tristanlee85

Bump for new info in first post.

I think I have 1 or 2 4ft straight pieces. It's aluminized steel.

I was out and about so I didn't see this until now. I'm not sure who that person is. A 1 day notice for something like this is a little hard too. I'll probably just do it myself. What's a little more rust going to hurt?

Instead of creating a new thread, I'll edit this. Turns out this is more of a task than I had anticipated. Here are pictures of the damage: http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/header/00001_01.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/header/00002_01.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/header/00004_01.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/header/00003_01.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/header/00005_01.jpg And the worst: http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/header/00001_02.jpg So I have been informed by a member of this board as well as doing my own research that I could potentially be fucked due to the material of the header. They used 304SS and I guess should have used 321SS? That I am unsure of, but it could be valid. I guess the proper procedure to fix this so it lasts for than 3000 miles would be to bead blast the whole thing (inside and out), spray it down with acetone and let it dry, and then proceed to weld. After that is all done I could add some braces to it, but I think cleansing it and then re-welding it seems to be my best option as a new header isn't an option. With that said, would anyone be willing to help me with this little project? I will definitely compensate for your time and labor. I just don't have the tools to weld those tight places. A shop would rape me in cost.

This sounds nice. Maybe it's been posted, but how do the prices compare to Pick n Pull?

I was only half-serious about my above post. I'd be interested in the dyno, but I'm also a non-Mustang owner. I'm willing to give you business that day though. Oh, and I would not be participating in the burn-out contest.

Oh I'm in for the un-tuned dyno.

And also about 10 whole octane points higher too. I got an average of 36mpg in my car to NC and back on 93 gasoline. As soon as I got back in town I switched back to E85. I'm hoping to get 25 - 28mpg. $3.94 / 36mpg = $0.10 / mile (E10) $3.01 / 25mpg = $0.12 / mile (E85) I can get 400+ miles on a tank of E10 and I drive about 170 miles per week. Assuming I only drive to work, I am spending ~ $3.40 extra a week on fuel by using E85 as opposed to E10.

No, it just happened to fall out of the sky.

Psht. I took it slow as hell. After seeing my friend wreck, my brakes going out after getting hot, and having another life in my car to worry about, I figured it would be best to enjoy the scenery of some place besides OH and a coffin. http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a216/ProDarwin/saturn%20wreck/IMG_1364copy.jpg http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a216/ProDarwin/saturn%20wreck/IMG_1366copy.jpg http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a216/ProDarwin/saturn%20wreck/IMG_1371copy.jpg

Here are pictures my girlfriend took at the Dragon. It was a blast. The car did really well. 37mpg down to NC and I'm still on the same tank that I filled up on before leaving NC. So far it's 40mpg+. It was nice being able to actually meet everyone we talk to on a daily basis and to cruise with people who have the same interests as you. I have a video as well, but I need to take time to make something good from it. http://www.cfcoding.com/totd/ http://www.photoreflect.com/pr3/orderpage.aspx?pi=04RK00S6001662&po=1663 http://www.photoreflect.com/pr3/orderpage.aspx?pi=04RK00S6001663&po=1664 http://www.photoreflect.com/pr3/orderpage.aspx?pi=04RK00S6001664&po=1665 http://www.photoreflect.com/pr3/orderpage.aspx?pi=04RK00S6001665&po=1666 As we were going up the Dragon Friday night, we came upon a wreck and unfortunately it was one of our own. He was going about 55mph around a 30mph turn and over-steer got the best of him. The car rolled 5 times, went up an embankment and was pointing the direction he originally came from. The driver was in a 4-point harness and suffered not a scratch, but the passenger was in a regular seat and cracked a vertebrate and had a large cut on his head. It took about 45 minutes to remove him from the car with the jaws of life, but he was released from the hospital a day later with only a neck brace. It's something I would definitely do again.

Another +1. The car handles 100x better and the steering wheel is finally straight after about 3 years.

SOHCs are known for head warping, but it's not like it happens on every engine. Maybe every other engine.

I haven't tried launching it, but it first there wouldn't be enough load to probably make 5psi. I will lose traction through 2nd and then they come lose again around 5500 rpms in 3rd. When the time comes that I'm at the track, that's when I will invest in some DRs. Until then, I will enjoy the rolling power and the MPG when not beating on it.

http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/v2/almost_there.PNG For what it's worth, the same calculation on my last setup was 19whp lower than the actual dyno results. Now if I can go from 11:1 to 12:1 and 20* to say 29* I may have it made.

What an ass.

You won't need to adjust the display unless you want to read something different. I have the AEM UEGO that reads AFR by default, but I switch it to display lambda on the gauge just to learn it. It still outputs 0 - 5V to my ECU. When I first switched over the car was really lean, but I just bumped up my required fuel value until I got stoich back to 14.7.

I'm not sure if you got your answer or not so here is my $.02. I run E85 in my car. No blend with gasoline other than the obvious 15% already blended. That puts me at 9.7:1 stoich. Thats close to 103 octane. I'm not sure on the calculation to determine your stoich value, but you will need to increase the fuel. Going from E10 to E85 requires an approximate fuel increase of 47%. I don't know how your car is set up as far as wideband to the ECU, but I'm guessing the voltage output or display is 0 - 5V for gasoline AFR. Assuming the output is for gasoline, you still tune for your desired gas AFRs since the sensor reads lambda, which is the same for gasoline, ethanol, methanol, etc.

This sucks. I've been there once and mine was as little as squealing my tires from a light and never going above the speed limit to get a street racing charge. It is no surprise though that this happened, especially when you stop traffic on a freeway. That's just asking for it. I've never raced since then and don't plan on it. Maybe other will start thinking the same way?

Do they not teach physics in high school anymore?

That is a before graph.

Ok, a whole new engine between ignition sources.

Yeh this is sweet. My tach signal is so smooth compared to stock and I don't have to worry about my timing being +-5* from what I have it set as. It's like a whole new engine.

I agree.

I finally ditched the GM DIS because no matter how much I messed with dwell or spark duration, anything after about 6500 rpms would have a big dip in timing. The only downfall of this is the EDIS doesn't allow you to go below 10* advance so that may hinder flat-shifting and launch control, but we shall see. http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/v2/ms2_upgrade/edis_coils_mounted.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/v2/ms2_upgrade/edis_module_mounted.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/turbo/ms2_upgrade/edis_with_wires.jpg http://www.plastikhosting.net/uploads/tristanlee85/ford_edis/dyno10.jpg