99ta

well normal should be 16-20. I get 13 hwy. So I don't really need rear o2s at all? they just test for emissons and don't affect drivablity? anyone know where I can get a programmer? lol

Rob, what would you do if this was your truck. it has codes for both rear o2s are bad. orginal cats are on the truck with 194k. only getting 13mpg. finally got it running good, but the mpg is not there.

 

getting the ORY and new o2s would still throw codes and hurt the mpg right? or do the rears have nothing to do with the way it runs? its such and nice truck but I am not going to be able to keep it if the mpg doesn't come up.

rob there actually two cats. will I need to do anything with my o2 sensors? I see they have bungs welded in will that not still throw a code? will the rears not effect driveablity? its just the front that effect fuel correct?

 

also how do u gut the cats? the y pipe is $200 and the o2 are another 140. getting sick of spending money on this truck, lol.

nice vid.

I will sell mine. Outside of amanda. let me know if you want more info.

bummer, what rear was in it?

whats highway racing?

lol 150 is not large?

what is going on in here?

welcome, dayton has a lot of bolt on sprayed ls1s don't they? So you have spray and no dynotune?

My estimate was for aftermarket parts from a standard body shop, not a dealer. This estimate came out to ~1180.

 

My normal body shop said they would not do the work for $1200.

 

Their estimate (by some appraisal company that no body shop I have been to has ever heard of)includes a $40.00/hr labor rate, and aftermarket parts (their list price is less than my estimate) that have been depreciated. They told me go ahead with scheduling repairs, drop it off, and cover the difference. The total was $735.

 

I also have already paid over $200 to get the thing drivable.

 

I want all money in my hand before it is dropped off so that I am the one in control. I don't have to wait for the insurance check to clear the body shop, don't have to play games with anyone.

 

Although it is legal, how often do people charge insurance companies for their time? I mean I have 7 hours into this now, they will quickly owe me more for time than for the repairs.

 

 

well your first problem is taking the money yourself. have the ins co work with the bodyshop not you. you should have NO out of pocket expense. tell the ins what shop you want to use and tell them to fix everything and work with the bs to get that done. as long as you trust the bs to do good work there shouldn't be a problem. $40/hr does seem low, I think we pay 42 or 44. And I highly doubt you will get paid for your time, unless you present an inj claim. then you can consider that pain and suffering. I have never heard of that company but it seems they do thing out of the norm. and unless you seriously inj getting an atty is wasting a 1/3 of your payout. it does sounds like they are trying to jerk you around, speak with a supervisor and simply tell them to repair your veh to its preloss condition.

need more details. I am assuming you got an estimate from a dealer that qouted you all new parts? and the ins comp wrote an est with used and aftermarket? if thats the case, you had used parts on your car before it was crashed you can deal with used parts now. a/m are just as good as oem (in most cases) and you will NEVER know the difference. if the ins wrote an est to return you veh to its pre loss cond I would take their word for it. post more details, I will be glad to answer any quesions you have.

wow, don't know what to say. when I say the thread this morning i skipped as i though it was a joke. RIP kenny, you were def an icon on CR.

what cat issue?

 

you never said you had one...

 

I want to take the cats out. just wondering if you would do it.

ok well, what do you suggest for the cat issue. PM a price, I need it done. I have no clue about the timing. I think he used a obdII, but it was set at 18 degrees. I pm'd AJ about setting the timing for me. lmk

update****

distributor gear fixed miss. had the timing set, with a scan tool. the guy set it too 18 degrees? from what I am reading it should be 0, right? I am getting the 1345 code.

 

also. rob what will you charge to cut out the cats and either eliminate the o2s for weld in bungs?

man thats fixable. i dont even see any damage?

Paul, you can't spray enough to keep up.

 

nope.....

u gonna be at track day on the 24th? u me u off the bottle for a dr pepper or a 40 haaha?

 

not sure yet. its a friday and not sure I can get off work. you do anything this winter?

yea an this year ur going down not me haha

 

I am not worried......

times have def changed.......

Ummnn doosh box we tried a 30 roll 3 times and and your sprayt didnt come on?????? lol. a 30 roll is fine for me. 40 rolls do suck.

 

doosh box? you can't even spell it right. and sorry my fake hp didn't work. I don't have the luxury of all that instant hp......

I ran them on my gtp back in day. I liked them, no complaints.

Shut up faggot you wanted the 50 roll.....Linn his car is the fastest from a 50 roll. Yes I wanted the 25 roll but it didnt matter cuz I spun horrible (no burnout) a dig was gonna be next but my fucking gas pedal broke off the last race.

 

lol, ok. I wanted a 30 or 40. its always got to be what best for your car. I just wanted to race.......

that vet ran 11.7 @ 117 the day before.