ansonivan

Dear bob that's fast. During the burnout, he's going through the gears without the clutch? Wishing for those synchros in my shitty vw transmissions.

It's a conspiracy orchestrated by those wacky environmentalists.

Assuming you use BMW fluid, fill it to the correct level and don't change the filter the dealer should not be able the tell you've done a thing. That said, I wouldn't change the fluid until at least 60K and definitely wouldn't change the filter yet.

Calling the local police will work, someone blocked our driveway, cops had it towed within an hour.

Very cool but wander cam with ultra short depth of field made it unwatchable.

Completely wild guess since I've never dealt with one of those early abs cars: - need to bleed the abs pump

Fuck Donatos period, shit's nasty.

See above, makes joke I did.

Woohoo!!!

Seems fine to me, if you have nothing to hide... what's the problem? /shit stir.

Betty's on High, it's not quite Brewery but it's close. http://www.bettyscolumbus.com/

Used second from last, thanks man.

+1 for giant fireball.

Fairly brimming with win, crazy cat lady is my new hero.

Bump, open to offers

Any chance you'll still consider blowing it up? I'll chip in $20 for the explosives/gasoline.

You'll get the AIDS.

Sweet! Now go stock up on gold chains, one piece sunglasses and fanny packs.

^^^ this is correct, its common in the v6 accord/odyssey. There's a TSB describing the problem which calls for drilling the egr passage in the intake and inserting a special tube, the kit is pricey. My wife's accord had the issue and I simply cleared the passageway with an appropriately sized drill bit. It's been over two years now without a return of the code. You'll need to remove the intake manifold, it's not too bad. I reused the gaskets without an issue.

I have both kinds of German, are you looking for a Hans or a Heidi? http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_Ok7q4_475fs/S__ylURQSLI/AAAAAAAAAWE/lrtgVw9rMq0/s400/lederhosen-dirndl.jpg

Needs more hot pink.

Feels one hell of a lot better now... hopefully it stays cool the rest of the day.

Vacation, this winter, somewhere warm.

The rear suspension in the car is from an A2 golf/jetta. I swapped in the complete subframe/control arms/spindles/struts and welded a solid bar in place of the steering rack in order to lock the tie rods in place. The car has always suffered from weird rear suspension behavior, mostly severe rear squirm in corners. I finally took the time to investigate, I measured the rear toe with the suspension at full bump and full droop. When measured at the tire the rear is toeing out by almost a full inch as the suspension compresses. Not good. My friend Jake noticed that the rear struts have a little bit of positive caster, with his help I moved the strut top back into a slightly negative caster position and measured the dynamic toe again. Happily it stayed almost perfectly neutral through the complete range. In order to correct the rear caster issue I'm going to move the sub frame forward and the strut tops back. This time I'll actually measure the caster Full droop http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4875876847_08f0290790_b.jpg Full bump http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4875877851_3e6a3c478b_b.jpg

Welcome aboard sir, just watch out for Erik aka pats16valve... dude may try to convince you to powder coat your car hot pink.