications.

if your going to leave it loaded all the time revolver all the way, keeping ammunition in a spring loaded magazine for long periods of time can cause the spring to fail and make your weapon useless when you need it the most. otherwise go for the semi higher capacity and way more fun to shoot.

fyi to whover does it on this motor uses a hydraulic tensoiner thats requires a large vise or a shop press to compress if you re use the old one or have to pull the belt and reset if its a tooth off. its a cake belt, but I don't have time to do it right now.

try spartan tool, not sure they will be much cheaper than strap on though

I want another chevette.....

I'm interested in the .410 see what kind of cash he needs out of it if you don't mind

IBC > *

no problem fellas thanks for coming in!