craig71188

Hook up a scan tool and be sure the compressor is commanded "on". Many newer cars have to "see" multiple criteria to allow the compressor to run. For instance: DIAGNOSTIC AIDS A/C compressor clutch will not engage under the following conditions: The A/C high side line pressure is over 2957 kPa (429 psi) . The A/C low side line pressure is under 151 kPa (22 psi) . Throttle angle is at 100 percent . Engine speed is more than 5500 RPM . Engine coolant temperature (ECT) is more than 121°C (250°F) . Ambient air temperature is less than 5°C (40°F) . Just because you know these conditions don't exist doesn't mean the PCM isn't "seeing" them. For instance, a bad coolant temp switch that is registering too high can cause the compressor to not engage (and the gauge can still read normal). Yes, a bad high/Low pressure switch can also be the cause, but a quick look with the right tool can save a lot of hassle.

I have what looks to be a pair of headlight surrounds (square stacked headlights) and a pair of wing/vent windows/hinges/posts for a C10 / C20 / Suburban / GMC whatevers that I got in a lot of parts. No use for them - come and get them before they go to the trash. PM for pics, not worth it to screw with hosting them.

Star Trac Natural Runner Elliptical. Heavy duty, smooth machine, BUT...it has a bad circuit board (no longer available). Nice machine to use, but no "programs" or "tracking". Fix the electronics if you know how, or just use it as is. If no takes it goes to the scrappers a week from Monday (6/17). Threw it up on FB marketplace for the heck of it and to post pics here: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2107531892709158/

Depending on what you are hunting, I am now using "Row52.com" to set up alerts for specific cars. Not perfect, but it caters towards the self service yards, often has a pic and VIN of the vehicle and gives you a good chance of getting to it before everyone else.

Got what I needed, lock it up! Thanks.

Can't seem to find this anywhere online so... Looking at transporting a couple of project cars. I have O/A length/width & wheelbase. I am looking for a dimension for the front and rear overhangs. Center line of rear axle to rear face of back bumper Center line of front hub to the tip of the nose Would like to have both GT and base model measurements. I would also be curious to see multiple years (or at least '84-'86 vs. '87-'88). I would think they are all pretty close, but you know what "assuming" gets you. Thanks in advance!

Interesting but.... $120K buys an empty box. To build some of the garages they show, double that +++ After the buy in, $100+ per month "condo fees" plus property taxes. Still is interesting due to zoning and the fact you can't build something that size, that close in most areas. Long term value - could go up - could go down. Depending on use (if just storage, what's the cost for similar enclosed storage to rent)? Given the current cost of commercial property anywhere outside "the hood" it could still be attractive. Still looking and thinking......

134a retrofit on R12 is (relatively) easy. Flush the system, add the correct oil for 134a. Depending on if orifice tube or expansion valve - replace orifice tube and dryer (if expansion valve, be sure it's clean and leave it alone - install new dryer regardless) and then charge to 80% of original spec and temp test system for correct balance/charge and adjust as needed to get system in balance. Although R134a uses different o-rings, if the system is undisturbed, they seem to work just fine, any seepage of the old mineral oil seems to coat them and they seal well - Mineral oil is not solvent in 134a so is doesn't really "move" in the system.

I do not - but 1 gallon milk jugs partially filled w/sand and PVC pipe make good cheap alternatives. Pro tip - set up the "course" about a foot (or a bit more) narrower & shorter than required. When they get to the "real test" it will seem easy....

A bad MAF is a possibility - need a scan tool to look at fuel trim, unplug MAF and see if it changes I understand there is also a "muffler" on the air snorkel (intake piping AFTER the MAF), these can come loose/crack and allow unmetered air in (vacuum leak)

Chicago Pneumatic S38440 Benchtop media blast cabinet. New in box, only opened for photos. I acquired this in a tool lot and already have a floor cabinet so I am selling this "spare". Older version of what Harbor Freight offers at $119 now. Asking $80 Pics here: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/316763399196606/

SOLD - lock it up

Car is sold pending pickup today - If not Anthony is net on the list...

Yep, I thought about keeping it to run to the airport instead of the truck, then I got put back on my employers company car plan....to many vehicles sitting around once it shows up. I will just play with the race car(s) instead

Picked this up from an estate, 140K miles, VERY clean car. Does still need some attention: Right side sun visor (might be a spare in the extra parts) Factory Radio cuts in and out Tilt Steering column has some play (common issue, no time to open it up and tighten the hardware) Car is nice cosmetically and has some extra parts (console, center caps, more as I find it) Advertised here on FB Marketplace at $3500: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2289110851374886/ CR (less hassle) price $2800

PM'd on Tru Glow.

Good idea to go try them on. Jegs had G-Force and Racequip starting at $180+/- for open face and $200-$200 for closed face. After trying both on, and leaving them on for several minutes, I found the Racequip much more comfortable for the shape of my head. Not as important for autox / drag / track day where the longest you will likely have it on is 20-30 min, but for a 2 hour endurance stint, it makes a HUGE difference. Also, be sure if fits a "little" snug (kind of tight on your cheeks), they do break in just a little bit and you do not want it to slide around on your head.

Oven Cleaner is your friend! Have used this to soak/flush hard carbon and "gunk" off/out of parts. Wear gloves/goggles - it burns if you're not careful

Slap in a cage and LeMons prep accomplished!

This! 20+ years ago I believe the number quoted was 35% of a new vehicle cost was for Union pension/benefits. Now the UAW wants to stop GM from closing facilities? I'm sorry, we are bankrupting you, but you must continue to lose money as long as we're getting it???

At least as far as Champ (Chump) is concerned, carbon fiber is not permitted. Plywood, aluminum are charged by the square foot, but F aero (spoiler/splitter) and rear aero (wing) are a flat point value (10? or 15? points ea.)

If possible, find someone who has "been there, done that" to look over your build/progress and/or go along to your first few races and "consult" as a crew chief or to just hang out and advise. Sometimes a simple suggestion / observation can save you a lot of regret. BTW, I'm more of a Champcar guy, but am willing to share some of my experience of knocking around endurance racing (OMG - now almost 40 yrs)

This. Also, build your spares as assemblies that match what's on the car. If you damage a strut, it's usually faster to have a full strut assembly ready to go back on with the correct spring/rate (if not a fully assembled "corner" - strut/control arm/caliper/rotor, etc). Spare motor is the same thought - but be sure sensors/fittings/etc are the same as the primary motor. Just stripping a second car of its stock parts is good, but if you've modded the originals, you may be stuck after hauling the spares along - or forced into a compromise situation.

I do (what seems to me like) a lot of metal work - and my bench grinder has been packed away for years. It's an old Craftsman, 8", two speed, somewhere 1/2-1 hp.. That being said, today I use: 1) Old Delta 14" metal cutting band saw 2) Ryobi Metal cutting chop saw 3) 4" and 10" handheld grinders 4) Tabletop Belt/disc sander combo (just got this recently, not sure how I got along without it all these years) 5) Drill press - again, the biggest old Craftsman "Pro Series" 6) I do have a small metal lathe (10x30)?, but depending on what you will be working on and space, a Mill/Drill combo might work and negate the need for a drill press 7) Mig and Gas welders 8) Bead blast cabinet 9) Compressor 10) 36" Sheet metal brake Here again, this is decades of accumulation - and metal work covers a broad spectrum. Sheet metal? Steel tubing? Aluminum bits for bushings/etc? Depending on what you will do (the most of), The above list can be cut down adjusted to fit where you will be spending most of your time.

Thanks, but if that's all I can get for it, it can live in the safe.