tristanlee85

I just got the new engine running, but I'm having some trouble keeping it running. I'd like to see if I can get someone on here to come over one night and give me a hand. I'm using the MegaSquirt so if you have knowledge on that it'd be helpful. A second set of hands or eyes would definitely be of great help to me.

Same here. I used to get breakfast every morning from McDonald's, more fastfood on my lunch break, and snacks at night. Now it's down to ham sandwiches and home-prepared meals. That goes from ~$80 a week to $10 in spending.

Gas is cheap. I wish it were higher.

Sounds like my shitty job minus the overtime pay. I work 8 to 6 everyday plus sometimes on the weekends. I don't get paid for anything over 40 hours so technically anything after Thursday is me working for free. Finding another job just hasn't worked out for me yet either.

More toys and more progress. I received my Agility coilovers today so not more cheap-ass $80 eBay suspension. I also welded up a battery tray out of scrap steel laying around. It might not be pretty outside the car, but for $20 including wire cost, works for me. http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/v2/battery_relocate/00006.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/v2/battery_relocate/00001.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/v2/battery_relocate/00002.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/v2/battery_relocate/00003.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/v2/battery_relocate/00005.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/v2/battery_relocate/00007.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/v2/battery_relocate/00008.jpg

Eww someone coughed up a hairball.

MsnsE for now until the engine is broken in. I'm going to use my original fuel and spark maps and once it's broken in I have my MS2 processor sitting right here.

That was the stock pre-formed hose. I replaced it with a flexible one so it isn't touching it now.

Well I used the hammer and a socket to remove them. Using that method to install them just makes the keepers bounce off the retainer when I hit it with the hammer.

Looks nice. I like the black better than the chrome, but either way, they both look good.

There was a shipping error with the one I bought and it'll probably be another week before it comes in. I'd like to get this done sooner than later too. I'm willing to put down a deposit on the tool as well if requested. I don't want to buy one and then return it either. The tool looks similar to: http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/images/lis36200.jpg I guess one of the big clamp kinds will work too, but they take too much time to use.

I'm talking about the studs into the block. Not the nuts after the head is on. ARP recommends no more than 60 ft lbs though I know of people who have went to 70 or so, but in either way this isn't my issue. Those nuts didn't come loose. The studs themselves were loose in the block after I took the head off.

I think one of the reasons I lost compression on my engine was due to head pitting but also because I think there was an issue with my head studs. From what I read from ARP, the studs should be finger tight into the block. When you tighten the nuts down, you do a 22ft lb, 37ft lb, then 60 ft lb tightening pattern (which I did). When I removed the head, 4 of the 10 studs were loose from the block. I don't feel like putting them back in again finger tight so does anything think 10 to 15 ft lbs of the studs would be too much?

In my first attempt to start it I decided to record a video to capture any epic failure. Unfortunately, the failure happened after the video. Anyway, un-edited and un-entertaining... http://thumbs.streetfire.net/7e215628-3ce2-4c54-a321-9a8c0003914d.jpg

So is there any place you can park without getting escorted out or towed if you simply want to eat?

Fowler looked at it and says it's about .020" to .030" deep at the worst spot. Instead of .040", I told them if they have to go beyond .030" to weld it. He was surprised it ran as long as it did.

I'm dropping it off at Fowler tomorrow so they can inspect it. Thanks guys.

I saw that. Eek.

Well the tensioner would make up for it, but I guess what he is saying as far as possible hidden damage, the head is probably junk.

So should I not even worry about trying to have it inspected? I know people that shave up to .050" when building high compression engines and then also shave the timing chain cover down as well to match. Bolt holes still line up. I have another head that came off my engine that was running before and it's perfect. The only problem is it isn't ported and polished like this was so that's a big killer right there.

I am a completely idiot and didn't inspect the surface of the head as close to what I thought I did. After running the car for 20 minutes, it lost compression and coolant went into the oil. There is some pitting on the bottom of the head, but the pitting in the picture before is the worst of it all. It's hard to judge by a picture, but I did my best to measure it with some toys from school and it looks like decking the head .020" will remove that. .040" is the max I want to go for compression reasons, but I'd like opinions here. I'd hate to junk the head as it's already ported and polished. http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/v2/4-23-08/00012.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/v2/4-23-08/00013.jpg

Sorry. I didn't see that. I just saw the full kit. Anyway, by the foot is cheaper. Thread is done now. Thanks everyone.

Nope. It runs good. I figured that would be the outcome though.

I didn't think about checking them. I'd rather it be someone local so I can get the car running sooner than later.

I already have the tray and tie down so wiring is the last thing I need. Those look to be pretty cheap. Thanks!