Dave1647545494

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pipe wrench will do it every time

water outlet is plastic on those they crack all the time byers imports keeps them in stock you'll also need to get a couple of the plastic horeshoe clips that hold the temp sensors in as they almost always break when you pull them out

no problem man lemme know if we can do anything else for ya

you wont need them every 12k, but if you want to swap them out that often buy bosch they have a lifetime warranty.....

take the valve off start the car and rev it a couple times if you think the tube is plugged anything thats stuck in there will come right out

any car that is properly maintained should give you years of faithfull service. many cars have maintenance issues that have to be covered but if you know what your getting into ahead of time you can plan for the repairs. 60 degree gm v6 motors eat intakes, older chryslers need the tranny fluid changed every 12k or they die, s- series pickup trucks eat front ends, newer fords have egr pcv coil spring and heater system issues, volkswagens/audis like to kill water pump impellers, have sludge issues on the 18t/20t and lose alignment easily on rough pavement. volvos like to eat strut mounts and whistle when the pcv system clogs up..... hit me up when you see something you like and I can probably let you know what your in for. both of my dailys are over 200k and still rolling and I sold our old van with over 400k and it still ran like a top. just be willing to put some money in whatever you buy right from the get go so you don't have to worry about it later especially if it doesn't have maintenance records.

believe it or not I run pb plaster in everything that shit is amazing it stinks but its amazing

whats the code? more than likely the dpfe (egr flow sensor) is bad and not the actual valve... the o2 sensors are 12 years old they don't last forever expect to put some money in a car that old if you want it to stay tip top

if its got rust in the frame rails I'd do maybe $50 over scrap metal value it takes alot of time to get in there and fix it right.....

strip clubs and casinos

you wanna be a socialist go live in china for awhile and report back on it.

the motors in those are wierd and take a bunch of special tools to rebuild. is it a 2.3 or a 3.0? I'll see what we can do ya on a used one.

the solenoid looking valve with the black button is what you want. hold that button down while trying to ligh the pilot wich should be just inside the burner chamber where the gas feed goes in. after you light the pilot you'll need to hold that black button for sixty seconds or so untill it warms the thermocouple enough to keep the valve open

I have an inline spark tester tool kit if you want to borrow it clay

even a furnace that old should have a thermocouple that shuts off the gas if the pilot light goes out..... can you take the cover off and take a picture?

whats the frame look like at the bottom of the shock towers?

if it was for two front bearings only they used no lube......

it doesn't look super stable, I prefer a sandbag, or whatever else is around to prop it up on over a bipod though

werd and those are pretty easy to find

we are slowly starting to get this line in our stores I currently have universal ATF only its priced at 9.99 a quart coroporate sets the pricing on fluids so thats bottom dollar on it. I don't know if thats a good price or not, but thought I'd let you guys know. I will update this or make a new thread as the rest of the product line arrives or becomes availiable for order

thanks

forced induction 500ci

whats the best flowing set of stockers to look for? a casting number is fine I can order in a couple sets and pick through um.... I'm finding conflicting reports on different websites

werd