Draco-REX

Legacy (DD): Synth or Synth-blend, whichever deal I can get the filter I want with. The filter is a Purolator PureONE PL14610. Larger filter surface area lowers the bypass pressure requirement. This car had a hard life before I got it, so I'm keeping it in good oil, but I'm running the changes out to 4500. WRX: High mileage 5W-30 in the winter when I'm not racing. Conventional or High Mileage 10W-40 in the summer when I'm racing. I don't care about the expensive stuff because I change the oil after every other race. Filter is also a PL14610. STI: This one gets babied. Castrol Edge 5W-30 and a PL14610. Though I'm considering switching to Canton cartridge filters because they don't have a bypass valve.

I'm pretty sure my Thunderbolt is dropping text messages. I'm not sure if it's not sending, or not receiving. But I've sent 10 since getting it and have had only one reply. This is not good.

I feel the exact opposite. 1 and 2 were boring, but the Evo was new so they were feeling out the design. 3-6 were cool looking with the 6.5 being the best. 7-9 were the worst looking of the bunch, IMO. The greenhouse was way too tall for the beltline and made it look more like it's econobox roots. I can't help but see a little bit of VW beetle in the proportions. But the 10 is the best looking by far in my opinion. It just looks mean. I was seriously considering one when the 08 STIs came out. But I found a perfect new 07 STI and picked that up instead.

Well, just picked up a Thunderbolt. This is my first smartphone, so I don't have anything to compare it to. But it was time to upgrade and I figured if I was going to finally get one, I might as well buy ahead of the curve so it'll last. I haven't played with it much yet, so I can't do a full review. But there's already one annoyance. They put the power port in the worst possible place. It's in the way if you're right handed and want to leave it plugged in while you use it. It's also on the wrong side to use the kickstand. So you can't watch movies on the kickstand and have it plugged in at the same time. They should have put it on the bottom like most other phones. I got mine at Best Buy and they also have a hard case with holster for it. The best part is this holster holds the phone face-in to protect it. I've always thought all of those holsters that hold the phone face-out were a bad design. So, anyone have a quick list of must-have apps for this thing? I'm told I should have a task killer of some sort, and an anti-virus and both can be found free. Which ones should I get, and what else?

Needs more Evo.

If I wanted a C6 and had the money, THAT is exactly how I want it to look. Don't care what anyone else says, that is a perfect vette in my opinion. EDIT: Ok, forget the interior. Stock interior is fine.

ALL VOLVOS ARE CRAP!

As above, welcome to CR. We speak our minds. It's up to you, however, to decide how much what we say matters to you. If these are light duty brakes and you got them because you thought they *looked* good and didn't get them for performance, then what does it matter? I must be getting old, because I actually appreciate the fact that everyone will be honest. I like to know that when I post something I'm not going to get a bunch of empty pats on the back.

Precisely, you don't want holes punched through a cast medium if you can help it. Differences in the medium's density mean imperfections in the casting (i.e. drilled holes) can cause cracking. Granted, today's manufacturing processes are improved. But if you don't think there are density differences within a casting, pick up a new rotor and check the outer edge. You'll find a spot where material wad milled away to balance the rotor. They didn't do it because it was egg-shaped. And for good braking performance, you want as much heat capacity as possible. Rotors are essentially heat capacitors. They charge up on the entry to a turn, but they don't dump that heat until the following straight. So you need to be able to hold a lot of heat. For a simple casting, that means as much material as possible. Removing material doesn't help. You're right, NASCAR and F1 have rotors made of cash. But that only reinforces the point that holes are not necessary these days. We have to deal with chunks of cast iron so we have to take the imperfections of that material into account. And compromising it's structure is not the way to improve it.

If you can get it there, bring it. I'll be there. Bringing the Leggy with the new wheels so I can roll the fenders after. The STI will have to wait for the next C&C. No, not this C&C: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xl_F74xBvkk

Holes = bling bling Slots are only useful for clearing water.

Back in '08 when the STI was getting repaired at Achbach after an incident with a snow covered curb, there was a Holden conversion there. The guy had done it perfectly, importing all the parts necessary to do it right (but it was still LHD). It was really nicely done.

I don't think the second one would look good on a white car unless you have other gold accents. Are those prices per wheel or for a set of 4? Because a set of lightweight rims for $550 is a steal.

I didn't see the other one, I'll have to check it out later. When I started watching this one, I was thinking "Yeah, I could do that back when I was riding. That looks like fun." Then he got to the multiple sets of stairs... Those guys have balls. I never trusted stairs.

The Mountain bike equivalent of a WRC Special Stage. http://www.wimp.com/urbanchile/

I'm not saying it's smaller than spec. I'm just saying that it looks small.

You shouldn't need to use soap and water. Use compressed air to get the dust off them and out of the slots. Then use a rubber eraser to clean the contacts. Re-seat and try to boot again.

I'll try to make it and have some fun. Not sure which car I'll bring... By that time the WRX should be about the same as the STI or quicker if I hit my target weight. But we haven't set our RallyX dates yet due to some issues. So I won't know until they're set if I can make it.

That tubing looks so small.

Dude...

Clear your Sent Items folder as well.

Straight-line, my cars aren't anything special. The STI is my best bet right now, but it's still just a mid 13 second car. The power is pretty much stock however. I do think it's about time to go Stage 2+ this year. I'd like it to be a mid 12 second car. I know that's slow by the standards of most of this board, but it's where the car will likely end up with my planned mods. So a downpipe and a tune at a minimum. But I'm also thinking of headers and an up-pipe. That should get me north of 300awhp. I may do a pump and reworked injectors for some extra oomph, but that's up in the air at the moment. The WRX is getting "more lightness" this year. At this point it might actually hang with the STI in a straight line. When (not if) the engine goes, I plan to bump it to 2.5L and give the heads a massage. The turbo will likely get an upgrade to something smallish and ball-bearing'd, along with a switch to an external wastegate and wider exhaust piping. At that point it'd definitely get the pump and injector treatment and Ethanol is a serious consideration. Once that's all done it'll probably be a low 12 to high 11 sec car in the 1/4. But that's way down the road. The spec.B is staying mostly stock. I bought it for comfort, not speed. So all it has to do is look good and ride well without boring me. It's likely going to stay a 14 sec car. I do need to get it tuned though. The stock tune is utter crap.

Yeah... I'm in love...

Seen three of those. The tough part is that you HAVE to have a hardtop to run one and those are nigh impossible to find. And their ground clearance leaves a lot to be desired.

Cool. I know how to tell from the VIN what engine it came with. Thanks for the warning. Another couple questions: Were the LSDs mechanical, or clutch-pack? If clutch-pack, are they cheap to rebuild? Or better to replace?