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RyM3rC

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Posts posted by RyM3rC

  1. That was almost enough to keep me from opening the thread :lol:

    Nice colection ,,,, but i dont think I would advertise that I own many guns. ;)

     

    +1

     

    Also let the record show that I do not own any firearms. In fact, I own nothing of value whatsoever:ninja:

  2. Not much to cover that hasn't already been said. I don't know what Crossle is talking about push-rod tubes, it's an OHC motor ;) Are you thinking of a beetle?

     

    The 3.2 is a good engine. The last year is the best to get as the g50 is a much better trans than the 915 I think most of the 3.2s got. Fairly trouble free, much more reliable than a 964, but not quite as simple as an earlier 911 SC. They leak oil which is fairly common and some of them will have snapped head studs. You can do about anything with a 911 because the engine bay is about the same size through most of the model lineup. It's not overly difficult to swap in a later 3.6 or any number of other popular engines.

     

    Watch out for rust around the windshield, make sure it hasn't had any monkey-mechanics going on and that sort of thing. The earlier 911s had rust issues around the torsion bar tubes as well, so check the floorpan pretty well. EPR does good work- Ed is always friendly and does all kinds of nice custom work. Last time I was there he had an older 2.7 (?) that had a 993 body kit on it and he was painting another 911 in Audi pearl. Good work and not sheisty like Auto Assets can be sometimes.

     

    Forgot to add... The motors will go 180k miles just fine, but most get rebuilt before then. If it smokes, the valve guides probably need attention as that is fairly common. If youlook at a targa, see if the seals have been replaced because most of the originals will be leaky by now.

  3. I would most definitely not buy that just because its a convertible, or any car for that matter, unless its a open wheel race car, like an F1.

     

    Porsche engines aren't the best sounding things in the world...

     

    Yes they are. Okay, maybe not but they sound good enough to enjoy with the top down and I'd rather drive a 911 convertible than the car I have now. Come on Chris, you'd drive an r8 convertible if I let you borrow it, and you'd love it. Plus, bikes don't have roofs and they're fine.

  4. Psh, I'll blast him with my 1887s while flying through the air Chuck-Norris style!

     

    I'd rocka 5-7, but not for self defense. Plus, ammo is kinda expensive and I heard the trigger pull is terrible. Is that true?

  5. Sure most of us car guys would RATHER have a hardtop, but are you saying that you would NOT drive a nice car just because it isn't a hardtop? How about a Ferrari 430? Jaguar XKE? Formula 1 car? Sure, convertibles are a little girlier than hardtops, but you can hear the sexy Porsche engine a whole lot better!
  6. Yeah, but the stock engagement teeth isnt exactly designed for high RPM shifts. Grind em till you find em.

     

    neither are the stock valvetrain or clutch. If 1950s transmissions could handle 7000+ rpm, I'm sure we can get you a nice "modern" synchromesh tranny that will handle your piddly-ass 500 lb-ft and 10k rpm;)

  7. you would have to go with a ford mod motor or other OHC engine. there is no way your gonna be able to spin a pushrod engine at those RPMs reliably. NASCAR engines get rebuilt after every race for a reason. either way though, you'll definitely see an increased wear rate on all of the engines bearings.

     

    And how many of them blow up each race? Could your car's engine spin 8000rpm for 500 miles? Would you consider your engine reliable?

     

    also, you'll have to go with a dogring transmission. modern synchro transmissions can't withstand the combination of RPM and torque of a large capacity V8 spinning that fast(hence why you don't hear about large capacity 10,000RPM V8 engines in road racing).

     

    WTF are you talking about? How much torque do you think a Nascar motor makes at 9000rpm compared to 5000rpm? A "modern" synchromesh transmission can handle 10,000 rpm just fine. Ugh!

  8. Hate to break it to you, but since that's not a military caliber, and it isn't very popular, there isn't really any "bulk cheap ammo" for it. You can look at Wal-Mart, Sportsmans guide, and the other usual suspects I suppose but it isn't going to be "cheap."

     

    Best you could do is reload. The straight wall cases will last a long time, and you can play with loadings a bit. Even AIM shows about $15/50 rounds, which is pretty close to .40 S&W and .45 ACP nowadays.

  9. Um, I'm pretty sure that China was invaded and occupied by Japan in WW2 Unless there's a giant conspiracy, in which case it must be the US .govt's fault (as everything "is"). We helped China before we even entered the war, and then pwned the hell out of Japan. You're welcome.

     

    Then the ungrateful turds turned communist, and backed our enemies in Korea and Vietnam. Thanks a bunch guys.:bangbang:

  10. I have been known to have some back-road-fun in it. Hence the mudflaps [the paint sucks though and is still all chipped up...] and I have 4 rally-lights on a custom made bar that I run during the winter/when I feel like it. I want to try rally-x this summer.

     

    ~Matt

     

    Very well. +rep for not being a poser then. Welcome.

  11. Hammer down on a 1911 + dropping a 1911 can actually activate the firing pin and cause the weapon to fire.

     

    That's why there is the half-cock hammer position. Many guns have this (including my usp45) which lets the hammer sit just off the firing pin assy so that "dropping" it on the hammer can not allow a chambered round to fire.

     

    You'd be crazy to NOT carry a SA pistol cocked. Seriously people. If I can I carry cocked with safety on (as should you), on my other da/sa carry weapons it's hammer down.

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