excell

Super helpful. Thank you!

Thanks for your advice. What do you think of the "cement wash" -- any red flags there?

Looking for some advice on choosing the best quote for some masonry work. I have a 100 year old house with an 18” thick sandstone foundation. The parging (parget?) of the foundation inside is crumbling and in need of stripping and replacement. The outside exposed parts of the foundation need some minor filling of cracks, work on mortar, etc. I have received two quotes for the work from two reputable companies, but both have entirely different approaches to the work. Looking for guidance on which may be the best option. Quote 1/Contractor 1: Inside, the contractor proposes using a surface-bonding cement parging material with embedded composite fibers. Work would retain the look of the stones/bumpiness of the walls. Outside, they propose fixing deteriorating mortar and filling cracks and running a bead of silicone around the foundation where it touches the driveway to seal it and leaving the stones exposed/untouched as they are now. This is the cheaper of the two quotes. It is warrantied for 10 years (but the contractor says of course it’ll last longer than me). Quote 2/Contractor 2: Inside, the contractor proposes using "non-shrinking mortar" and cement and applying enough coats of the cement to completely build up and smooth out the walls (i.e. make them flat and not bumpy). Outside, they propose fixing deteriorating mortar and filling cracks, but also coating with “cement wash” to seal the exposed foundation where it touches the driveway. This quote is $1400 more than the first. Contractor has not stated a warranty (I have asked them about it, waiting to hear back but during the walk through they also said it’ll last longer than I do). Contractor 2 is far and away the most reviewed and highest-rated reviewed in the area. However, during the quote inspection, contractor 2 was not as thorough during the walk around. I had to lead them into questions about specific problem areas that contractor 1 caught without prompting, and in fact I only knew to ask because of contractor 1. Contractor 1 seemed very knowledgeable, was very thorough, and includes more for the price with other work I want done (exterior brick pointing) but there are enough reviews online that aren’t great about timelines and projects needing re-done more than once. To help balance things out, I’m interested in opinions about the methods above, to see if there’s any real difference or which may be more desirable. Contractor 1 sounds like the more "modern" approach with the composite fibers and silicone, but I have no idea... Thank you

Thanks for the feedback, guys. If anyone is actually interested in the car, PM me. I'll work with you on the price. I'd rather see it go to someone who would appreciate it instead of some yokel from Craigslist.

Good feedback. I decided to price it higher because basically everything mechanical was new, but maybe I value that too highly. The converter is an easy fix, but I was really hoping to avoid taking the time with two little kids, not a lot of free time. Blargh.

Bump. Price suck? Car suck? Not in Columbus? Ha

High res https://imgur.com/a/vYmvr

Also if you want it, you can have the bike carrier on the trunk. It's semi-mounted (no holes or anything) and I used it frequently on the drive. Works great.

Selling my 2004 Grand Prix GTP CompG. I’m the second owner and I have owned and meticulously maintained this car since March, 2012. I bought it from a dealer auction and it was clear to me that whoever owned it took good care of it, so I jumped on it. Maryland/D.C. car until I brought it to PA last year so it has very little rust and a clean undercarriage for the year. It’s pretty smooth, fast, and runs well apart from needing a new torque converter noted below. High-level details Orange exterior, black leather interior, sunroof (works), heads-up display, heated seats (works). 173k miles, I bought it with 92k and the vast majority of the miles since were driving between D.C. and Ohio/PA for holidays and stuff. 50k of the miles were put on in the last 18 months on a weekly commute to DC from PA. I run 93 octane for best performance, but you don’t have to it runs fine on 87. The car has not been modded -- none of the telltale signs of a modded 3800 are there such as a pulley puller scar. I have kept up on literally everything this car needs maintenance-wise, and lots of things it didn’t but I wanted to keep it at peak performance so I didn’t get stranded on my commutes to DC. A list of nearly everything I’ve done is below, you will not find a better maintained GTP. Comes with two sets of wheels and tires, nearly new Bridgestone Potenza RE970AS Pole Positions on Grand Prix GXP 18’s, and the stock 17” wheels with General Altimax winter tires that maybe have a season left on them. Two extra RE970AS tires are included as well that have about 50% wear. The body is in what I consider fair condition for the year and mileage, save for the bumpers and side mirrors which are scratched due to living in DC and people using other cars as parking way finders. Such is life. Has its share of dings and stuff but it cleans up nice. The plastic covering on the front door window sills is flaking off revealing the chrome underneath (common). Interior is similarly good condition, with only a few minor defects – small tear in the passenger seat, HUD cover is cracked (common). "Mods": HID headlight kit, K&N air filter, 180 degree thermostat, and lowered fan turn on temperatures + fan at key off (it gets hot in DC). Aftermarket speakers + dynamat in the doors (installed by previous owner). Weathertech all-weather mats up front. Inspected in PA until June, 2017. Bad things I know of Torque converter needs replaced. I have a temporary fix in the engine computer right now to keep the converter from locking which reduces freeway mileage a bit, but it’s time. Takes about 4 hours and a few hundred bucks. If you do it, I'll flash the computer back to having lockup again or you can take to the dealer and have the PCM flashed back there. Sunroof leaks a little in huge rains, which comes out of the overhead lights. Common in the Grand Prix (yes I have cleaned the drains). Heads-up display has the common “broken spring” issue, which can be fixed for nothing with 2 hours of spare time. http://www.atthetipwebs.com/HUD.htm On hills, at very low fuel level, the fuel sender sticks making you think it has more fuel than it really does (hey, I live on a hill). Does not happen on level ground. When taking off from a stop light, there’s a “crunch” which is the fucking motor mounts I just replaced** but you can’t buy quality mounts anymore so I just deal with it. Maintenance history. Everything has been changed with genuine AC Delco (GM) parts where possible and desired: Since I bought it, it has always been oil changed religiously with Mobile 1 synthetic Rebuilt the transmission completely July 2015, including all upgraded hard parts and extra clutches. Replaced the climate control unit and radio when I bought it because the buttons were faded (seriously). Lower intake manifold gaskets upgraded to the aluminum “final” GM spec. Coolant elbows upgraded to the Dorman aluminum spec . Plugs and wires at 96k. Both front wheel bearings with USA-made Timken’s. All brakes redone with PowerStop rotors and pads and completely flushed brake fluid in April 2015. The entire suspension including shocks and shock components completely replaced last November with factory FE3 (heavy duty/sport) units, all front end suspension and wear components (tie rods, end links, etc.) replaced with Moog greasable units. Transmission cooler lines replaced last November (common to leak). Intermediate steering shaft replaced with a Dorman that doesn’t clunk (common). Battery and alternator in February this year Water pump in July this year AC condenser + recharged the AC in July this year **Motor mounts in July this year (second set actually since I’ve owned it, they get beat up) Radiator cap mostly recently in July (have done this twice) Belts and engine pulleys most recently in July (have done these twice) Headlights (old ones were foggy) Locking gas cap Cabin air filter in July HVAC blower motor in July Installed 2006+ rain deflector so the floorboard doesn’t get wet when it rains Coolant changed every year Transmission fluid and filter changed every year I’m sure I am forgetting more, but you get the idea… I have kept this car up religiously because I relied on it to perform for me in a high stress job on a long drive every week. Other than the fucking motor mounts crunching and the torque converter needing replaced the car pretty much drives and runs like new. No shit. I’m asking $4000, the car is located in Pittsburgh. You may want to bring a truck when you pick it up, you’ll need it for all the extra parts and stuff I have. But we can probably get it all in the car, because these things are pretty good at tetris with the folding seats and 90-degree open rear doors. But seriously, I have boxes of original components, spark parts, and fluids that go with the car. I think I even have a whole Mobil 1 oil change (oil and filter). I’m reluctantly selling. I don’t really want to get rid of it because I have invested so much and it’s hard to find great beaters in this condition and history. But I just came off spending 18 months driving it long distance every week and I just don’t want to drive it anymore. This car is perfect for a commuter, beater, responsible kid car, spare wife car, etc. Replace the converter and you’re set for 100k more easily. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=991&pictureid=8729 More pictures: http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/album.php?albumid=991

Agreed. It was really really good.

"Like a man" where it's flat. My house is on the side of a hill.

I bought a motherfucker of a snow blower for us here in Pittsburgh. My body is ready.

I would, if it's a real museum. Some bullshit "museum" or half-assed attraction, nope. But if it's real, think of the little kids who may be inspired by seeing it. Beautiful car, even if it's not "done" or "perfect" to you it will be to them. Worth it to make that impact. Maybe it's pie in the sky or whatever but a little time could continue a generation.

I'm hopeful I'll be giving this thing to my kid in 15 years (he's three now) so, not looking back ha. I couldn't believe it either, until I drove it. It's a sick engine if you're not towing a lot. It's like they decided they needed an engine for WASPy yippies like me who want a truck for lighter duty and appearances, but not for real work. Actually that's not totally doing it justice. The 3.5 EB is still the best engine for loads, but the 2.7 is a real nice piece. I was serious -- our van has a 3.9 and LOL at my 1989 5.0 which is slower than the van, this thing runs circles around both at around twice the weight. So nice.

Being in PA, I don't need it anyway. Yep on the hooks, but it does not have the HD towing package. It has a hitch and 4/7 wiring, but no brake controller and no auxiliary coolers.

Ha, ok. Haven't picked it up yet, it's at a dealer in Maryland called Al Packer. They were the lowest price of any dealer on the east coast by $4k and I got it for $12k off sticker. Bringing it home Weds night after a trip to NYC. 2016 Lariat SuperCrew Sport 4x4, 501A package (power folding mirrors, blind spot/reverse detection, remote and push button start, LED lights and shit). 2.7 Ecoboost, 3.55's w/ locking axle. I've never bought a new vehicle for myself (our first new car was my wife's Grand Caravan R/T last year), everything I've ever bought has been ~100k miles used so I'm not sure how to feel, heh. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=990&pictureid=8707 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=990&pictureid=8708 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=990&pictureid=8709 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=990&pictureid=8711 http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=990&pictureid=8710

Pretty much what I was looking for. Thank you!

Smaller engine than my minivan!

Pulled an anti-Clay and bought a new 2016 Lariat CrewCab with a 2.7 Ecoboost. What's the least shitty forum for this truck?

LOL

Got it. No plastic. Haha

Good feedback. I hadn't thought about the Roundup hurting the trees or running down the slope and killing the grass and stuff there as well. Maybe a light application of it now/soon while the plants are still alive, then cut them all back after they die and till. The plastic is a barrier to prevent weeds from growing back under the new topsoil. Maybe it's overkill?

We bought a house, and the back yard was once a very nice english style garden with topiary plants, ferns, ivy, etc. Over the years as the folks we bought it from got older, they maintained it less and less. Now it's pretty overgrown and gangly. The yard sits mostly under a few large trees, partly on the side of a slope/hill, and is very shaded -- some parts don't get any direct sunlight. I want to nuke the whole thing and plant grass. To do so, I will also have to truck in probably 20 tons of top soil to increase the level of the flat part of the yard, and grade it out properly. I've been doing some research and have thought out a plan, but I know we have a lot of folks experienced with this here so I want a critique of the plan and make sure I'm not going about this incorrectly. This fall as things start to die off: 1) Pull/cut/mow/destroy all of the plants and dig out the largest of any roots; 2) Spray the whole area with Roundup or similar plant killer; In the spring: 3) Till the existing soil; 4) Cover with plastic; 5) Truck in the top soil and grade; 6) Plant the seed with a protective layer (I know this part well) Do I have the timeline right or should other steps be done in the fall? Like, maybe I should go all the way through step 5 this fall and then plant the seed in the spring. Also, for a 100% shaded area I was thinking of Scott's dense shade mix or similar. What else am I missing? Thank you

I just checked on a set of these for my Mustang... $64 each. Damn. It has brand new offbrand tires on it, but for that price I may hit it!

I had a set. Great tires, but they get squirrly when they're cold. Warm them up in lower temps before driving like you stole it.