M0nk3y

BCM is top notch. I have a few BCM ARs and their reputation is well deserved.

 

Unless you want a fancy piston gun or something unique like a KAC, a BCM is the way to go especially for the price.

I was initially going to go with the S&W MOE Mid...I really want a mid length system and that is the S&W that offers it. I'm also kind a magpul fanboy, and like their products (Helps I have 10 PMags sitting here too)

Anyways, a S&W would of been $1075 through Fin Feather Fur...I decided to do more research on a build, and found this stripped version that I can throw on magpul for essentially the same price

I've bought quite a bit of parts from them. Always fast shipping and quality service. That's all the info I have to offer.

Good to know regardless....would probably plan to pick up local to avoid shipping and FFL

Anyone know this manufacture?

I was initially looking at a S&W M&P15 MOE...but for the price I can get something that seems 1000% better.

I was initially going to build one out...but it seems this may be a better route.

http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=MID-750-C

Adding the MOE handguard and stock, comes to $1099...just needs a rear flip up at $50ish dollars.

Thoughts? Any better prices to build?

M0nk3yy31

Game should be here the 31st

Lake effect this morning in Cleveland.

Still rocking summers

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/24/buga2ame.jpg

^Epic.

 

Love that car man.

Thanks Jones

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Own the Road by M0nk3yy31, on Flickr

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Reflection off on a headlight? Say it aint so!

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Thanks in advance! I'll update information as necessary with extended testing and/or any edits to the review

As the title says, I'm going to be doing a full write up for a DIY with a review of the Dodo Juice Supernatural Infinity Nano Paint Sealant. This was my first time using such a product, so it should be a fairly good comparison for anyone else that wants to tackle such a procedure.

Before I start, fair warning: Use this product at your own risk, please read the warning carefully and follow the instructions. Anyone that is said in this thread is strictly from my experience, and might not work on all cars. Use this product in a well ventilated area!!!

Warnings and product application directions here: http://www.detailedimage.com/product-downloads/Dodo-Juice-Supernatural-Infinity-Paint-Sealant-Application.pdf

So, if you weren't scared away by that warning, lets start!

Dodo Juice Supernatural Infinity Nano Paint Sealant is a direct competitor of 22PLE and like products. Dodo Juice claims that protection can be had as much as 24 months! Full description below:

Supernatural Infinity Nano Paint Sealant will leave behind an incredible amount of gloss and protection lasting 18 - 24 months in one easy to use coating! This product is a truly unique form of protection that is unlike traditional sealants or waxes but applies just as easy. Supernatural Infinity Nano Paint Sealant utilizes a quartz formula that leaves behind a hard barrier of paint protection between your paint and harmful environmental elements. It will protect against UV rays, road salt, airborne contaminants, bird droppings and more, while contamination will not readily stick to the surface. The protection is strong but also extremely durable making it far superior to traditional waxes and sealants. Sealants and waxes will generally provide you with up to 6 months of protection, however you can expect a whopping 18-24 months with the Supernatural Infinity Nano Paint Sealant! Achieve a deep, wet, glossy, slick finish with the Dodo Juice Supernatural Infinity Nano Paint Sealant!

Step 1: Wash the car thoroughly. I would probably go to the point of saying that you want to wash the car as if it is going to be displayed in a Contours event the next day. The product needs the car to be as clean as possible, any dirt, grime...etc will hurt the durability. This is a good time to strip any existing protection as well. Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss is a good product. I personally used Chemical Guys Maxi Suds mixed with Meguiars D104 APC+. APC will help strip anything left on the paint...in my case Wolfgang 3.0 Sealant.

Step 2: Dry the car, dry, dry, dry....Did I mention dry the car? The product cannot make any contact with water for 24 hours while curing. The directions actually state up to 72 hours. I would say, the longer the better. I actually washed the car the night before, and stored it in the garage overnight to let it dry.

Step 3: Do any correction or claying as needed. This is another ideal step to preping the surface to be as clean as possible. I clayed by car and used a Makita 9227c with a black LCC pad with Menzerna PO85RD. Considering my car only had 8,000 miles on the car, I figured this was enough.

Step 4: Wipe the surface down with 50/50 Water/Isopropyl Alcohol mix. This will actually help remove the fillers from the polish, remove any protection that would just happen to be left behind after polishing, and dry the paint surface one more time...alcohol is the magic behind this:

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g135/1nFeCt1oN/DSC_0055_zpsbe2d2598.jpg

Step 5: Okay, we are finally able to start applying the product! The lint-free towel will be used for removal. It is a good idea to order some extra, fresh microfiber towels (I ordered 3). One was used for applying the product, and the other 2 were for final wiping and cleaning up.

You do NOT need much product for a given body panel. You will want to apply enough to a microfiber towel to do 1/2 of a panel. If you do too much, you won't be able to level off the product quick enough and you'll be left with a sticky panel...which I will explain later.

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A little spot, as pictured is plenty. Start to wipe the product around the panel, on lighter cars it is extremely difficult to see where you're actually applying....and your head will most likely look like this:

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Now the idea is to start leveling the product with your lint-free towel during the drying process. Unlike wax or sealant, you DO NOT want it to dry completely/flash over...etc. A typical timeline given was 2-5 minutes. I found that 2 minutes was the perfect time to start leveling off the coating. You're not actually removing the product, more so just spreading the coating around evenly to ensure complete coverage. If you started to level off too early, you will streak the product again. It was a very touchy flashover point.

The coating starting to "bubble"

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Leveling off:

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Done!

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After a couple of panels, you'll start to notice that the coating will start to "bubble" when it is just about time to start leveling the product.

Now, if you let the product dry a bit too much, you'll notice that your lint-free towel will start to "stick" to the panel. This isn't good. Simply just apply a bit more product and re-start the process. If you don't do this, you'll see very quickly that the product will smear, and be a utter pain in the....well you know where this is going.

This process will take some time, so please allow that. It took me around 3 hours to apply and "level" the coating around the whole car. Please take your time, unlike wax or sealant...which can be removed and "undone" fairly easy...this will need to be polished out of the paint if you screw up. Better safe than sorry here as well.

After leveling the panel, I took a MF towel and went back over the panel to ensure no hazing or streaking was present. I made sure this was a good 10 minutes after leveling to make sure the product was dry, and not a sticky feeling. This will take time to realize when it is okay to do so.

Now, Dodo Juice (via DetailedImage) told me that the product is not recommended for glass or clear bra...as well as plastic. Well, I went against their word and did all of the above. I applied the coating to headlights, taillights, glass and clear bra with no ill effects. I will mention though, I did observe a lot of streaking on the windshield...This could be because the lint-free towel was used quite a bit and could have some excess residue left on it from other panels OR the product just doesn't like glass as much. Some elbow grease and this wasn't an issue anymore.

Doing some glass:

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So, here is my official rating and review:

COST: 8/10 - One of the best priced coatings per mL on the market. However spending $79.99 isn't for everyone.

EASE of USE: 6/10 - The product isn't for the faint of heart. It required constant attention, making sure the product wasn't over drying/streaking...etc

DURABILITY: TBD - The car will see full winter duties, so we will have to see how beading is maintained throughout the year. I will be happy to see a year worth of protection before degrading.

BEADING: 9/10 - One of the best beading I've seen from any product I've used. It will be interesting how well it will hold up. The water rolls over very easily.

PROTECTION: 10/10 - What really impressed me is how well this protects. I know this is really early, as I've only had the product on the car for 2 weeks, but cleaning the car was too easy. Washing with a mitt, the car felt like glass. The mitt was sliding all over the car with just some simple soap. Bugs that were plastered all over the car, which we all know are a paint to remove once baked on the car, simply slid off the car. I was sold instantly...and I've never saw that before.

Onto more pictures!

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"everyone" does NOT have a good supply. And, sadly, I fear we will never see Bricks below $25 again...

 

KillJoy

Yep. Does suck, thankfully that is still relatively cheap compared to ever other ammo on the market. I wouldn't/don't mind spending that money for a couple days of fun

I could be McSteakin but wouldn't a car produce less emissions since it has a full exhaust system and all that crap? Karts probably just have a simple muffler

 

Either way this place looks like a blast and I hope its worth it.

The carts in Cinci actually have Cats but still have an issue with the carbon monoxide.

They were taking with going with a more efficient cat that is more high-flow, but it would cost too much money

Here's what I got from my friend:

 

Aaron was telling me about it last year. From that conversation, it's going to be like Full Throttle in terms of permanent track layout, competitive format, and karts. He said he was aiming for a course with similar speeds but lap times near 1min instead of 30sec. I'm willing to bet that pricing will be similar to Full Throttle as well.

Awesome. I'll make the drive down for an endurance type event

yes

 

he's also the local NASA (Great Lakes/Midwest region) Chief Instructor and he's raced karts for years...as well as road raced Miatas and other stuff

Very nice guy as well.

supposed to be open at the end of the month......Spring 2013 has already passed

Any shots of indoor layouts? Website is kinda bare.

CR Endurance Race anyone?

BUMP!

 

Updated criteria....can't update OP.

 

Looking for 93-95 with Vanos E36 325i (sedan first, coupe second)

 

Biggest concern is rust, I'm looking for very little to none.

 

I have kicked search into high gear, so please let me know if you have something or hear of something.

Booo! RUST BAD

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/17/danupuqe.jpg

(Will try and keep on looking). Found a car today parked on a lawn but wasn't the correct year/model

Meguiars quick interior detailer.

 

/end thread

Yep, basically.

I have Aerospace 303 and Wolfgang Trim Sealant that I won and TBH all of them perform the same task.

That lighting will be good.

 

Opti-coat flashes and disappears...in general it does not need buffed to remove residue you only have to remove residue from the high spots...they'll still appear wet / dark / whatever after the surrounding areas have already flashed off clear.

 

The high spots are like Klasse. They'll still look darker / wet / whatever but they won't easily buff off if they sit too long. First 3-5 minutes yes, miss something and find it later and it'll be a bitch. The trick to getting it is re-applying to that area to basically soften things up with fresh product. With 22PLE you have to remove it like a wax / sealant and it comes off very easily the issue is it smears around sometimes.

 

I use good microfiber for removal.

 

you *can* apply stuff over the top...but the theory is that durability will suffer because it won't bond. Everytime I've tried to top opti-coat with anything it turned into a streaky mess and I wasn't happy with the looks so I just stopped. The weird part is fully cured paint with opti-coat on it feels like absolutely bare paint. It's not slick to the touch, it's almost grabby. You'd think with that texture when cured you could layer stuff on top if you want but I've not had much success. Even my favorite spray wax for cleaning up after washes tends to streak.

Thanks again Andy, looks like I might pull the trigger on 22PLE. When you encounter smearing or streaking? Is that a function of over-applying? Is correction simply by just keep on wiping that excess off or do you use some QD to help assist?

As well, do you apply with a foam pad, MF...?

Very odd that even wax just doesn't look right. Sealant not bonding makes sense.

I might be adventurous and try the Dodo Juice Sealant that just came out.

Love 22PLE

 

Forgive the orange peel, Subaru can't paint a car for shit.

Don't worry, BMW can't paint either.

I've used a good bit of both Opti-coat and 22PLE.

 

I've got over 24 months of data points and observations with Opti-coat and around 14 months worth of the same for 22ple. This is all my personal observations.

 

Ease of use: Well neither is "easy" to use each has it's quirks. Both need to be in a very well lit environment so that you can see what's going on with them. Optimum need to go on and flash on the surface. No buffing it off per say HOWEVER you do need to go back and knock down high spots that you'll see because they aren't flashing as quickly as the rest and could cause a variance in color. 22PLE wipes on and needs to set there for 2-3 minutes and then removed. 2 brand new towels are needed for removal and those towels need to be thrown away after application. First towel will remove a good bit of residue but the 2nd is needed to really get the surface clean. As the towels soil it really starts to smear around quite a bit before it comes off the surface clean. I usually end up using more like 3-4 towels for the process. I give the nod here to Opti-Coat by just a smidge.

 

Durability - I don't have enough time on 22ple to be the expert in this right now. Based on industry reports Opti-coat gets the nod here. I can tell you after 24 months on my daily driver that lives outside 24/7 the horizontal surfaces were finally to a point where I wasn't happy with the level of protection from Opti-coat any longer so I broke down and re-applied. All things considered that's pretty darn strong. I think 22PLE is a little more realistic in their marketing claims of durability stating 18-24 months with their product. So far 12 months in with it on one of my other cars I have no reason to believe it won't make that 18-24 month mark easily. That car is garaged part of the time though. So either will make it 12 months easy, if you believe the industry though Opti-coat wins for durability.

 

Overall Looks after application - 22PLE wins hands down. Warmer, deeper, looks good even on dark vehicles. None of it is going to look quite as good as your go-to combo however the 22PLE will be very close with proper prep under it which I'm sure isn't an issue for you.

 

Cost...Meh product for product it's about the same. $70 min buy-in for Opti-coat though you can find it on sale every now and then. Looks like 22ple comes in 20, 30 and 50ml sizes now which is nice for flexibility. Pretty much a wash though.

 

applied on clear bra - Yes I did with both.

 

Mentions - I'm still not sure there's a clear cut winner though my personal opinion is this: I'll probably never test if any of them are capable of going past 24 months. Heck if I can get a solid 12 months out of either I'm good with it. Given that and the looks edge going to 22PLE it's been my favorite as of late. They are both great, you won't be disappointed with either as the root goal is ultimate protection for a daily driver and they will both be up to the task.

 

My gripe with 22PLE is the fact they have a different product for paint and plastic and trim and what not, optimum you put it on everything. Optimum backed off on the recommendation for applying it to glass but it's fine on glass too. I have half a mind to think the 22PLE for metal and plastic is all the same crap just in a different bottle with different label. I personally applied mine to paint and plastic and glass with no ill effects.

 

How much? 20ml will absolutely do your 1 series...probably do the whole car plus windows plus wheels as a matter of fact if you're using it sparingly. You'll probably do the paint with around 10-12 ml of product to be perfectly honest. work slow, use very little product and you'll be fine with that amount. If you are only doing paint I'd venture to say you could probably even do the Z and the 1 series both with 20ml paint only...otherwise go for a bigger size for that safety barrier.

Thanks for the time Andy.

The garage has some T8s (2 over each bay) along with 2-500 Watt Halogen Lights, would you assume this to be enough?

So let me get this straight, the Opti-Coat needs to flash over, similar to a wax hazing over? Then simply just wipe off? Knocking the high spots down just involves wiping more off in that area?

Would you rank ease of removal to say..Wolfgang or Jetseal Sealant where it falls off like butter, or Klasse High Gloss Sealant where it is a PITA if you don't time it right?

Do you need to use lint-free towels?

Lastly, you can still apply sealant and wax on top of 22PLE or Opti-Coat correct? Essentially it is a "false" clear coat and treat it as such?

Good idea on the glass, trim, and wheels. Never knew you could do that

Hey guys,

Up to this point, I've only involved myself with waxes and sealant. Currently I'm using Wolfgang 3.0 topped with Dodo Juice HC and RB.

Now with my new (to me) car, I want to get a longer term sealant for the winter months. With only 7k miles on the car currently, it is in flawless shape. I do have access to a heated garage and access to wash equipment, but maintaining a relatively "weaker" sealant isn't on my to-do list.

So, I've been carefully studying the products above and clearly I'm lost with which to go with.

Opinions wanted on:

Ease of Use

Durability

Overall Looks After Application (Does it enhance/inhibit gloss/depth)?

Initial Cost

Can it be applied on clear bra?

Anything that should be mentioned.

As well, I need to know general size recommendations. The car is a 1 series, so relatively small. I may/may not consider doing the Z4M as well as it will be in storage. Can I get away with a 20mL kit?

Thanks in advance,

C. I had a shield and sold it to get the C simply because of the weight. The shield is nice, but since it's so lightweight it has more recoil than I'd like.

+1

I have a M&P40c. I like the extra rounds and am not bothered by the extra width over the shield

My fastest run from yesterday, good for 1st in RTR and 4th in PAX

Sounds much better than a vw beetle.

Whew!

I was concerned about that

So it only replaces the Mufflers at the end? Are there still big gains to have when doing a full exhaust vs. just the mufflers? Other than that sounds good, sounds like a BMW.

There are no full systems for the Z4M. One company just produced one and runs in excess of $2.5k IIRC.

You are correct, these are just mufflers. You can buy an aftermarket X-Pipe that deletes the resonator and will make it louder. You could probably remove the secondary cats in the first section which sits before the X-Pipe and create your own full system

The gains would really only be from lost weight. A tune can probably help increase some power, but on a NA engine like this there is little to be gained without headers. I lost around 15 pounds on mufflers

I was able to pick up a used Rogue Engineering El Diablo Exhaust for cheap a week or so ago.

I've finally been able to install it earlier this week and get some video of it.

Enjoy!

http://www.rogueengineering.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RE&Product_Code=MZ4DIA&Category_Code=