TURBOED

NB tophats sold. No one wants cheap Koni's?

Thanks. I tried to price it so I wouldn't have to haggle. I thought I would have this car for a long long time, and I've treated it as such. Someone come get it before I have to put the winter tires on!

To my knowledge, there were no options, just the choice between Sport and Tech. I should have noted above that this is the Sport. This has... -Hands Free Bluetooth and Bluetooth Audio -6 disc changer -In dash display that shows mpg, average speed, lots of other stuff. Also, has customizable "service" setting to warn you in a certain milage -Steering wheel controls for everything -Aux input -Other stuff I am forgetting I believe the tech package added HID's, Navi (which isn't any good), and Smart Entry/start.

2010 Mazdaspeed3 - 2nd owner, bought November 2011 with 20,000 miles. - 53,xxx miles now. I commute 70 miles per day, 100% highway. I have always had my miata as a second car to drive hard. This has been babied as a pure commuter car. - Completely stock, never modified Maintenance: - Oil changed every 4000-5000 miles with Penzoil Platinum 5W30 (have records) - Have records of literally every gas fill-up, tire rotation, alignment, etc - Air filter changed recently and all fluids checked. No outstanding maintenance items Body: - Not a ding, dent or scratch, except for a few small rock chips on the front bumper - Washed almost weekly, waxed at least twice per year. Just clay-barred, sealed and waxed 2 months ago. The paint is as smooth as new - Was in one minor accident - rear ended, with just hatch and bumper damage.^ Fixed by Autobody Specialists with all brand new Mazda parts.^ No fixed, remanufactured or knock off parts. Interior: - Nothing worth noting. 100% stock, 99% perfect.^ Will update with pics when I get a chance. Wheels/Tires: - Stock wheels have no imperfections. Removed every fall, washed inside and out, then waxed. - Stock wheels have Conti ExtremeContact DW summer tires with lots of tread - Included is a set of 16" steelies with winter tires Most dealer's are asking $18,000-$19000. I'm asking $17250 on Craigslist... CR price is $16,500, firm. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/20131103_153139.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/20131103_153154.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/20131103_153125.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/20131103_153205.jpg

Starting to clear out spare miata parts now that the car is gone. 1) Front Koni Sports. ~10,000 street miles and 5ish autocross seasons. They would seap a bit of fluid when adjusting, but did not leak during driving. I read that they'll be ok for a long time like this, but price reflects them not being perfect. I replaced them with Koni Race a few years ago, and they have been in storage since. Will come with Koni bump stops, homemade spacers to keep them from bottoming out, nuts, lock washers and koni spring perch. $366 new, $125 + shipping http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/20131101_195931.jpg 2) Custom made NB topmounts using Andrew Peppler's instructions. Some pictures from when I made them in this thread: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=313846 I think they cost ~$60 to make (fat cat charges $125 for the same thing). $40 + shipping http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/20131101_200442.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/20131101_200458.jpg 3) Racing Beat adjustable endlinks. 2 of the 4 ends are missing the metal sleeve that goes through the bushings. $67 new from RB... $20 + shipping http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/20131101_200655.jpg

Car is SOLD

Working on a deal that may leave me with all 4 corners of the suspension. Interested?

Bump... You won't find a better combination of cheap, fun, competitive and reliable. I hate to ruin such a great car, but if I still have it in ~1 month I'll start putting it back to stock for a spring sale :thumbdown

PM me your email address and I will send details...

Thanks for the comments everyone. It is certainly a fun car for the street and autox. It would take at least $7-8k to build it again. Someone jump on it!

For STS, the 1.6 cars are allowed to have the factory option viscous type LSD. 1.8 cars must be open diff (no torsion type allowed). Honestly, I can't express how fun and bulletproof this car has been for the past 7 years. I replaced the radiator when I first bought it. Other than that, it has been just oil changes, autocrosses and suspension tweaks.

I am thinking about a little shake-up to my automotive stable. First step would be selling the rainbow warrior. Regular stuff: - 176k miles. Just getting started for a miata. It dynoed 110.8hp last summer on the same day other similarly prepped low milage cars put down the same power. Moral? Engine is very healthy. - Exterior is not a show piece. Certainly not bad for almost 25 years old, but not perfect. The biggest issue is that the paint is flaking off the primer in a few places. This was a common issue for the early miatas. - NO RUST on the rear rocker panels like many miatas have. - Top was replaced ~5 years ago and seals well - I forget what package the car is, but it has open diff, no a/c, manual windows/locks, power steering - Just over 2000lbs Fun Stuff... Engine: - Racing Beat header - Custom cat-back - Magnaflow high flow cat - Unorthodox Racing underdrive pulley (uber rare for the 1.6L) - Racing Beat intake Suspension: - Koni Race F/Koni Sport R shocks - Koni threaded sleeves/adjustable perches - 6" 700lb F/7" 400lb R springs - NB tophats on front - Custom Harold Hammerly extended rear tophats with spherical bearings - Racing Beat hollow front sway bar - Custom spherical adjustable endlinks - Brand new alignment bolts Other: - Stock brake pads front/Hawk HPS rear - 14" Ultrashield Rally seat on Corbeau slider - 15x7.5 949 Racing 6UL wheels with fresh (3 events old) 205/50 BFG Rivals - Stock daisy wheels with all season tires I probably forgot some parts, but that is most of it. The car is a solid 90%+ of a nationally competitive build. It really only needs a tunable ECU (AEM F/IC6) and bushings everywhere... and of course a good driver and it could run with the upper level cars out there. As is, it is very regionally competitive. I won OVR (Ohio Valley region) STS in 2009, 2010, 2013. It's also just fine on the street. I drive it to work at least once a week (35 miles each way). It is pretty loud, but I have a supertrapp muffler that can be put on easily. Asking $4000 for everything, although I can sell in different configurations if you want to save money (example - I keep race shocks, install Koni Sport front shocks and 500/300 spring setup, buyer gets stock wheels only, I can keep the seat if the buyer doesn't fit in it, etc) What it looks like behind the wheel of this beast: Pics... http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/miata3.jpg http://www.ovr-scca.org/xgallery/photos/Autocross/2013/PE08%2007-20-2013%20Peter%20Bedrosian/20130720-ovr%20points%208-226.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/miata-2.jpg The Mazdaspeed3 is available for sale as well http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/miata2.jpg

I think starting Cueto is 100% the right choice. His arm is FRESH and it shows in his last two outings. He is one of the biggest "gamers" on the team, and I think desperately wants to avenge what happened in his last playoff start. Beyond that, the Pirates can hit fastballs and curveballs, but struggle mightily against a good changeup... and Johnny has one of the best in MLB. I do agree with the mild concern of his injuries... but it is a 1 and done, all hands on deck game. The Reds bullpen has proven all year that 7 scoreless innings are not out of reach if needed. I'm sure that is the whole reason Leake is on the wildcard game roster. With that said - if the Reds don't get a few runs in the first few innings, allowing Liriano to settle in... things won't end well for us Redlegs fans.

Two owner 1987 Wheel horse 312-A spent its entire 25 year life mowing the same 3/4 acre lot, and staying in the garage when not mowing. This is one of the nicest non-reconditioned Wheel Horse's I have seen. They don't make 'em like they used to. Angle iron frame and fabricated deck - no pressed sheet metal or plastic like most any lawn tractor made today.It pains me to sell, but I have become addicted to zero-turn. Specs: - 12 HP Kohler M12 Engine - Hydrostatic Transmission - 1037 hours - 42" 3 blade deck - Electric start The Good: - Body, paint, etc in excellent condition. - Frame, axles, etc in straight and perfect condition - Engine starts easily and runs well. Used to mow my own yard up until last week - One of the last years of the "well made" lawn tractors before Toro turned them into disposable lawnmowers - Parts, attachments, etc are still made and widely available The Bad: - Deck is bent at middle anti-scalp wheel (see picture). Result is that the cut is not very even. Some hard work could certainly coax it back into shape. - Engine uses some oil. I am told this generation Kohler engine was prone to a little oil use, and it should last a very long time. Does not smoke at all. - Seat is cracked at each side - Tires are very usable, but are starting to show some age - Belts are also starting to show some age, but again, are working fine Craigslist price = $500 CR price = $450 I think that's fair, compared to the condition of all other Wheel Horse tractors I have seen on CL for $300-$400. Think I'm crazy? Make me an offer. Must be picked up in Hilliard - I have no way of transporting. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/IMG_0148_2.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/IMG_0149_2.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/IMG_0151-1.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/IMG_0152-1.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/IMG_0153-1.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/IMG_0155.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/IMG_0156.jpg

Barcelona in German Village is really awesome.

I unfortunately lived the first 18 years of my life in Hamilton. Regarding a man looking like that and having sex with a raft, I can say with confidence... "Yeah, that sounds about right."

Bump... phone will be unlocked on Monday after I call AT&T. Wal Mart sells this phone for $300 new... buy mine for half the price and get $45/mo unlimited everything with Straight Talk Wireless, or any other no-contract service.

I bought this the day it came out in November 2011. Phone has been absolutely flawless for the 1.5 years I've had it. I just upgraded to the S4, so I don't need this anymore. Cosmetic Condition is probably an 8/10. I hate covers and never use them, but I treat my phones like the expensive pieces of electronics that they are. It has a few very small knicks in the chrome trim ring, and the rear cover is worn very slightly. Screen and cameras are perfect. Battery and Hardware are probably a 9.5/10. No problems to speak of. Battery still lasts probably 95% what it did on day 1. Phone is currently an AT&T phone, but I can factory unlock if needed since AT&T no longer sees it as "in contract." I just flashed everything back to unrooted and a completely stock ROM (JellyBean 4.1.2), so you have a pretty blank canvas to start from if you want to go that way. If you want to root but aren't into the tech of things, I can work with a buyer on rooting and installing the ROM you want. Everything on SWAPPA is around $200 (http://swappa.com/search?q=i777) I'm only asking $150. http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/87c43602-02ce-45e0-b3f1-0a6148510cf4.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/dfee1b62-fe98-4fd2-bee1-bd8cee920a90.jpg

Really? It's probably ~40lbs of aluminum... but I know nearly nothing about scrap yards. The hose reel... now that is not a bad idea at all.

Last year I ran over a large piece of metal on the highway in my speed3. It damaged both wheels and popped both tires. After insurance bought me new wheels, I wound up with the old ones because they just looked too nice to toss out. The wheels are in PERFECT shape, besides each having a small piece of damage in the outer bead. I guess I could sell them for scrap... and that might net $20 a wheel or so? It just seems like they look too nice to scrap... Would a refurb place buy them to fix and sell? Is it worth maybe putting in the marketplace for $25/wheel to see if someone wants them for some other reason? Any other ideas... or should I just stop caring so much and scrap? Here are some pics to show the damage. For size reference, they are 18x7.5: Wheel 1 took the brunt of the hit. You can see a small chunk taken out of the edge: http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/IMG_20130518_132418.jpg Wheel 2 has a much smaller amount of damage: http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/IMG_20130518_132428.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/IMG_20130518_132505.jpg

My advice is to run whatever you have. Get to know the sport and your car for a while. The best thing you can do is focus on your driving instead of thinking about what parts would help. Once you have some seat time and your tires are really holding you back (which will probably take many events), then start thinking about what parts are appropriate for whatever class you may want to be in. FYI - I'll be your friendly neighborhood Novice Coordinator for the event on the 23rd. Be sure to attend the novice walk :thumbup:

I have been contemplating getting into iRacing. I've had a G25 for a while and have played a decent amount of rFactor, and recently started playing Simraceway. It's a great way to keep the rust away during the off season... just not sure if it is worth $50/year. Simraceway is in Beta and is free right now.

Pics of tread? I believe these will work for wifey's civic.

x2, Thanks Brian! Was a fun day BSing and finding out who had the least weak engine. I'm already finding the cheapest/easiest tuning solution that keeps me class legal

As the title states... Tires were purchased in 2009. They started full tread, have 3 autocross seasons and probably 2000 miles or so. They were rotated many many times, so wear is very even. I can't find my machinists scale, so you'll have to judge the tread my President Lincoln's head... my guess would be around 4/32 left. They definitely don't have the ultimate grip they once did, but have lots of miles left in them. I'd like to get $50 just to cover what it cost to get them dismounted. These tires won two OVR STS class championships, and I'm not even raising the price for their racing pedigree http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/IMG_0902.jpg http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f122/jjschafe/IMG_0904.jpg