desperado

OK, well those wouldn't have to be cretified welds because they are not structural safety welds, but you still need to TIG it, and use good grade filler wire on the welds. There are a number of grades of filler wire for TIG and MIG welding, ranging from one step above coat hanger wire, to MC grade, which is vacuum melted, metalerigically tested and certified wire. It comes in little vacuum sealed bags and is $90 a pound. Now there is the cheap stuff to. But look at the cost or your materials, time and the fact that these are exposed welds, buy the good stuff and do it right.

And if your weldor (person) gets even close to it with copper coated filler wire, tell him to go piss off and find some one that knows how to weld cro mo. Reason is this Cro Mo has a granular structure, and copper will melt and run in between the granular part of the steel during welding, it makes the weld and the parent metal weak and will crack it internally for sure. I assume that you are either building a cage, or a complete tube chassis. In either case, is there any reason specifically that you prefer to not use mild steel tubing. It welds much easier, can be MIGed and is less expensive. Not only to buy but to have welded. Cro Mo a bit stronger and lighter, but unless you really need Cro Mo to meet spec then I would consider mild steel.

One sugestion, since he is wanting to go with the stock motor and the like it sounds as he is wanting to restore the car as opposed to simply building a hot rod or something of that nature. I would find someone that specifically restores cars, not just a body shop someplace that will put some new metal in it here and there and not put the time into it that it deserves.

ok time to confuse the thing. Take out all but one stick of memory, disconnect the harddrive ribbon cable, the floppy cable, and any cards, other than the video card out of the machine and boot it. IF that don't get you at least into BIOS, you may have cooked something on the board.

there is a keystroke to get into BIOS, either F2 ot delete is typical. If you can get into BIOS, do a load default settings in BIOS. That will typically take care of that.

Geeze, it can't be that bad. You all ain't never done one on a Cavalier, The thing is next to the floor, you have to get under the car to get to the lines. $150 bucks will get it done. PM me.

sounds like it's time to operate on the car. The switch that controls that is in the console on the parking brake. Pull the console up and find the switch, hang two wires on it and run them to another switch in to console or elsewhere that it's out of sight if needs be. then just flip the switch. It may run off the switch that turns on the brake indicator on the dask as well so it might light up when the head lights go out. But that would be a simple way of doing it.

I am putting a price of $1000 on it. I have seen them sell that price, but I am totally flexable on that number. If that is too much tell me what you are willing to give.

Bump once more.

I would sugest cleaning the machine off with Adaware, then loading Popup Stopper. Free Surfer and Adaware will not stop popups, they clean up what's already on the PC. Well at least that is how Adaware is. Try that and see what happens. And remember that popup stopper is only good for 30 days as a trial unless you get a licensed version, and that will cause it to quit working.

alright, all bullshit aside. Why not a Honda it was a 4 banger in a FWD car so it still applys. First off, if the car is an automatic. Then you can do it under the car, with the motor in the car. Standards this doesn't apply because you can't ge the motor and tranny far enough apart to drop the crank out. If it's a stick, you have two options. Pull the motor and tranny as a unit. sperate them and do the bearings, or pull just the tranny and do the bearings under the car. Now. As far as messing with just doing the bearings, I really would not sugest it. When I spun a bearing in my Reliant, I bought a crank kit. By the time you pull the crank, find it's damaged, get it turned, buy bearings and put it all back together, you have three days in it. A crank kit, you just swap it. If you are quick with the tools it will take 10 hours of work I would guess. If not or you run into something, you will have two days in it, but that is it. I would also sugest swapping the oil pump at that point too. I figure that its got some miles on it. And something caused the bearings to fail to begin with. As far as phyically doing it in the car, if it's an automatic. Just seperate the motor and tranny, and wedge a block of wood in between to keep em apart, but be aware that it's not a perfect senario and if you get it bouncing around the wood can come out. If your hand is in between it will tend to hurt a little bit. Other than that, remember to use jack stands and all that stuff. Because even if we flame your ass, we still all appericate you being on here and would have to break in some other sucker to flame if you dropped a car on your head. Other than that. THe other thing I would say is get a Haynes or Chilton manual for the car an have it handy. Not so much for the bearing swap its self. But getting the cam timing right and other wierd shit that you would not expect. I fell victim to this myself several times. Specifically when I did the crank kit. I had the cam timing 2 teeth off. I assumed that a hole in the cam gear was a timing mark and it wasn't. I fucked with that car for 3 days trying to get it to run right. A buddy brought over him big Chilton book, and it 30 min we had it timed and running. As funny as this sounds, the book is gold, I learned to fix cars myself with a Chilton book, a broken car and very few tools from JC Penny's (Yes, for those that remember PennCraft Tools, I had a set, dad's actually and still have a few here and there) [ 31. December 2003, 08:53 AM: Message edited by: Desperado ]

Damn, I got tears in my eyes. bearing dude just got OWNED!!!

Must be a New Rome cop.

This is the technology that TIG welders have been using for ever. There is never any contact with a TIG torch, the ARC is established by a high voltage pulse across the electrode to the work (material being welded). The ionizes the air (Argon actually) and the torch ignites. This si actually really cool technology even if it is old. I wish I would have thought of it. I will say this though, with the $22 grand price tag. doing away with all the processors and extra stuff, and just building an ignition that fires like this. Especially with a DC source to each plug, would not be difficult or overly expensive. HMMMM gets me thinking.

Most likely a multivoltage power supply. Externatl to remove a heat source from the unit. Pretty good ides actually.

The R4 is programmed to at a specific pressure, regardless of gear position to shift. If you put a shift kit in it this little issue is typically resolved. In fact I believe that B&M sells a kit that specifically states that it will lock out automatic shifting unless the selector is in that gear. It will also allow you to downshift into any gear regardless of speed. You of course realize that most autos will no go into 1st above a certain speed, that kit changes that as well and I think it's marketed as a standard shift kit. Now this isn't a manual valve body either. If you put it in drive, it will auto shift, at the rate that you program into it with the kit.

Actually I do. Find some one that has a smaller carb and trade em. Not knowing anything about the motor you have, or the intake, I can still say honestly that an 850 Holley is a bit big. That is unless you are making 600 HP with it or you expect to spin it at say 9000 RPM or so. I figure that neither is the case. Here is what will happen. In the small end, lower RPM's the motor will be very rich, to the point that I figure that you will be washing down the cylinder walls with fuel, there will be gas in the oil is short order (which I bet was happening before too), so in order to get it leaned out you would need to put small jets in it, to the point that on the big end (upper RPM's) you would lean out and at best loose power, or maybe even damage the motor. I am going to make a couple asumptions, one is that you are running a dual plane intake. The other is that this carb is a double pumper, finally that this is a hot street engine, in front of an automatic tranny. Now any of these three things with an oversized carb makes things bad. Add two of these things and you are replacing the rings on the motor. If you are interested in getting a carb that is better suited, and getting it properly tuned for your car. Let me know. I have several 650's both double pumper and vacuum secondary, and will help you out. I also have one of those eldibrock carbs that is a set and forget type of thing but I do personally prefer Holleys, biggest thing is being able to tune then correctly. If you are really pressed to get it going on that carb. Disable the secondary's, either remove the linkage rod that connects the secondary butterfly, on a doublepumper or if it's a vac secondary carb. Ziptie the secondary shut. PM me if you want my number and you can give me a call and we can get together and fix this if you want some help.

Right, you can also get valves with a longer stem, if you looking the performance catalogs, you will see valves that are + .100 or + .200, those are long valves, then you can run a stiffer spring, or a longer spring and get better lift numbers without the coil bind. As far as going to a .700 lift, you are talking about new valves, springs, aftermarket rockers and possibly a different length of push rod to ge that to work right. I have heard more than once of someone going out and buying a cam with silly ass lift like that and putting it in a otherwise stock engine and it tearing the shit out of there valve train. BTW, the other thing that you will need to do is run guides for that sort of lift and make sure that where the push rods come up through the head, that there is enough clearance for the rod. With that much lift you will get some side to side movement of the rods and if ther isn't enough clearance then you will bend your rods. There is alot that goes into running that sort of lift in a motor. And that doesn't cover the piston to valve clearances, and other things like where the flow increases with lift stop with a specific set of heads. Basically what I am saying is this, there is a level that you have more lift than the rest of the motor can take. Also, speaking of sky high lifts od .700 or so. This is serious drag racing motor stuff, and not for faint of heart or those without deep pockets. It will make tons of power in the upper RPM's but the low end streetablity will pretty much suck.

bump

You might talk to a boat shop if you have the steel fenders, Or you might even consider building up a mold yourself. It's not overly difficult to make a mold, basically you just use Plaster of Paris, and build a form deep enough. There is alot of info and howto's on the web for doing this. If you want to be really different, you could build carbon fiber fenders, Basically you just use carbon colth instead of fiberglass and use a clear resin ir you what the carbon fiber look.

EDITED: ADDED PICS http://www.foornet.net/images/lt1-1.jpg http://www.foornet.net/images/lt1-2.jpg http://www.foornet.net/images/lt1-3.jpg http://www.foornet.net/images/lt1-4.jpg http://www.foornet.net/images/lt1-5.jpg http://www.foornet.net/images/lt1-6.jpg [ 11. December 2003, 12:04 AM: Message edited by: Desperado ]

I am giving that some consideration on that. But With it being complete, with the computer and the like. It's value to the right person is considerably greater than a regular 350, and hopefully even a 454. But that is yet to be seen.

Anything been done to it? Is it stock, have bolt on speed stuff. More information please.

I have an LT-1, with the computer and harness, up for trade for performance parts for a chevy, or a complete big block. It was in a caprice, and I have verified that it is a 5.7L LT-1 and not a 4.3L L99. This does have cast iron heads, not aluminium, but I hear that the iron heads will port for better flow than the aluminum heads anyway, so all you loose is the weight advantage that is more than made up for with the power increase of the flow. PM me or post here if you are interested. I am putting a 40 over 350 together right now and will be looking for rods, roller cam and lifters, and heads for it as well, and like I said, I would rather trade it than sell it, money is fun but toys is better. There is an engine stand that can go with it if you do not have one. I will also consider other power adders, blowers or Nitrous systems. [ 08. April 2004, 12:07 AM: Message edited by: Desperado ]

Got to remember that runnin it rich, will put that unburnt fuel in the exhaust, and your EGT can get rather high.