recklessOP

even my mustang scares them. where are the pushrods..? redface.gif

they're everywhere. i saw them all over 30 and 71...

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anyone want to help me put these in..?

the place where i get my rotors turned charges 8 dollars a rotor...

did you buy real brake pads or 15 dollar parts master pads like me..? tongue.gif

motorsports C springs... everything else i've looked at is either too stiff or nearly as soft as stock. i didn't want to drop the car too much either. my OE struts/shocks should suffice for now... the price was icing on the cake... btw, i've got a set of Maximum Motorsports subframe connectors in the mail... [ 23. August 2003, 02:05 PM: Message edited by: Four Wheel Drift ]

graemlins/thumb.gif i'll post pics if i survive this... tongue.gif

just so i don't hurt myself... redface.gif installing lowering springs on a late model mustang. what's the easiest way to do this? TIA... smile.gif

i'm curious, what exactly are you basing that evaluation on..? honestly, my brakes should probably hold up better, but until i get them working properly, it's a futile comparison... from what i can tell, both rear calipers are sticking. the driver's side caliper is especially bad. every time i get the car back something else breaks... come to ledges so i can lap you... tongue.gif

you are missing the point. i am having problems with the braking system that are accelerating the wear on my pads. the same thing would have happened regardless of me open tracking the car. comparing brake wear between our cars is pretty pointless too. our cars have different weights, calipers, pad materials, rotor sizes, brake biases, etc. if i drove an identical (or even similar) car to yours and i wasn't having problems with the system, it might be worthwhile to compare... lastly, thin rotors warp, not turned rotors. i had a minimal ammount of material removed to clean up the face of the rotor in preparation for fresh pads. i still have a large marjority of the rotor thickness left (i'll measure it if you'd like). somehow i don't think throwing away 1/4 worn rotors is a smart idea... and for clarrification, i asked if you had 18 to 24 hours of track use on your brakes because you said you had 3 to 4 times the track time as me on your car. i had 6 good hours of track use on my brakes... lighten up. you'd criticize my driving technique if i couldn't steer a car with broken tie rods... tongue.gif

got the front rotors turned, and they cleaned up nicely. even after being turned, they weren't even remotely close to the wear indicators. i put fresh pads on the front as well... a good, hard stop will quiet the rear pads, but as i said before, the calipers are hanging up and the pads are rubbing constantly, so it comes right back. btw, i put new pads on the rear as well, and turned the rotors... car is still under warranty, so i'm taking it in to get the rear calipers looked at... smile.gif

did you even read my post? and you had 18 - 24 hours of track time on your brakes?

i'm having brake problems myself... since the rear brakes were completely gone, i decided to pull the fronts off and replace them as well. the front brakes should wear faster, correct? i pulled the fronts off and the pads aren't even half worn yet... went to check the rears again, and the calipers are hanging up! the pads have also glazed over from rubbing on rotors so much and they squeak whenever i don't have the brakes applied. that explains why my rear brakes only lasted 25,000 miles. back to the dealer i go... on a lighter note, it seems my front pads have held up fine with our trip to ledges. hopefully the rear brakes will follow suit when i get the calipers fixed/replaced... smile.gif

get some simple green, let them soak a bit... i'll be down this weekend, want some help? smile.gif

who sells them, and how much do they run a set? still shopping... didn't realize good pads were so expensive... redface.gif

haven't been able to find anywhere that sells hawk race pads, any ideas where i can look? and how much do the blacks usually run a set?

the HPS is more of an upgraded street pad if i remember correctly. better than a stock pad, but i'm looking for more... i was looking at the HP+ pads a while back as an option. from what i've read they're easy to use and not terribly hard on rotors, but again, they may not hold up to sustained abuse with my heavy street car. if i change my mind and decide to use the new pads on the street, the HP+ pads might be a workable choice... like i said before, dust and noise are of no concern. really looking for a light to medium duty racing pad. anyways, what's a good place (price wise) to buy performance brake pads? btw, i'm also looking for braided lines, so any recommendations there as far as brands..? thanks again... smile.gif

i'll start with a little background info. the car is a 2002 ford mustang GT. i've got twin piston aluminum calipers on ventilated rotors up front, with single piston calipers and solid rotors in the rear. the car should weigh right around 3200 pounds... up until now the brakes have been ok. they've supplied a decent amount of stopping power, nothing awe inspiring, but enough for day to day driving and a little fun on the street. anyways, just got back from my first open track day at nelson ledges. six hours of road racing has completely destroyed the factory pads, which had 24k miles of street driving (lots of highway miles) on them beforehand. now i'm looking at a set of "race" pads. any thoughts? experience with a particular brand you'd like to share? not really looking for an all out race pad, just something with more brake torque, fade resistance, and durability. dust and noise are NOT a concern, but rotor wear is. i do not want something that will destroy the rotors. guess i'm looking for more of an intermediate pad, with acceptable pad and rotor wear... thanks in advance... smile.gif [ 29. July 2003, 10:01 PM: Message edited by: Four Wheel Drift ]

i will agree, the 2.8 sucks... my S10 has one...

to get a crank knife edged? probably A LOT... tongue.gif getting the crankshaft journals ground and polished isn't too terribly expensive if i recall. you might check with a dedicated crank shop. i assume you're getting the block and crank cleaned/magnafluxed too... you planning on any other machine work? machine work is expensive regardless, so pay the extra cash and go somewhere you can trust...

what'd you break now..? tongue.gif

if you find a place with good prices on a T56, let me know. i'm looking to do the swap as well later on down the road. the 6th gear overdrive goes a long way towards making steep rear gearing livable on the street...

T56 transmissions are NOT cheap by any means. i wouldn't bother with one unless you plan to push big HP. the gear ratios are also different, so a rear gear swap might also be in order if you do the swap... a T56 won't just bolt in either. i know a few magazines have detailed T5 to T56 swaps, so a little research is in hand if you're serious. chances are you'll need at least a new bellhousing (if they even make one that will bolt a T56 to your engine) and tranny crossmember. you may also have to mess with the driveshaft length as well as the clutch and all its supporting hardware... if saving money and time is important, just rebuild the original T5 or get another one from the junkyard...

that's what i was thinking. when exactly do the SOHC heads become a real power bottleneck under boost, anyone know? you mean my powdered metal, cracked cap connecting rods won't handle 1000 HP..? redface.gif