Draco-REX

Just ordered my HD Hero motorsports pack. Anyone looking to purchase one of these should go to GoPro.com and check out what comes in each of the kits. BestBuy only sells the Helmet kit which might not have all the mounting options you'll want. I'm thinking of putting one of the helmet mounts on my helmet, then a couple static ones around the WRX. The suction cup mount will be for oddball angles I want to get.

Amazing. The materials science and engineering in this is astounding. How about the block where the whole lower half is one giant main bearing cap? But when I see stuff like this, I have to wonder; is this the automotive equivalent to a body-builder? Yeah, it runs and makes power on the dyno, but with a curve like that, just how useable is it? Is it even feasible to take around a track? Hell, is it even worthwhile to drag race with such a small power band? I'm not trying to take anything away from the build itself. But it looks like it's only purpose is to be a dyno queen.

I see these all the time at RallyX events. If they won't come loose on one of our courses, they'll never come loose. I've been putting off getting one for a while for no good reason. I think I'm going to finally get one with my Xmas cash.

LOL! That was awesome.. Man, there's always some fun stuff going on at Team O'Neil.

Love this form of racing. I wish it was shown more on TV. These cars just pummel the track into submission. Rugby on wheels is a great description of this.

Thank you also. These boards are really great pieces of work. The workmanship and artistry is excellent. Looking at the Pats logos, your first instinct is that they are decals. They are that good. But what makes these boards exceptional is the attention to detail. From the logos to the fit and finish to something as small as bushed pivots in the legs, you see it throughout the boards. Attention to detail is a make-or-break thing for me, and these boards do not disappoint.

My cordless impact wrench will do over 300 lb-ft. I saw a gas-powered 1" drive impact that put out 1700 lb-ft.

Torque is your ET, Horsepower is your Trap.

Only if you build for torque on the upper end.. I once again point to the diesels.

I think he was expecting the attack to come from the lower foot, not the one on the cage. I was certainly thinking the attack would come from there, He'd just transferred his weight to the foot on the cage. Most kicks use the planted foot to assist the attacking foot. So he saw the planted foot on the cage and started to shift to a lower guard only to have the cage foot come off and ring his bell. At least that's what I think happened.. But then, who'd expect an attack like that?

The rock show is very different from their regular shows. It's pretty much entirely music. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgS-4stj8fQ 3 Blue Man 4 Drummers 3 Guitarists 1 Keyboardist 2 Vocalists 1 Guest Group Their music CD "The Complex" is really good. Apparently some of the songs had up to 15 percussion tracks.

Exactly which is why just comparing Torque doesn't work.

Horsepower is like Torque over Time... sorta. It gives a basic idea of where a car makes power. Otherwise, it would seem like the engine from a Semi would be the best drag engine you could drop into your car. Also, if we just look at Torque, a Forumla 1 engine would look like a slow piece of junk. Horsepower has value, but it's far from the whole story.

I own three Subarus; '07 STI, '03 WRX, '07 Legacy spec.B. I love them all. In stock trims the Imprezas are much nimbler cars due to their smaller size. But this Legacy is just a really comfortable ride. Heated seats, nice stereo, etc. I bought it to be my DD since the other two aren't suitable anymore for various reasons. And I'm really happy with the purchase, and I'm looking forward to my trip out to MA even more. So yeah, I'd do it all over again happily. A couple notes: If you're set on an Impreza and are thinking of a WRX, as above, avoid the '08s. They were kind of a "in-between" year and the offerings before and after were much better. The legacy will be a much more comfortable daily. 05+ GT is the Turbo model. I would recommend the 08-09 or the '11+ as the '10 was a first-year car. Subaru's Nav is a waste of $$. I hate to say it, but my little base-model Garmin GPS is a better unit. And the extra info displays are really pointless and are redundant with the instrument cluster. I wish I had the cubby hole in my Legacy where my Nav is, to be honest.

Made the Silverado look like a joke.

I really hope the seller didn't try to bump the price over that. That wing is only available on the STI. Thing is, some STI owners don't like the wing and prefer a wingless look, so they'll trade trunklids with people who want the wing.

Reindeer Ornament would like you to take a seat over there.....

Essentially Blue Man Group. Pick up Blue Man Group's "The Complex" Rock Tour DVD. It's really good. They have a three-man PVC instrument.

I just worked with what I had in my garage. That was the best race car I had laying around. The Corolla RC handled twice as good as the Murci. It only has about a third of the power of the big lambo. So If I actually did some engine and turbo work to it, I could easily see it beating it around the track.

The secondary benefit to sandbags is that if you do find yourself stuck, you can bust one open for some extra traction right in front of the drive wheels.

That was sweet. Some of those cars were pretty detailed.

Ok, I originally wanted to start a 'Ring board, but I know a lot of people don't like the ring because it's so long. So how about the Top Gear test track? Pretty much everyone here must know it by now. So here's the plan. There are four classes, each with certain limitations. All times will be done in Practice Mode, World Tracks, Top Gear Test Track (Sunny). General Rules: Best time must be a clean time. It should show up in the laptimes at the track's home screen. If you complete a lap and it comes up red on the right of your screen, it's a bad lap. The only Mod allowed in all classes is a brake bias controller because it cannot be removed. I have no idea why, but that's how GT5 is. Driving aids can only be used if the car originally came with them. Then they can be used or shut off. This includes ABS. (This means no driver aids in the 08+ F1 cars!) Reasonably Priced Car Class (RPCC): This is in the spirit of the Reasonably Priced Car segment on Top Gear. I chose the Cervo because there was no Liarna in the game. It's just over 14K Cr so as GT goes, it's reasonably priced too. It's also a Premium car, so anyone can buy it without having to wait for it to come around in the used car lot. Car: Suzuki Cervo SR '07 Rims/Tires: Stock Mods: None Production Street Class (PSC): This is a class for your lightly tuned street car. Think DD that you take to the track. So the cars must be conceivably street-legal. Car: Any car produced and sold to the general public for street use. No track-cars (i.e. Zonda-R), no race cars. Rims/Tires: No Racing Slicks Any rims Mods: Sports air filter Sports exhaust ECU tune Production Modified Class (PMC): This class is for production cars with no limit to modding except for race mod. This is for cars that started life on a showroom floor and are now trailered track-beasts. Car: Any car produced and sold to the general public for street use. No track-cars (i.e. Zonda-R), no race cars. Rims/Tires: Any Mods: No Race Mod Any other mod is allowed. Open Class (OC): The class where anything goes.... except for the Red Bull X1. This would become a one-make class otherwise. Cars: No Red Bull X1 (the final car from the Sebastian Vettel Challenge) Rims/Tires: Any Mods: Any So here are some quick times I laid down just to get started. I didn't put much time into them, I'm sure they'll be surpassed: RPCC: 1:45.402 PSC: Dodge Challenger SRT8 1:22.080 PMC: Lamborghini Murcielago LP 640-4 SuperVeloce 1:07.613 OC: Toyota Corolla Rally Car '98 1:13.962

I would disagree here. With a RWD car I can come up to a turn in the snow, blip the throttle to get the rears loose and maintain grip with the front. With a controlled slide (not a wild tail-out maneuver) I can follow a much tighter turn, say at an intersection, than a FWD would ever be able to without coming to a near stop. But again, PROPER tires are neccesary for this. Trying to maneuver a RWD in the snow on all-seasons is just asking for frustration and trouble.

AWD donuts > RWD Donuts

Regular people prefer FWD in the snow because the extra weight over the drive tires makes it easier to get moving and climb steeper inclines. However, having the front tires do all the work, plus having a large front bias in weight distribution means that the car will understeer given the slightest provocation. You can counteract this somewhat by using your e-brake. But there are two major issues with that. First, you lack fine control with the e-brake. FOr the most part, you either have grip with the rears or no grip at all. Secondly, not every car has a hand-control for the e-brake. It would be very difficult to use the e-brake in a car that uses a foot control. RWD is favored by some (myself included after 9 years of New England winters in RWD cars) over FWD in the snow because with some experience and a light touch on the gas pedal, you can have greater control over the car's yaw. With a front-engined, RWD car you get the weight distribution understeer but with the ability to finely control rear grip to counteract it. Like a drift car that is set, counter-intuitively, to understeer, this setup gives excellent directional control in the snow. Just don't forget the snow tires at ALL FOUR corners. Now, a mid or rear engined RWD car is different. In this case, while you may be able to get moving almost as easily as a FWD car, the extra weight in the back will give the car a tendency to oversteer naturally. I wouldn't want to play too much with this driveline layout. The difference between grip and oversteer will be so small that a MR or RR layout will likely bite you in the ass and make you kiss the aforementioned lightpole. But when's all said and done, AWD is just plain superior. Better hill-climb, better start off, and better yaw control than either FWD or RWD. But if an AWD car is not an option, I'll pick the RWD car every time. Especially in this area which is so flat compared to NE.