craig71188

If I could find one "in stock" I would give that dealer first crack at doing just this. If not, I will likely check around locally with what I want and see who will deal.

It's an optioned up Std cab, long bed work truck in 2WD. Unfortunately, the only way to get the long bed now is in the WT. I have run through the Chevy and GMC site with a 2000 mile search and haven't found a combination close enough for me to live with if I'm going to pay to go new.

I had not. Sent them an email asking about how to send the the specs on what I want. Not finding any in stock already built to a close enough to what I want. Will see what what they say.

So my trusty Silverado is gone, tired of looking at used stuff (to many idiots, too many stories) so I am considering buying new. I have a "GM Supplier" discount, but I have heard many dealers will do better. Spec'd out what I want, just looking to check with someone in the business to see what programs might be coming up / what kind of price I can expect (will likely be a special order, can't find any that match my preferred spec).. LMK

SOLD! Lock it up

Photos can be seen/downloaded here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8yrgbi18qlt286f/AAAgYfVRdXEu4Nzvy1kxtMtaa?dl=0 Revised mileage: 113,369 Also needs a front Air Bag Sensor, replaced one a few years ago, now it looks like the second one has failed (need to confirm w/scan tool) Original Post updated.

PM responded 2WD w/LSD

Posting this here for a quick sale if anyone is interested before I decide to have it towed/fixed. Great truck, my daily for 6-7 years. Standard cab, long bed, Charcoal grey, 113,369 miles (won't be going up now!). 2WD, 5.3 / Auto, LS trim so carpet/cloth seats, air/tilt/cruise/power windows/locks. Lockable hard tonneau cover. HD towing package, 6400lb rating including 3.23 LSD. Today is succumbed to the early-mid 2000 brake line rust out. Also found the bleeders have rusted off the calipers. Remarkably, the rest of the truck is decent, just starting to bubble/flake some around the rear wheel wells. New battery & windshield (multiple stone chips & finally a crack) this Spring, but due for tires all around before winter. Full steel brake line kit is <$75, just more time and energy than I care to put into this right now. I had been shopping for replacement, just put it off due to a new garage build. KBB "fair condition" private sale value is $4500 - if you want it "as is" $3000 or I will get new lines/calipers/tires and ask $5000 when it's "done". Pics can be seen / downloaded here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8yrgbi18qlt286f/AAAgYfVRdXEu4Nzvy1kxtMtaa?dl=0

Derailleur adjustment, not as likely. Dirty and sticking derailleur/stuck chain link - possibly. Wear is rarely an issue on bike sprockets - they (typically) just don't get enough use. Bent sprocket, maybe, but tends to be more consistent in dropping chains. Chains with a stuck link - common, but tens to also click/clunk as they go through the derailleur too.

Clean and lube the pivots/springs that holds tension on the chain. Also, clean/lube the chain and check for any stiff/stuck links. Clean/degrease (Brake clean/carb cleaner) apply WD40/Blaster, work through full range of motion, lube with 3 in 1 oil, gun lube - just a light oil of some type. Be sure to visually inspect/feel for any looseness in the crank bearings and or bent sprocket or teeth. As far as adjustment, there are two travel limit screws, shift into the lowest gear, be sure derailleur is aligned with the gear (look closely and you will see one of the screws against a "stop" - adjust it - if needed). Repeat with other screw on top gear. Check to be sure bike will still shift into highest and lowest gear - if adjusted too tight, the chain will balk/delay moving into the top/bottom gears. If so, looses adjusting screw for that gear slightly so it shifts smoothly.

PM me with some specifics. I still have some of my (now very) old tools from my bike shop days. Lack of time is the biggest hurdle, but may be able to help you out.

To be honest, I downloaded them several years ago and haven't really "shopped" for updated/better options. RV Parky is definitely the weaker of the two I mentioned. Thanks for the reminder - I will take a look at updating!!!

A couple of handy apps - "RV Parky"-lists free places to park/stay (Walmart / Cracker Barrel) along with RV parks/reviews, "ParkAdvisor" - RV parks with reviews. Both can be spotty with their reviews, but have found some neat state parks close to our route that have been worth staying at vs. some of the commercial parks. Both are also good for finding services (dump stations) for when "The shitters full Clark!"

Pre -1991-1992 RV's are so cool, but are a pain because driving them much over 55 just destroys most of the old big blocks. Small Block 360 AND a Gear Vendors Overdrive - should be a good cruising combination! Love our 27' Holiday Rambler Vacationer just because it's new enough to have F.I. and an overdrive transmission.

I still have my vacuum pump and gauges if you need a loaner tool program... Sean has my old leak detector.

Replacing all the o-rings has been found to be unnecessary. The old mineral oil typically coats them and they are not an issue. It's not a bad idea, but if not leaking and left undisturbed, they should be OK. New 134a service valves are required. New dryer should be installed as the desiccant bag in the old one is likely saturated. Flush the system. Evacuate to AT LEAST 29" of vacuum for 45 minutes. Charge with 134a (and correct weight PAG oil) to 90% of stated charge and temperature test (not duct temp - specific test procedure depending on Orifice tube or Expansion block system) to get to final charge. As to a "kit" you can purchase the dryer and fittings as individual parts. There are som O-Ring service kits on the market, but likely unnecessary if you aren't opening all the fittings.

Since I am tired of the FB MP cornbread hell postings by folks who can't respond, answer a question or put together an intelligible sentence, I will ask here. Looking for a donor car (or even a good core - broken timing chain) LE5 series Ecotec engine for my project Fiero's. Something wrecked is perfect. Motors came in the following: '06-'07 Cobalt SS '08 Cobalt Sport '06-'08 HHR '06-'08 G5 '06-'09 G6 '06-'09 Sky / Solstice '06-'07 Ion '08-'09 Aura & Vue '08-12 Malibu The HHR and Malibu seem to be the most common (cheap) but many HHR's were the 2.2L and many Malibu's were the V6. Prefered motor is from a 6/07 or later vehicle. I would like one complete car as a donor, but also want a couple of additional motors for spares to build. If you've got any "junk" laying about...

Yea, yea, yea... The 3.4 is the "easy button" if I wanted to go the V6 route. The plan is to go the "lightweight" route for Champcar to the V6 was a temporary fix until we got the Ecotec built in the other chassis. In digging through the spares, there are multiple chips from Sinister Performance including the one in the car - marked with the P.O. name and "1.1" - so not just an off the shelf Hypertech anyway.

Yea, heads are the same and you need the Fiero intake because the 3.4 intakes are reversed and interfere with the distributor on the earlier motors. Trying either go with what I've got or liquidate and just move on to the "end goal". I've got some nice 2.8 bits, nice header set up, several custom chips and so on.

The '88 Fiero ITA car is in the process of being converted to Champcar. Original plan was to rebuild the 2.8L V6 in the complete car so we could get some track time in while building the second chassis with an Ecotec 4. Last weekend I got the ventilated motor out of the car and this weekend started to tear down one of the "spare" motors that supposedly had a blown head gasket - well it only had an intake leak (good) but #6 rod bearing (at least) is long gone. I have another short block in storage to go check and a stock low mile engine in another '88 Fiero Formula that is really too nice to part out. In the original plan, the thought was to throw the "good heads" from the motor in the car onto the "good spare" block and just run it. As this doesn't appear to be workable now, I have a decision to make - do a full rebuild on one of the existing motors, or press ahead with the Ecotec in this chassis. I have an '07 Cobalt 2.2L 5 spd donor, but was rethinking that, I might just want to go ahead with a later 2.4L. My questions are as follows: 1) Does anyone have any 2.8 performance bits lying around they want to part with? Would be looking for a mild cam and some oversize pistons. 2) Does anyone want a LARGE stock of 2.8L stuff? (cheap!) 3) Does anyone have a stash of Ecotec stuff they want to get rid of? Headed over to check out the last short block that is in storage and then will have to make a decision....

Then there's GEM: https://gem.polaris.com/en-us/ Way to pricey new (I didn't realize Polaris owned them now). A few older ones around $3K on Marketplace. But some of the earlry ones (2000 ish) may pop up cheaper. A dealer in Grandview used to use our dock to get them off the truck when they ordered them in when I worked a Elgee Electric circa '99-'00.

Had to go look, but yes, I still have an old manual crimping tool. PM sent.

I will put in my $ .02 for KYB. We have used these on everything from street to race applications. We would run these on a 240Z for a 24 hr race, take them off and then used them on a street car afterwards (put new on the race car "just to be safe"). One year I had Monroe offer us a set of there (then) new "race shocks" - after the 24 hr race they held no gas pressure and were just tossed. Bilsteins are great, but if you want to save a little coin, KYB is a good choice.

Glad to help. Fun project that did turn out rather well.

To go shoot at least once a month. Got a membership at LEPD Range's "Black Friday" sale - Level II membership and get a free or discounted gun from their list. Picked up a free Ruger MKIII and now need to go and keep practicing. May look into a league if work travel settles down enough...