spankis

Not sure how i forgot monoprice. I hereby withdraw my ebay and replace it with them.

I would say microcenter if you need it quickly, but ebay honestly as far as cheap and long lengths. If you go the ebay route, get CAT-6 cable just because you can lol.

I just recently had one in my 265k mile Dakota. It was very odd, honestly. It did throw an o2 sensor code, but it just honestly felt like it was choking the truck to death. The exhaust quieted down noticeably, but gradually over time. It got to the point where it would be clearly laboring to maintain speeds going up slight grades on the freeway. First thing I noticed was quieted exhaust, and as a result it was replaced with a hissing/air escaping sound, because all the backpressure was forcing air out every gasket and flange ahead of the cat.... I understand it can burn up your pre-cat o2 sensor too in some cases, although mine seems to have survived the ordeal. If I recall the 2.5L contours have 4 of them.

First car was a 96 Ford Contour sport, 4 cyl, 5spd. I bought it for $2800 with 68k on it. I put wheels and a mild exhaust on it, and put a stereo in it. It had power locks, power sunroof, power mirrors, and ...... manual crank windows. WTF. Great first car though, had no issues with it. http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Contour.jpg 3 or 4 years later I bought my 93 Stealth, also with 68k on it, also for $2800. It was pretty damn ugly when I bought it: http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/DSC_0091.jpg It's substantially better now, many dollars and hours later: http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x33/spankis/Stealth%202009/DSC_0210PP.jpg

http://www.albertfamilytreefarm.com/ About 15-20 minutes south of Canal.

I used to use air mattresses, but I've moved on to what are called bedchairs or lounge-cots. They are very comfortable and easy to set up, nothing like cots you normally think about. I do a lot of camping/overnight fishing trips, and I got tired of inflating and de-flating an air mattress, and always blowing my lungs out or packing an air pump with me. If it's not urgent, I would suggest waiting on the cabelas model HERE, if its something you would consider. It's particularly sturdy and comes with it's own zip-up cover. Another advantage of these things is that you can tilt the back portion up from flat, so that it's like chair/lounger of sorts. Pretty neat things.

Man all these suggestions remind me of when I asked for troubleshooting help with my mom's suburban earlier this year. Thought it was a coil, then an injector, then plug wire....turned out to be lifter issue that had ruined the cam. What a cool deal that was.... Not at all suggesting that's the case here, I totally agree with coil.

I just got back from Lowe's. They opened at 5, and when I got there at 4:50 or so there were only probably 25 people waiting outside. I bought 5 of the 3 D-Cell L.E.D. MagLites they had for $15 each. They are usually $31, and JUST the retrofit L.E.D. bulb for a regular incandescent bulb MagLite is $18. Win in my book.

I've done it twice, and as such I haven't gone the past 3 years. After the first it's completely voluntary. Also, you're doing it wrong if you don't walk across it.

Man I haven't seen Rolla in forever. I may give him call and stop by if he's around.

I have a buddy with a pretty rough notchback he's trying to fix up and he needs fenders and a full set of headlights. I'm not a mustang guy, so I'm not sure what years would work, but I know the headlights and fenders would be for the later non-4-eye cars. Just stock parts is all he's looking for, but I'm sure about any tinted/not tinted/clear lense/etc. headlights would be fine too. Also, apparently he needs door handles for either/both sides, I would assume the outer, but I'll find out for sure. I figured there are enough mustang guys on here somebody might have some of this they're trying to get rid of. Thanks

Can you really get the ventilated seats in a goddamn tacoma? I THINK NOT.

Boutselis Auto Care 6050 East Livingston Avenue Columbus, OH (614) 863-6611 Open Weekdays 8am-5:30pm Very good, honest guys. I'm friends with the owners sons. My opinion aside, they have an A+ rating with the BBB.

Thanks guys, that all helps. It's an 07 so it still has warranty through 100k miles I guess, but has had the power steering recall done. I'll look over the suspension when I do its first oil change, as it definitely felt firm but not real harsh or noisy. I just figured I was feeling the firmer SS damping, and its NOTHING like how my damn car rides.

So my girlfriend just bought this car, it's an 07 Cobalt SS coupe, the non-supercharged or turbocharged 2.4L model, with the automatic. It has 55k on it, and new tires, front brakes, oil just changed by dealer, etc. I'll be doing the maintenance on it, and I'm just wondering if there is anything in particular I should look for or take care of that these cars are known for. It seems well taken care of aside from some curbed wheels. I read that the transmission should be flushed at 60k under "severe" duty, such as heavy stop and go or frequent temps over 90 degrees. Any GM techs or cobalt owners have any input? Thanks

I thought it released on tuesday? Or maybe that's when you're referring to.

I was the guy bitching about the $10/month required data plan on my "media" phone. I was bitching because I don't use it, and am still required to pay for it. This isn't something I'm locked into? You're saying policy has changed?

I was at Bobby Layman on W. Broad today looking at cars with the gf, they had a super clean looking 08 I think silver Ford 250 or 350 that they just got in. Can't recall if it was a 1 ton for sure, but it was a Powerstroke single wheel truck. It had the giant black plastic grill and a headache rack on it already.

I'd probably be in for another.

http://assets.nydailynews.com/img/2008/08/08/amd_favre-jersey.jpg

No issues with speedway here, and it's almost all I use as it's along my route from home.

In my (limited) experience with my own cars, hid failures seem to be more commonly a ballast failure than a bulb failure. I also know they can be very sensitive to a weak or "dirty" power source. I would advise you run them directly off the battery, with a relay from whatever switch you're using before you go any further. I also know that hid igniters, within the ballast, draw a ton of power at the initial fire then level off to a more reasonable load, so make sure you've got plenty of power. That means use heavy enough wire, a stout enough switch, and do your testing with the car running, rather than running off pure battery power.

There seem to be some knowledgeable people in here, so maybe answer me this. I have coilovers on my car, and to bring the rear into alignment, I use a set of adjustable camber and toe arms. These right here: http://www.3sx.com/store/catalog/control-arms-na-2-500.jpg I have developed some bad squeaks in the rear, with less than 5k on the control arms. It seems to be coming from the inner links of the arms, which are the non-greasable endlinks seen in the pic. Is there a more durable type of link I could replace these with? I don't quite daily drive the car, but I do drive it a few days a week at least, and I'd prefer not to be replacing these once a year....

Rushman Automotive rebuilt the transmission in my Dakota this past spring. All they do are transmissions and possibly rearends. I can honestly say it shifts better than it ever has since I've owned it, and my dad drove it and said it shifts better than when he first bought it ( it's his old truck ). They were surprisingly affordable too. http://www.rushmanautomotive.com/

I should be there. I went to the very first one last year, and the following day my bearing issues arose.... 1.5 engine rebuilds later, I can finally come back .