Tinman

Bring lots of money j/k, I'll line up with you for some fun.

i asked the guy and he said no. He only wants to haul fast cars. -Clark on Matts computer

More than happy to help. I'm very impressed how quickly you are picking up on both the aluminum and stainless steel. All that painting must have helped with your torch control :thumbup:

Sorry Max, not working.

Shawn, do have an aftermarket cam?

I wouldn't worry about aerodynamics at that speed.

No AIM in the garage, pm'd you my number

Yes and yes. But if you do not change the rear ratio, your speedometer will be off. Also, it is much easier to swap the entire differential than just the gear set. If your car does not have a limited slip diff, look for an S4 GXL diff, they can usually be found for $50 or so.

Autos are 3.90, manuals 4.10.

Preferably not a live performance, a MP3 file would be tits. Todd Snider Talkin' Seattle grunge rock blues

Nice. Diggin' the brake ducts.

Generally you are looking for flush with the deck to .010" in the hole.

The TII tranny and driveshaft are worth some money along with the engine of course. You won't need any engine brackets, it is easier to use the accessories from the new engine. You will need some of the wiring harness, don't cut anything yet!!! The TurboII engine harness is worth a little money if it is in good shape. It can be removed while still retaining the wires that you will need. Spend plenty of time searching on V8RX7.com and don't piss off the rotary fans, they can be very helpful and they may be interested in some of the parts you will not need. Edit, Here is a page that describes the wire splicing if swapping an LS1, it's still useful if going with something other than LS1

Everything you need to know can be found here

Thanks, I'll get back to you tomorrow

Casting number or year of production please.

Sorry, but I needed to correct this before anyone gets the wrong idea. Mild steel is by far the best readily available material to make header flanges from. Cracking is not an issue with mild steel and potential to warp is much less than any of the stainless alloys.

Not sure if it still available... http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34936&highlight=powerglide

You will not find a set of 23 degree heads that will make any power in that range.

If you can wait a day, McMaster Carr

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/100_1205s.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/100_1206s.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/100_1208s.jpg Rolla did one hell of a job smoothing out some sections of the fire wall and crawling around the jungle gym to lay down some pretty paint. I'll need some shades to work on the engine now:cool:

Removed the side impact bars from the doors, replaced the moonroof with a lexan panel, and a few other odds and ends that should bring the weight back to what it was without the cage.

I went with D.O.M. mild steel .120" wall. I was planning on going with chromoly but it would have only saved ~30lbs. I decided it was not worth the added expense and labor.

Well to be truthful, my son was too busy dieing for your sins, I took care of this project myself

The cage is done. http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/100_1186s.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/100_1190s.jpg http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t55/tinman_015/100_1199s.jpg Unfortunately it looks like the engine will go back in without any improvements.