desperado

I forgot to ask what the horsepower rating on the 3 phase motors are. I need this to figure out the phase converter. Also, for the ones that are converted. The used 3 phase motors can be used for phase converters as well. I am curious as to what you are going to be doing with the old motors that are being pulled.

What I menat was it feels like there are lockers in the front and rear pumkins. It leans over as you corner and the tires probably hop a little. If that is what you are talking about then it is caused by the lack of a differential in the transfer case. You of course understand the need for a differential in the front and rear end. When cornering the tires turn two different speeds. Well the Front and rear axles spin two different speeds as well, the rear goes faster than the front. What is really happening is as you are turning the truck drops the nose because of the front and rear being locked together, you will only notice this on asphalt and concrete, and in a hard turn. Some newer trucks and the AWD cars have a diff in the transfer case, that allows the front and rear to spin at two different speeds. That is why they can be full time AWD.

How about unconverted. I have 3 phase in my garage at this point to run various other things, rotary phase converters are the bomb.

Was there ever a firm price set on these?

It feels like that because ther is not differential in the transfer case.

I have seen several setup's that used a WOT and a pushbutton, it's wired in such a way that you can't get the system to fire unless the button is pushed AND the WOT switch is activated. I have seen guys run with a WOT switch and NO other switch, not even an arming switch, that I would never recomend, switches can stick, and especially with a wet kit, you can fire the system with the throttle plates closed and spin the motor apart, and never touch the throttle. Not having at least an arming switch is just being stupid, and a good way to get killed. If the car's it gear, the brakes aren't gonna hold it if the system comes on, and if it sticks when the car is running down the track, road or what ever, it's like having the gas pedal stick only worse, at a certain point, even if you kill the spark to the motor by shutting the key off, the motor will run on because of the preignition that all sprayed motor are prone to, you might not even realize that you are experiencing it, but it's there and without a way to kill the spray, it will hurt you.

If for some reason the transfer case had not fully engaged into 4 wheel low when you put the tranny into drive, it engaged, and with the gear ratio on those in low, it will make a hell of a bang. The thing to do is try it again as see if it does the same thing. It shouldn't, also, it is very important that you not attempt to drive the truck on asphault in 4 wheel low. It can cause the transfer case to bind up requiring it to be removed. I have seen transfer cases bound up to the point that with all the bolts removed holding the case together, when hit witha hammer to pop the bind loose, the transfer case jumped 4 foot off the concrete where I was working on it. Yours possibly was partially bound up and putting it in gear unbound it violently, which is typically the case when a transfer case gets unbound it's always violent. The other reason this may have been the case is that if the touch motor was not operating, and I would guess that people were test driving the car before you, running a transfer case in 4low with the front axle unlocked can also cause binding in some transfer case. That in 2 high may not even be noticed.

I guess I still have questions about running a dry kit. Scares me really. Is it really that big a deal to run a wet kit on an injected car. I realize that there is a cost savings, and if you aren't really looking to go big then it's an option, but to me, unless you have a fuel pressure gauge and watch it close. I could see the motor going lean really quick if the fuel pump went dry for a second or something. But I suppose that it could happen with a wet kit as well, but you can put a pressure switch on th fuel line on a wet kit and kill the spray if the fuel pressure drops. If you are going higher pressure on the dry kits, then I am not sure that is doable. Also, how does running your rail pressure up effect your gas milage and the fuel mixture when not spraying??

Rotten 2.2 I bet. the timing belt is causing that if it is indeed a 2.2 motor. Been down that road with those several times with the Reliant I had and a couple od Horizon's too. I would do a quick compression check too, it could possibly be the head gasket. Iam betting if you ain't got smoke, that it's between 2 and 3 if that is the case.

If that isn't working I bet it's not installed right, I have run one of those on a motor that ran 5 inches of vacuum at idle (factory stock is typically 18 to 20) there is a check valve that goes inbetewwn the manifold and the tank, Make sure that it's in correctly.

The motor is, from what I am told a 94 caprice motor. The thing that is scaring me about the deal is that the car was used as a taxi. So I am figuring that it's got some miles on it. Not that it's a big deal but it still bothers me I guess. I am thinking that I read that the exhaust manifolds are interchangeable with older motors, So I am wondering if older headers will work too. The 350 that was in the Camaro had some stuff done to it, and I am hoping that at least I can use those headers on this motor. As far as a air cleaner, I am sort of pickled about that. I have a 6 inch cowl induction hood that is on the car. And I do sort of like it. But routing a cowl induction into a LT-1 is gonna be damn near impossible, at least without a 180 turn in the air intake pipe. Any Ideas??? Also just found somehting else out interesting. There is a 265 displacement motor, "Baby LT-1" that came in the caprices from 94 to 96 [ 20. November 2003, 08:55 AM: Message edited by: Desperado ]

I don't think that will work. But there are other ways to take care of that problem. There are vacuum resivor (sp) tanks that will keep the vacuum up to the brake booster even though the motor is not providing good vacuum at the time that you are braking. Grab a Jegs catalog, look where that cams are listed. (Page 39, bottom right in the new catalog). $35 bucks and you can save yourself alot of time. These are also real handy if you are running forced induction, they don't tend to have alot of vacuum either.

Gonna have to be left pretty much as is for now. I plan to do a cleanup on the ports, match the intake and heads and maybe a cam. BTW, is that a roller cam or not??) But I am hoping that this isn't some high mileage oil burner that I can fog for skeeters with. I am planning to do a leak down and compression tests on it while it's on the stand but I can't tell everything about it till it's in and running of course. Leads me to something else, I am considering pulling the 350 turbo, and putting a gear box back into the car, it is an original Z-28 M21 car, with the big 10 bolt posi rear (4.10 I believe) I sold the original tranny and lakewood bellhousing quite a while ago, before I even owned the car in reality, the previous owner traded me the muncie for a different 350 turbo I had. Is that gonna cause other problems with the LT-1 conversion????

Hmmmm, 260 HP, well that isn't a wonderful rating. It looks like that between needing to get a new radiator, the fact that it's 260 HP and I assume that the cost of hop up parts for an LT-1 are probably not cheap. I may just see if this guy has something else that is more reasonable. I don't know though, I realy don't know much about LT-1's at all what do you think ???

I am working a deal to trade off my 80 malibu as a rolling chassis for a taxi cab LT-1. The motor is stated to run, I am getting the harness and CPU of course as well. My question is this. What am I going to run into with putting that motor in front of a turbo 350 tranny and setting it in a 1980 Camaro. I have not seen the motor yet, but I figure it's an Opti-spark. I do know it has cast heads. I have a fully outfitted shop. A background in automotive wiring (wired several hot rods for ppl from scratch) and heat in the shop. But, I don't know what I am getting into here, I have steered clear of computer motors up to this point, but I am figuring that it's a set it in, plug it in and other than a few silly shit things I will be good to go. The one thing I really don't know is reverse flow cooling, I think the LT-1 has it. Will it work with a 1980 style radiator or not?? Help me out guys, I am entering uncharted waters here.

If it will not go into 1st at all, even with the motor shut off, it is either a linkage problem, or internal transmission problems. Syncros only work when the motor is running. I don't know the specifics about your transmission. But typically, 1st and 2nd share a shift linkage, at least on RWD cars. That being said. I would get underneath the car and have some one attempt to put it into 1st and 2nd to see if there is anything that stands out. I dug a dead cat out of a pickup once for a guy that didn't have reverse becasue when he hit the cat it somehow got jammed in the linkage, no idea how though.

I remember reading something in HotRod or one of the other rags about a guy with a stock lower end in a Formula firebird screwing around and getting into the either really low 10's or maybe a really high 9. Either way, he was a good bit over 600 motor horse. NA motor, with a factory lower end. By factory, he claimed that he had NEVER had the pan off the motor. It listed a bunch of shit that he did to the heads, then switched heads, cams, intakes, all sorts of shit. And was spraying it. If I remember right the last pass he made, knowing there wasa new motor on a stand he sprayed it really hard and did the low pass. But I can't see why, unless you are planning to run the shit out of it all the time, it will not hold 600 or better, at least for a while.

Well the arm switch keeps you from going to the nitrous all the time as does the WOT switch in the line, as far as spraying before the turbo, if it backfires, it can take the housing apart, and very easily break fins. But if we are talking drag only applications, spray into the exhaust, that will bring a turbo up really fast, but can not be done for any length of time because the heat levels will go critical very quickly. And I guess that spraying with a pressure switch, through a WOT switch, while it will not spray unless you are at WOT, is only an option.

yes there are alot of fancy digital controllers, and they are neat, have pretty buttons and a price tag to go with them. There is another way though. It requires a pressure switch that will work at low pressures, say 4 to 20 PSI. You install that in the manifold so that when you hit a certain boost level,the nitrous disengages. Say 6 PSI, maybe 8. It will need adjusted to your liking. This can also be accomplished with a window switch, but it's not as acurate, reason is that if you are at high RPM, and coasting, then nail it, even though the turbo is spinning down and needs brought bad up to speed, you may be above the RPM level that the window switch will allow the system to operate. The other thing with running the system like this is you can install a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) switch to fire the system, then a toggle switch to arm the system. No button to hold down that way. The other option, if you want to get hairy with it, is throw a 50 shot to it at low rev's for more torque out of the hole, then switch it out with a pressure switch, then at 5000 RPM or so bring it back in to just above above your shift point with a window switch. You want the window switch because if you miss a shift, with that much nitrous flowing, the car can keep reving past the ignition limiter because of pressures involved in the cylinders lighting off the mixture without the plugs firing. Sort of like dieseling, but far worse on the motor. The other option is to buy a second set of solinoids and a fogger nozzle, jet it to 40 or 50 horse, and fire that circuit to increase torque. Drop it out with the pressure switch. Then have a second stage, being the regular system, set it to 100 shot or what ever, and have it come in with the window switch. I say all this figuring that you know what your motor can take, and will spray with some restraint. A motor can take more spray at higher RPM, but I would advise restraint as you can break things, so I ain't responsible if you get nutz. One other thing, NEVER SPRAY BEFORE A TURBO, always spray into the manifold, doing this wrong is bad, very bad. As mentioned before, backfires in a turbo are not good at all.

Nope. Take a coat hanger, bend the smallest hook in the end that you can get, push the door panel back from the window crank and hook the metal clip and pull it out. I had several of these tools I made up while I was a locksmith. As far as the locks themselves. The passenger one needs soaked down good with WD-40, DO NOT USE GRAPHITE IN A LOCK. IT WILL GUM IT UP!!! This even goes for the stuff that is sold for locks. Use LOTZ of WD-40. The other lock will most likely need pulled and cleaned. There is no way to clean the insides of the lock without removing that faceplate, and it has to gbe destroyed to be removed. But I would pull the lock and take it to a locksmith as it will be alot cheaper to do that than have him pull it.

there is a couple of ways of doing that. the phase converter thing. Find out what the horsepower rating on the motors is and let me know. I run a 3 phase welder at home on a converter, which would be a bit much for this job. But it is very possible and not overly expensive. I built my converter myself and saved about $400 doing it, so don't just go buy one as they are 20 in parts and 200 in cost.

Is that an air bag car???? ANd have you ever taken down a column. Reason I ask is there are issues with both. I was a locksmith for a while and got really good at taking columns apart. And could pass a few pointers along if would like.

OR....... change teh TPS (throttle Position Sensor)

OK, it required alot of effort, but it is work the trouble. You need to start by sanding it down smooth, by hand. Then using a buffing wheel, and jewlers roughe, polish it to desired luster. By I am telling you. It's gonna take time because of it being cast as one piece. And the recessed areas.

don't polish, paint the insides. Slowly, and with several coats, the paint will fill in the voids and make the runners smooth. It's much easier than trying to get in there and buff the walls down. But by the same token, what would you want to do this to begin with, I bet that it you flowed the runner, polished it till it was smooth as glass, and reflowed it. The amount of change is going to be so small that it will make basically no difference.