Dave1647545494

battery or a cable problem take the battery to your local autoparts store and have them test it for you

probably from a town car

nice to meet you yesterday thanks everybody for your new and repeat business

incorrect t-birds are non-roller in that year but the lincoln got all the same parts mustangs did thats a pretty good deal if it runs

nice!

condolences.... always liked your mom she was super nice whenever we crossed paths

you guys can meet at orileys if you want I'm there untill 10pm tonite

ohio ST8 plays tonight at 930 fyi

I dug it out its a driver side sorry....

I do not have any heads..... call me on the motor I have to work this weekend but could do early morning or after 10pm

rust free hatch with lx wing currently blue tinted glass cr decal defrost works $125.00 obo or trade for a working starter for an 81 virago 750 1 LX tailight (i forget wich side) $10.00 black stock cowl vent cover $20.00 3 guage pod for center vent $25.00 (autometer new in the box for 2 5/8" guages) small stuff I can bring to work if westerville is closer for anyone to meet the hatch will need picked up in reynoldsburg prefer not ship anything but will at your cost

check the rag joint it could be rotten or broken and make it do that

if you need a stickier than normal street tire get a Nitto if you want the car to hook like flies on shit run the M/T's

i have a go-kart I want to let my kid make a couple passes in this year its got a cage and he has a helmet am I going to have any problems with this or should i just call the track and ask?

park untill you can afford to get the dsm link or have it tuned it won't be much fun to drive and if you keep running it rich like that your going to wash the rings out of it

the abs canoes are super heavy compared to the aluminum ones I have access to six of them as long as they aren't out on a scout trip you can probably borrow one

well..... it would save a dollar

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/1642147607.html here is one doc might drive

you can by a runner for 3500-5000 I don't know what your budget is

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/TFI_ignitiondiagram.gif do you see a capacitor in this diagram? thats right you don't becuase TFI is not CD style ignition. its transistorized inductive pickup

randy's machine in whitehall, columbus col-weld, napa, all do go work

what do you want to trade for

Ford used the TFI ignition module (thick film ignition) on vehicles from 1983 through the mid-1990s only. The vehicles that used this module had a conventional hall-effect distributor with a separate coil. The TFI module was located on a flat area on the base of the distributor. On some trucks and cars in the 1990s, the module was located on the radiator support housing within a heat sink. It contains solid state components encased in a thick clear electrolytic film. Its primary purpose is to send the hall-effect signal indicating top dead center on the number one cylinder to the electronic engine control (EEC-IV). The computer then takes the signal and the pulse rate and determines the rpm. The computer sends a signal to the control module when to fire the coil. The control module automatically controls the dwell for sufficient saturation of the coil windings to give the proper spark duration given the rpm in real time without creating undue heat. It also monitors irregular or missed firing counts and will set a code if a failure is imminent. However, this does not always work properly. There have been many problems with this system, stemming from heat saturation, cracking and a myriad of problems after a period of service. Failure The modules will fail once they have absorbed too much heat or for case problems. When this happens the vehicle will stall and take a period of time for a successful restart after the heat has dissipated. It can also cause a bad miss on an erratic basis. Diagnosing the Module If ignition problems are experienced, the first thing to do is to install a timing light and watch for an irregular spark. If there is, check the plugs. If the plugs are alright, the module should be replaced. They are not expensive, however, they require a small special tool to remove the torx screws in the module housing. If there was no misfire, but the vehicle is hard to start or stalls, the module should be inspected and replaced if found to be faulty. The module should be removed and checked for cracking around the torx screw mounting surface. There should be a thick film of dielectric grease on the back metal side of the module. This layer of grease keeps the heat off of the module. If the module looks OK but the grease is depleted, it should be replaced and the module can be tried again by using the timing light for steady spark. The PIP signal should also be checked. The top wire on the connector is used to check for PIP. Use a voltmeter and look for pulsing with the engine running. The pulsing means the wire from the computer to the ignition control module is good and the computer is working. If it is working, the module is bad. If no pulsing is noted, check the third terminal down for pulses to the computer. It would be wise to replace these modules every 30,000 miles as a preventative maintenance procedure considering the amount of failures and the relatively low cost versus the aggravation should a failure occur. The modules have never been modified so the new will only last as long as the old one. above copied from another site TFI is a hall effect type ignition its cheap and easy to maintain but not very reliable if you have an msd box around it won't hurt to add it in there

if you've never had a locker in anything before drive something that has one and see if it suits you..... mine didn't bother me much but all the noise they make takes some getting used to it also changes how the car handles on uneven pavement

the guy that wrote that article needs to hang out at morse and westerville for a couple hours every african in columbus has a camry or an es300