Nate1647545505

link me up scotty!!!

If anything, go DMH - http://www.dmhperformance.com/ecutout.htm

link me up scotty??

I've never heard of one that doesn't leak in it's lifetime They look neat, but I haven't seen any headlining data on their output. I think they are a great match (Maybe better?) to the twin screw, but in a different package.

like your face.........................

Check out Weber Racing Equipement, they have been doing LS1s for some time...

That car's engine management is the Chasey Lain of porn.

Triple Post so I may as well make it worth while.... Cetrifugal superchargers provide a very linear power, great for road racing since you will have no transitions to deal with sending you into a tire wall, and you'll have the RPMs up keeping you in near full power output. May not be the best choice for daily driving unless you are constantly winding out the motor. You may want to look into a Twinscrew design or...I can't believe I'm going to say this, but late generation roots (Eaton) setup. They will be an absolute blast to daily drive. You could impress friends by pulling tree stumps from their yard, tow their mobile homes away, etc. They may not give you the peak HP you desire, but they provide linear power from about 2,500rpm +. I would suggest getting an intercooled design if going roots. Also, roots/TS may give best efficiency off boost/light load -- their internal bypasses' are much larger comparitively to volute's of the turbo/centri compressors, giving the engine less of a hassle to eat air to overcome road load (all of the frictions). These chargers do take HP to drive as mentioned, but under load. Roots/TS bypass allows them to somewhat free-wheel, drawing a very small amount of crank hp. A well sized turbocharger falls between the two. Good throttle response, and most likely similar if not better total power over centri/roots. However, twinscrew still may provide the best torque output over the powerband.

6K$ could be a good start on a project car, keep the daily stock -- honda engineered it to last a very long time in that form.

You forgot two steps: Step 5: Download and burn Golden Earing's, "radar love" onto CD, place in CD player and put on repeat Step 6: Grow Mullet

Wouldn't you want to buy a car from someone who can communicate with you clearly -- in both body and vocal languages -- and may understand parts of your culture whether be it business or personal? If I end up over seas and want to buy something somewhat of importance, I would go to what would be considered a, "minority" car dealer. (I can't speak Arabic very well)

Wow. Does anyone actually sit down and do the math when designing these things?

(insert the, "your mayor!!! :cool:" quote here)

<3 Doug.

May not be a bad idea to get some books on engines,superchargers,turbos,etc... They can help clarify expectations

+1, put it into something that won't depreciate. Cheapest, semi-hassle free way to go fast - Bolts ons (intake, exhaust, headers, etc) + Nitrous. Done correctly the power output per dollar can't be matched (it would take 85 10lb bottle fills to break even with a turbo/sc kit)

Without recalibrating the PCM, yes. The other option would be to fool the IAT sensor, which only would give about 3° of timing retard. Jeff will need to further clarify. Telling lies to your engine management is never a good thing, it only leads to more lies. Not to mention, crank sensor input (RPM) is used in about 99% of the control loops....

+1, We're somewhat of a large, unformal, opinionated, disfunctional family... Feel free to hit me up...

Messing with timing via crank position sensor = not a good idea. Get an EFI Live COS.

Miller-san, Maybe he is Asian? (bow)

Welcome, FCs look good in red.

Those boys are moving.

I wouldn't call the generation III coils, "junk" - hell MightyMouse is pushing 1000whp+ on them.... They just are weaker in comparison. Cliffs: Don't buy into MSD's snake oil bullshit, what came on your LSx will suffice for most projects.