Nate1647545505

Medina, Oh? That is about 20 minutes from my folks place in the CLE

haha sorry cheif, our compression is after the tb plate. the bypass system is built into the blower and intake manifold, no fun for us. p.s. did not get your pm as of 11:43est, 1st of june.

That should be a copier commercial

fixed smile.gif

stock software is virgin! you must penetrate!!

stock ecu can calculate fueling for about...700whp ish? Alot od DIY guys out there. Check out sr20tuning, and ztechz.net, and hybridz.org Locally, Joel and I are the only ones I know of? I'm sure there is more Socketing the ecu is cakewalk, ordering a chip is pretty easy too, its going through hex or disassembling op code to figure out where all the map points are. Or you can cheat and use some "free soft no charge!!!" programs from ja-pan. Compared to an SAFC its about the same price honostly, i like to tune in real time, using romulator - makes shit alotttt easier if road tuning and on a dyno. romulator is 180$, chip and a socket is about 20$ shipped. I don't know what mods are on Brandon's car but the stock maf is junk. If you already have to modify fueling, mind as well work with what you have, if you can. just my two cents, and if ever, please don't pay JWT prices, there is more information out there about injectors, resistor values, turbos, etc. Making money is one thing, raping someone is another. [ 01. June 2005, 04:38 PM: Message edited by: sleepers, inc. ]

The Z32 Mafs, or the Ford Cobra Maf are 70 something or maybe even 80mm in diameter. MAF's will 90% of the time become a restriction in the air path, even at mild boost levels. I'll take a gander at it over Matt's, if I don;t burn the place down before hand smile.gif

sure can, i just don't like piggy backs when you are able to use stock engine management and components that work perfectly fine. the s13 ecu is interesting to say the least, looks like it was one of the last ecu's to store its contents in an isolated prom - nothing a daughtboard can't fix. p.s. Brandon, look for a z32 MAF, any 90-96 300zxtt maff will do. smile.gif

I'll be at Matt's (Tinman's?) tomorrow around 7-8 hopefully.

it has the iron duke, 2.4, central injector

happy birthday you big fruitcake!

Soberism > Alcoholism

If the valve is before the MAF, it can be vented to atmosphere. If the valve is after the the MAF, it needs to be recirculated into the intake stream after the MAF Sheif might have said that, but I don't know the S something setup. If its typical Nissan, its a MAF based car, based on voltage. If you know the resolution and have a chart of the voltage per flow, no need to go standalone, the VQ table can be easily changed. Brandon, What engine (s series?) / ecu do you have? You may be able to ditch the sfac2. The BOV should have no effect on fueling if done correctly.

Teron, Life is like that sometimes, funny how the cheapest/simplest of parts can caus so much hell! Glad to hear the car is up!

drift!

He may, one day, be able to actually afford it. I would easily rock an Evo, great little buggy, but I'm not done with the General just yet.

you're still alive?

email it - itsn8dog@yahoo.com

With our cars boost is a relative term. The blower doesn't actually compress the air, more of....blows. The compression is done in the intake manifold. This means that if you have an exhaust or cam or other powertrain mods the number is differant. i don't know stock boost off hand, but its not hard to calculate... the stock pulley is 3.8" diameter, and the crank pulley is 7" diameter so.. 3.8" pulley, 6000 shift - 7/3.8=1.84 x 6000 = 11,052 blower rpm the m90 blows 90ci of air / rev. we can see how much it would flow at a perfect world stand point (no exhaust or intake restrictions) - 12 x 12 x 12 = 1728 CF per CI. So 11,052 rpm x 90ci per rev/1728 ci per cf = 576 CFM from the blower at free flow. we are trying to jam 576 CFM through 231CI engine...231/2/1728 x 6000 rpm = 401 CFM so absolute manifold pressure is 1.4 times atmospheric (729/401) and the boost is .4 atmosheres above atmospheric pressure or 14.7 psi x .4 = 6psi. As far as my car you have the wrong Nate. I have a black four door and its completely stock, and always will appear to be. one huge thing you are going to have to learn and face is knock. the blower heats the air tremendously and you wont get more power by adding smaller pullies if you dont have the proper mods. i dont know if you are seeing 300 crank hp [thats 220whpish], but usually takes a cam/rockers - intercooler - bunch of other stuff over 750$ to acheive 300whp. I dynoed 303 right after my tranny was replaced, kinda sucked because i was still learning about the car and differant things. my stock tranny started slipping after i did my intercooler nad the odometer rolled past 75k, but i never really launched my car hard, best 60ft was like, 1.88. mileage and burnouts kill the trans like woah. i would say do a shift kit as a first mod, the car will feel awesome. mid 13s at what trap?-give me a car you want to run with... i will talk to you on aim, honostly, the 1.8t platform will yield better results if you are looking for 300-400whp, per $.

until it explodes smile.gif

itss quite differant, it now requires a wheel block and jackstands. smile.gif

better gas mileage, probably better interior, the fact you can get it in a 5spd. By low end I mean...I was door to door with Mr. Stock's ZO6 from 40ish to 100? after 100 he put easily 2 cars on me. I was trapping 105ish and i think he traps 118. When I was blown I had bolt ons, stock cam and heads. Best time was a 12.75 @ 106 with 94 octane and drag radials. With all that low end power it kinda sucks, you just spin tires. if you like 60 roll ons, get a 1.8t and swap a t3/t4 50 trim on it. if you like racing from stop light to stop light, get a good set of tires and the gtp

both of my gtps have been 98s with over 50k on the clock and have always started and never left me on the side of the road. engines are tanks. if the car was beaten on, the tranny will show signs. if you take one for a test drive and it makes alot of clunking or the trans slips, walk away. race trannys are about 1,700$. Some other things to check for is the oil pan leak, GM has a TSB out to RTV the oil pan because of the material differance (cast iron block-oil pan) hot/cold expanding. The intake manifold gaskets are supposedly prone to leaking, but I dont keep my car stock long enough to tell. if the car smells like oil the valve cover gaskets are most likely seeping, they redesigned the gasket for the 04s and it works 1000x better. if you end up getting one, one of us local guys would scan it to see if you need to do some work on it before doing mods. Our motors can be modded to have some fun, they are mostly low end cars, I will warn you. the long gearing combined with a flat hp curve is kinda boring compared to the mid slap in the face of a 1.8t. biggest complaint I've had is the crappy interior and the headlights building condensation.