Akula

It should power up on 10 gauge wire, if you are getting power loss I would upgrade, take a meter and check that you have 12V at the connection and check that your remote has 12v.

Yup, sounds like the bendix in your starter is f'd up, it engages and throws the starter gear out onto the flywheel, if you have to keep turning the key back and forth to get it to even turn over you probably have a bad starter. Shouldn't be too aweful bad to repair, what kinda van?

Power steering? if so maybe Power steering belt, pump?

We have a titan on the Altered, it runs 80psi off of idle, keeps that the whole time. I think you might be getting some kind of pump cavitation at high RPM, seems to me the pump isn't getting enough oil to keep the volume up, pickup not in the right place, low on oil, or something restricting the flow back to the pan. If you rev to 5000 rpm and keep it there, does the pressure continue to drop or will it stay at say 35 psi on 5000 and go to 34 psi at 5100...

doesn't that guy 614streets claim to be like Jesse James Jr.?

My hyundai has a cable/vacuum setup. The cable pulls on a piston that sucks on the vacuum lines that pulls the throttle open (don't ask me, goofy setup) you might have the same thing? If so the vacuum line seems to have a leak.

There was a guy named Gene on Shamrock Lane in Dublin, he used to do work equity and stuff, not sure if he is there anymore, think it was called Body Shop. Gene is awesome with painting etc, he did a wreck I had a few years ago.

On the MSD we have on the altered we had a similar problem. Ran with some throttle, wouldn't idle. We had a box that had some "extra features" that we didn't use. I don't remember what they where for, anyway, we had to put blanking resistors in the extra slots and turn that part of the box off. Once we did that, all was well.

I used to do alot of stereos, if you don't have a multimeter, go get one. If you blow up your electrical you will really be frustrated.

Right corners, left corners or both? It almost sounds like a fuel pickup but your car probably has a constant pressure fuel system. You might want to take a good look at all your electrical connections, motor mounts, hoses, anything that might have worked loose up in the engine compartment.

So I dropped my car off last night. I talked to the service guy because I didn't need alot of the stuff on their normal 60000 mile service. I change my oil, rotate tires, as we all know the plugs and wires are new, and the air cleaner is as well. So he says, "what kind of plugs" "Bosch Platinums" "oh those won't work, this engine only runs on NGK" HUH? So I ask about the wires and he tells me they had a problem in the beginning but they are good now, I say well I just had to replace them so WTF? He says my car must have been one of the first to break and that they are good now. Then he starts asking me what kind of gas, I say anything but BP. He says that's good, I say well that cannot matter since the dealership doesn't provided the gas it cannot default the warranty. He didn't like that I knew this. Anyway, I didn't like the attitude that I didn't know shit about cars (actually I know a little). And they didn't give me a very nice loaner, but I guess I should be happy they had one. They didn't have me on their system for today (though I scheduled it with their office) and wasn't sure if he had a loaner (a point I made quite clear when I called in for the appointment).

I am going to Hatfield, I am dropping it off on thursday so they can have it all day on friday (for a timing belt). They are giving me a loaner, if they take forever with it I will just go for an extended test drive with a new car and hold it hostage. If I have any problems I will ask for Steve Foster as you suggested, I will see what shakes out.

Thanks for the help everyone. VW and Audi will reset their OBDII codes if they get 10 starts that don't have any problems. Well apparently Hyundai does the same. The light went out after I started to go to lunch so apparently the codes where due to wires (most likely the computer saw something wrong in the ignition module). Anyway I am taking it in for timing belt on thursday so I will find out then. I wonder if they give good loaners at Hatfield. BMW upgrades you for a loaner, drive in a 325, get a 330 for a loaner (they call that selling).

God I hate service people. I e-mailed them and said I want the 60k mile service for my car (timing belt etc...) and that I would like for them to turn the check engine light off due to plug wires bla bla bla. The guy calls me and says he has to verify the wires caused it. Lets see, engine doesn't run, I replace the plug wires, engine runs again.....could be the aircleaner!

Since you said this happens when you are in neutral I am assuming this is an automatic. If it doesn't do it in drive (assuming automatic) then you have a vacuum leak (the vacuum system changes when yhou put it in gear). If it is running like this in neutral and it is a stick I would still look for vacuum, or ignition parts, distributor, rotor, wires etc...

this might be a stupid question for this forum so here goes. The wife calls me and says your car is running like crap, I say well will it make it home? She is like, prolly, and it does. So diagnostics, I start it up, it runs like crap, one hole is out, so I punch it, it takes a while but it runs up to 6 grand and it is running fine. So I figure plugs or wires. I run to the store, getem, install, everything is fine. While I am working outside in the cold I do the oil, air filter, etc... So here is my question, it is a 99 Hyundai Elantra it has a dohc 4 banger. when the engine started running rough it threw a code and the check engine lite came on. Now that it is fixed I want the lite off, what to do? Anyone have a scan tool that will work with my car to decode the error and remove it?

Everyone should know their 4th,5th,and 6th amendment rights. Don't let them do that shit. Officer's safety is one thing, but felony stop on a kid driving around "cruising" is another. Tell them they can search your car when they exhibit probable cause or a warrant. if they ask where you are going, been, doing, racing, take the 5th. The 5th means you don't want to mention anything, you can take it any time.

I second the milky oil thing. If you have a bad water pump or a line that has a problem it could be dripping on something very hot and boiling off. If that is happening you would be able to smell burnt coolant when your engine is hot. Head gasket will give you milky oil, coolant out the tail pipe (steam) etc.... You could go to napa or pep boys and have them charge your coolant system with a pressurizer and that would show a line real quick.

Ok, additional rulz, Radar detectors only show you the exact moment in time when you got your ticket, they only detect a RADAR/LASER that is on. Get a CB and talk to truckers, if you are cool they will tell you for miles where all the cops are, the trucks on the other side of the road have already seen them and tell the truckers on your side. If you let a trucker in while in traffic and call him on the CB to tell him to come over he will probably help you out. Remember these guys are just sitting in their office, waiting for someone to make their day a little brighter, just like you. Cops aren't stupid, they have pulled over more people than you can imagine, put your hands at 10 and 2 and sit there. Don't dig for your insurance and registration and stuff until he/she asks you to roll the window down and asks for it. Keep your hands where he/she can see them, it keeps his/her mind at ease. If you where speeding, suck it up and take the ticket.

IMHO, with the experience I have with dragracing blowers, you cannot run the engine without the blower. A good one will pump air when running and be a restriction when it isn't. The very nature of the beast is that you always have it on. I agree with the turbos blocking the exhaust comment made in an earlier thread. If you want more bottom end power you need more bottom end IE more cubic inches (not centimeters). At 572 inches we don't see any lag anywhere in the power curve.

Wasserbeck's Speed Shop in Ostrander did our O-Rings. We saw a noticable improvement.

If it is a hydraulic clutch I would check the fluid level in the reservoir. I had a hydraulic clutch that gave me exactly the same problems, the reservoir was out of fluid. (BAD OWNER).

We got the vacuum bleeder at Napa or somewhere ($30 I think). I can get the broken bleeder screw out with an easy-out, I was just wondering if someone knew of some awesome penetrating oil or something. I think the screw is in cock-eyed, which means tapping and Heli-coiling the hole. If it was disc brakes I would have put a new caliper on it and worked on it later, DRUMS, that is right ladies and gentlemen, OLD CAR.

Well after a year of driving the bug around with some really soft brakes I decided to take a look at them. So I drove over to the garage where we keep the race car. The first thing we did was jack up the car and pull the wheels off. After a little inspection the brakes are in pretty good shape, still soft. So we broke out the coolest brake bleeding tool I have ever seen. It is a hand pump vacuum bleeder. The first wheel bled out some kind of chunky mess (car was built in 1970). After that we pumped all new fluid into the system with the vacuum tool, my brakes work great except I broke a bleeder off. I have a new one, but need some advice about pulling the broken one. Anyone ever do that?

My first thought is vapor lock. Sounds stupid, but if his fuel lines are getting too hot, at low consumption the fuel could be vaporizing. Anyway, good luck figuring it out.