gbracing81

I vote no wonder he lives with his mother.

Anyone have a good recommendation for a basic... Let me repeat basic t56 rebuild. Or does anyone on here know how to do one and want a side job.

 

I had my T56 rebulit by Brown transmission in Newark. At the time they were they only shop that would work on T56's . I've heard though that Hardshift in Johnstown has done some for people. Theres also Scotts Transmissions on Broad St in Pataskala and Quality transmission on 37 in Baltimore. I beleive they all do T-56's.

You missed the "basic" part. I was trying to keep this under 1k$ bucks. Why would I spent $3500 on a dd trans ?

 

I guess you missed the part where I asked about for my own car. Besides, any information is helpful. What you chose to do with it is up to you.

He can send it to Tick and have a basic overhall for about $1k last time I checked.

 

What al do they consider "basic" just bearings and tabs? Does that include forks at all? I have my original T56 and it has a broken fork. I guess what I'm asking for my own car is should I have the original built up or buy a Hurst? The Hurst is rated to 700 ft lbs and cost around $3500.

How about a T56 from Jegs? Would it be better to have yours rebuilt or to buy one from there. I don't know how much Tick, RPM or Quick Shift wants to overhaul one but it looks like you can get a set up from Jegs for around $3500. Would a fully built stocker be stronger/better/cost effective over a new Hurst or TKO?

Although if you want a big mama model, go with the Twin Turbo 3500. Two thousand watt of sheer electric power.

 

 

Thats badass!!! It even comes with a built in cold air system.

1 PSI Super Charger System

 

http://www.bodykits.com/productImages_thumbBIG/9a4368b5_2539.jpeg

 

17 of these and I will be cooler than Dan.

Keep saving money get through school and purchase a c7z?

 

I like the sound of this.

Thats why i want one for my car.

 

Go out to meat, ricer kid asks what i have in it, i say "just a stock LT1...." lol.

 

Go out to meet and watch brother inlaw bring side of beef. lol

 

I love meating new people, they never see it coming.

Thanksgiving day I ran to Meijers and parked 11 spots from the next car. The lanes in front and behind me had cars that were atleast 10-15 spots closer to the store. When I came out there was a guy sitting in his car parked next to mine. I mouthed to him "All the empty fucking spots in this parking lot and you have to park next to mine!" He looked confused and then as I got closer he he drove away. Parking all the way at the the end of the lane doesn't get you away from ignorance.

He has said he does not want a Diesel, that basically excludes a "dually" from the conversation too.

 

Not true, you can get a dually with a 5.4 V8 and a 6.8 V10.

I've always liked the Ford crew cab dually's myself. I keep looking at trucks but can't seem to pull the trigger. I want to get myself a new truck but right now the only trucks I seem to find that are relativly affordable are the 6.0 liters and I absolutly don't want one of those. Is option A a 1500 ram pick up? If not then I would get a 3500 crew cab dually Cummins and most likely not a Big Horn.

Bodylines - Win

Color - Win

Racing stripes - No like

Wheels - No like

Prefer something like these

http://carsroute.com/d2forged-corvette-z06-knight-rider/

 

* Like the car and agree most are owned by people north of 50 (Unfortunately I am getting close)..

 

That is nice. I really like the wheels.

Ok guys finally sold the bike. Looking for a 98-02 v8 fbody, preferably t56 this time and under $5500. Let me kno I ya got something.

 

Snowflake on the board has a 98 with a fresh motor and an A4 that he is selling.

Yes it forged. Sending txt.

 

Thats a really good deal. Please let me know if Matt ends up not getting it.

It really does sound like there is air in the system still. You could try to purge any air that might be in the lines by loosening the clamps just a tiny bit. Just enough to let some coolant leak out. If you need to also you can slide a pick under the hose with the clamp loose. Of course this has to be done with the engine warmed up so you gotta be carefull. Not that you most likely didn't know all of this. Hope you get it fingered out.

I hope they get it figured out for her. I can only imagine what options they have given you at this point.

Have you tried the dealer, I bet they are

In stock.

 

I did call the dealer and afterwards I felt like the girls in this video...

 

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107661

 

After my company discount they wanted $65 for 5 bolts, the non-discount price was $112.35 plus tax. Byers only had 1 in stock.

Valve seals +/- valve guides

I just got off the phone with fastenal and they have some that are M6x1.0x110. They are a little short but I think they will work. Honestly Scott I was trying to find your number because I figured you would have some. I use to have some extra but I think I gave them to dan when I sold him a stock intake.

Does anyone here have some extra LS1 intake manifold bolts? I need 5 to complete a job and I would like to get them today if possible.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/733314/fullsize/capture.jpg

 

This is what we all want to see.

Cool Im IN... Make sure you drill it into his head....PREP PREP PREP!!!!

 

And then when he finally gets it, remind him to prep.

I know..........I can't think of any sport requiring such massive courage to be good at...PERIOD

 

You can't see it from the video but there are huge indentations in the gas tank/seat area for thier solid steel balls.

After you grind manually about 20 of the 32 rings you need to grind you will say otherwise. LOL

 

Oh BTW, I do have a manual type. I'd be happy to let you borrow it but it would have to wait till next week.

 

At a cost of $230.00 it may seem expensive but it will pay for itself, especially if you use it a few times.