fush

I would figure it would burn out the injectors before the computer.

I still think a t3/t4 is too small unless you go with a huge turbine housing. Im going t04b 60-1 with a .58 turbine and o-trim wheel. You can see it pictured above.

There is a yellow and black power wire that goes to each injector. We used 10watt 10ohm resistors inline on each of those wires soldered into place and then wrapped in heat shrink tubing. They shouldn't get very hot since they are can handle 10watts. No problems so far. You can pick them up for like 5 bucks at radio shack. -jeff

Just make your own setup. 5 dollars in resistors and some shrink wrap tubing. If not just head down to the honda stealership and order one. -jeff

I usually start by isolating everything that runs across the fuse. And if your car has a harness that attaches to that fuse unplug everything on the ends that runs from it. You should be able to use a multimeter to test across the fuse and watch as you plug stuff in to see what causes the problem. It took me a while to find what was causing my central locking to blow in my old corrado and this was the method I used. Narrow down the area then trial and error. Good luck. -jeff

I think I've made my decision. Should be getting quite the deal on it too. smile.gif http://palpatine.infinitedata.net/~jweber/pics/turbo.jpg

You can build your own for about 5 bucks in parts. I would check honda-tech for sale forums though we picked one up off of there for about 20 bucks. -jeff

t3 too small for me. Won't bolt to my manifold anyway.

Okay I am about to order some supplies and after speaking to the guys that are supposed to know whats going on I am going to order a turbo (once my manifold is in hand that is). What turbo manufacturers have you guys dealt with before. I hear while they seem to sponsor fast cars etc. turbonetics is a bitch to deal with and their stuff seems to break a lot. The guys from innovative were VERY helpful and went out of their way helping pick the proper turbo for my application but they seem to be priced a bit higher than I was planning to spend. How about Garret or Precison? Or does it even matter and should I just go with whats the cheapest (not a viable option but hopefully it stirs discussion). -jeff

Any where local I can get the setup ceramic coated? If not I will just run the first one I think and get the second one done up nice. The first one is going to be a test piece anyway so I don't want to spend a lot of extra cash on it. -jeff

Whats the general opinion on using heat wrap. I'm having a stainless y-pipe made up for my turbo setup and I want to know if it would be a good idea to use header wrap on it or not. Some people say yes some say no. What are your opinions and why? Thanks. -jeff

Anyone have a wide band setup they would consider renting out for like a week? I am in need, and before you say it yes I know I can just take the car to the dyno and get wide band done there but I'm trying to get this thing running well and basically tuned before I go and waste a bunch of money on dyno pulls doing what I can do on the street. For anyone thats intrested its a VW 1.8T running SDS stand alone and currently ~12psi of boost. -jeff

For the price you can pick up a used k03 for you should just skip the rebuild. You can get a nice k03 sport for ~350 and I have 2 normal k03s for 100 each but they have high miles and I can't vouch for how long they might last. Just drop the money on a manifold adapter plate and a nice t3. -jeff

Forgot to post these before. I will snap some shots of the completed ones tomorrow when I head over to take more pictures. http://www.platinumpc.dhs.org/pics/pics/jeff/Picture%20019.jpg http://www.platinumpc.dhs.org/pics/pics/jeff/Picture%20021.jpg -jeff

Found that when you have to cut into the bend to make a turn section that the jegs bends are kinda ovalized which makes welding them a pain because if you dont mate the piece you cut off sometimes you will get gaps. The pipes I picked up from road race engineering turned out to be a lot nicer than the jegs one and only cost a bit more. I'm waiting on my friend to throw up the pics I took the other night and I will post them up for you. -jeff

We got a nice set on the GTi thats almost done. I can post some pics up if your intrested. Also remember not to waste time with the crappy mandrel bends from jegs they suck. smile.gif -jeff

I bought some of these pipes when I ordered the intercooler for my GTI and they are really nice compared to the stuff I was getting at jegs. Little more expensive but nicer. -jeff

Can anyone give me any insight on the wheel stages on a t3 exhaust side. I am trying to choose between either going with a bigger a/r or going with a bigger stage wheel with the smaller a/r. I have been told that a .63 a/r with a stage 3 wheel will actually flow more than say a .82 a/r with the normal -72 wheel. But even with the bigger wheel that can flow more the smaller a/r will still create more back pressure? I assume modifying both of these will change the spool time I am seeing but this project will see relativly low boost so I am trying to find the combo which will spool as quick as possible yet still flow a proper amount of air. A little background if anyone cares I am looking at a t3/t04E 50 trim, with .63 a/r and stage 5 wheel on the exhaust side. Trying to come up with a cost effective mod which should out perform all the n/a mods that one can do to the vr6 engine and also cost less. -jeff

http://palpatine.infinitedata.net/~jweber/pics/pj2.mpeg The car in the video has a turbo ka24 in it, however I think he has a few more interesting things done to it than just a simple turbo kit. If you want I think I still have his email laying around somewhere and I can give it to you. edit: also forgot to mention they are stupid for doing those things in that car in the middle of traffic but that doesnt detract from the cool factor of the car. -jeff [ 29 December 2002, 11:35 AM: Message edited by: fush ]

I need to toss my crank pulley on a lathe and scribe a circle in it to install the crank trigger magnets. Can anyone do this for me or recommend a place that can? -jeff

First off, my intercooler tubes are pretty much set the way I need them. Where can I get the ends bead rolled for that pretty finish at? Second can anyone recommend a place to get a head o-ringed at that is local? -jeff

There are lots of options available. I looked at almost everyone of them when we chose the setup for our car so here are some links. smile.gif Electromotive (tec 2 and tec 3) - http://www.electromotive-inc.com Lots of people use this with great results. Autronic - http://www.autronic.com Has some nice auto tune features and other things. This was my first choice originally but I decided it had way more features than I really needed. SDS - http://www.sdsefi.com I chose this one. Very simple setup with no as many options as the others but it still gets the job done and is a bit cheaper as well. DTA - http://www.dtafast.co.uk Good stuff here as well. There are plenty of other ones these are just the ones I looked at when I was trying to decide since they were ones people had already used on my application. Also check out haltech and the holley and accel options they are very good as well. -jeff

I'm with you on this one. (piece of shit honda ) A little more background this is a fresh motor and we had all the work done at M&M in deleware. Reassembled the car without the turbo for the break in period. Started it let it idle and drove around the block before noticing the leak the first time. The leak appears to be at the backside of the head but the head and block both check out as being fine and we have even used a different head which checked out fine as well. It looked as if the intake manifold was causing interferance with the head seating properly so we shaved that until you could run a straight edge along the head and it didn't catch anywhere. There is a stock honda headgasket on it and a set of ARP head studs torqued to 61 lb/ft. This time when we started it, it appeared to be running fine but we are still seeing a leak and neither of us have ANY idea what the hell else to look at on this thing unless the leak is coming from some other spot which we are totally over looking. -jeff

Anyone know of a good place to get information on exhaust manifold design, in particular for a turbo application. I am trying to figure out what kind of advantage/disadvantage there is between say a tubular style manifold or a box style manifold. I want to weld up a manifold for my setup and I have few ideas on how I can do it. One involves going tubular for each cylinder and the other one would just dump exhaust into a box similar to the cast exhaust manifold thats on the car now. Here is a picture of one that is "tubular" style. I was thinking it may be easier to just weld one chamber the flange and into the collector rather than do it tubular but I cant really find any information on the pros or cons to doing it this way. Any ideas or sources of info would be appreciated. http://palpatine.infinitedata.net/~jweber/exhaust_manifold.jpg -jeff

I've found quite a bit of extra weight in my car so I will give you a list of all the stuff I removed for ideas. Spare tire, jack, and rear seats took almost 100lbs out. Plus this is something you can put back in when your done racing or whatever. I have those gay electric seatbelts that run on tracks so there are tracks, motors, and all kinds of other neat stuff in there that is useless (just remember to put some kind of useful restraint in its place if you actually have that crap and remove it ). Might want to pull up your carpet also and look for sound deadeners. There were small sand bags and all sorts of noise coating stuff under there in my car. I've also had my dash out and ripped every uneeded wire out from in there. I have a huge pile of cruddy radio wiring and factory alarm wiring, and other stuff that wasn't in use any more anyway. Convert any electric options such as windows and mirrors to manual and pull out all the wiring and motors etc that go along with them. Remove your seat heaters and associated wiring if you have them or switch to a nice light set of seats. Removing the A/C got rid of about 60 more pounds of junk. The compressor and condesor alone weighed quite a bit. Also if you have a factory electric fan you could check the weight of that. I just pulled one and replaced it with an aftermarket fan from jegs which weighed about 1/10th as much as the factory unit, and pushes quite a bit more air too. I have some other things that I am going to do but they dont really fit the description you were looking for since it seems you want a nice comfy driver too. I think in all just removing those things listed was close to 250 pounds of junk. -jeff [ 16 October 2002, 08:21 AM: Message edited by: fush ]