vonrottes

He just bought a Daytona R/T last year and thought he was going to throw a centrifugal supercharger on it... Only to find out the pistons in them grenade with boost. He's trying to go fast as cheaply as possible. I don't get it really He KNOWS speed is expensive. He's seen even seen me try to skirt by with homemade or cheap alternative parts on my piece of shit only to see it stop working...and eventually blow up in my face. Just looked at that, I'll show it to him, maybe try to sway him into another car lol Had a really good engine builder...and was willing to drop several thousand dollars on good parts. Man knows how to set up a leaf spring rear end and can tune a carb like no other..... When it comes to the new fangled stuff he sees something on YouTube and believes that is every outcome. He's got bikes....just bought a.....uh.... Harley something or other glide. Back in like March. It's like a 3rd mid life crisis wanting to race again....maybe get back to how things were in like 2007/2009? Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

It's what he has as a DD and for whatever reason he wants to make it a 1,000hp daily... I personally would rather he get another firebird or something cool.....like an old impala or K5... But his truck is clean and has nothing wrong with it mechanically. No doubt they can, but he just wants to bolt on this cheap ass kit and call it a day. No new fuel pump, no injectors, no ARP bolts....just the kit and boom 1,000hp for $2,000.. He thinks that since the listing says it's a 1,000hp kit... He won't need to change anything... Think the listing also says something along the lines of "tuning optional" and only needing to go with a colder plug. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Because when it blows up it becomes my responsibility to replace the engine.... Oh, no I've got him to understand the transmission and rear end will not hold up.. I've tried to tell him the engine will need more work than just bolting on a turbo, but he's got it in his head for some reason that it will work.... I thought I had him convinced to go Nitrous for awhile, until I told him a laptop would need to be plugged in when ever he used the Nitrous since HPT would be the controller.... I just don't get it, he understands how much you have to do in order to make that kind of power on a SBC but thinks a 4.8 can handle it stock. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Alright, so my dad wants to start racing again...and his urge is being fueled by street outlaws. He used to race a grey 1980 firebird out at trails and ran low 10's when he sold it. Now that I've got him convinced to run an LS in a new race car. He wants to use his 2005 Silverado 1500 ext cab with a 4.8 and boost the shit out of it with hopes of running in the 11's but to do this he's looking at some $2,000 eBay kit that says it's good for 1,000hp with twin 52's iirc. And he is also convinced that since hotrod got 1,000hp out of a 4.8 he can do the same without changing any internals.... I've tried to sway him towards the ON3 70mm single kit... Which I know probably isn't much better but it at least looks more professional and doesn't use full silicone cold side piping... So if anyone has horror stories on ebay turbos, or how a 100% stock LR4 can not make 1,000hp and WILL NOT push a nearly 5,000lb truck into the 11's without serious power/modifications Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

I'm in. Got a friend that lives out in Huber. Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

found a set of 799 heads from a 2005 Trailblazer with a L33 5.3 shouldn't be more than about $150 for the set, intake ports on one and three had standing water, oil inside the valve cover looked tar. For the price would they be worth getting if the chambers look good? Machine work will be needed before they go on my LM7 so... it's fine if they need a little work.

Jegs Might have something?

Just figured I'd let post saying I got it fixed. Took the throttle body off, checked the TPS, cleaned the whole throttle body and IAC (which had a lot of soot in it) also found my battery cables had gotten really loose... But it's idling fine now and has not had any problems all week

if it was fuel related wouldn't the STFT go way up and injector pulse width increase trying to compensate for a lack of pressure? Again thoug, not ruling that out so I will look into it as well. I do, but I forgot to save the log from yesterday morning when it wouldn't run. if it does it again I will be sure to log it and actually save it.

It's running stock injector timing(from a 2004 Silverado) and stock MAF tables on a stock engine save for headers. Like I said this is just something that happened over the last week or so. It has apparently started doing it while hot now as well, died three times in Etna earlier. I wish it would at least surge when it does it, like if the maf was unplugged or something, but it just idles down and dies, doesn't even try to bring up the idle... I have not had time to really tear anything apart and look into the issue further, hopefully I have time tomorrow.

I have not, I'm not ruling anything out. But I just replaced it fall 2014. I will look into it though

Been having an issue the last week or two that is not consistent in when it happens.. Sometimes the engine in my truck won't idle cold, only happens at start up, runs fine with just enough throttle to maintain an idle speed, even at 500rpm. but if I let off the throttle it will idle down and just stall, but start right back up. runs perfectly fine once the ECT hits about 190-200F. at first I thought it was the IAC going out, but I hooked it up to HPT and commanded 128 on the IAC steps and got it to idle around 700rpm commanding a higher idle speed did nothing. When it's doing this the fuel trims are going around -2 or -3 at start up but holding the throttle they stay around 0 to +3 This is something that just started, though it did happen ONCE when I tried to flash a RTT mod, but went away when I went back to a stock OS. I've been running the same tune for a few months, only big change I've made is 14* timing at idle but that was a good 3 months ago, and a returnless fuel rail and "628" injectors back in february I'm really at a loss, not seeing ANYTHING weird pop up in the scanner. HPT and Torque pro. No DTC or pending.

I'll be at cc&c since I have not been out in a bit. Tomorrow looks like weather is gonna be real nice.

Have kind of been neglecting the hoopty due to increased rent and being broke..... February I did switch over to 974 25lb injectors, returnless rail and Corvette filter, was still having "cold" start issues having to let the pump fully prime before it would fire.. Last week truck died on 270 on my way home from work, thought it was the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump.... after pulling the pump out of the tank... http://67.media.tumblr.com/ffba4bd562e369064e91b2716b0d34d0/tumblr_o97hjjkuBs1suerqbo4_1280.jpg http://67.media.tumblr.com/166911400d29f64de8207f51adaf8087/tumblr_o97hjjkuBs1suerqbo1_1280.jpghttp://67.media.tumblr.com/c51c57ee38e105f8aa83ee05cb7a4273/tumblr_o97hjjkuBs1suerqbo2_1280.jpg http://66.media.tumblr.com/eee85648374608239c8378ff2a58633d/tumblr_o97hjjkuBs1suerqbo3_1280.jpg (melted the female plug and burnt the male plug, also melted the shrinkwrap and looks like it started to melt the solder on the wires.) There was plenty of warnings online and even a warning card in the box when I bought the pump that the stock wiring may night be able to handle the 15 amp draw of the pump.. So this is 100% my fault, went ahead and ordered a "upgraded" bulkhead and harness from Racetronix and it should be here today. I didn't check the current draw of the pump with pressure in the lines, but I checked it in a cup of fuel hooked up to a motorcycle battery and it pulled 6.67 amps, so I'm hoping the pump is OK and shorting out didn't burn it up. And the hose clamps on the pump/sending unit seemed a little loose when I pulled it out, maybe the cold start issue was just a leak at the little hose inside the tank, not letting the lines hold any pressure.

in lens AF...using a 5000 series? If you were willing to use a manual lens... Vivitar Series 1 70-210 F3.5 is a great lens for it's age. the first 5 versions are great and can be picked up for like less than $30 on ebay.. Only down side is if you don't have an internal focus motor, you probably won't have metering with a non-CPU lens. pretty much all I shoot with on my D5300

How is the viewing angle and color reproduction? Bought an LED Acer when my HP monitor died based on internet reviews and it's terrible for everything..

You can use my hoopty if only I had all the body work done.

I can do it, but it will cost $99 which is the price of HPtuner credits.

Yeah I did the same thing with 706 heads last summer. A cordless drill and a $35 drill bit and about an hour and I had the extractor and 4 broken bolts out... Even did it with the heads still on the engine. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

I second this, not sure if srs.

Probably be there if my girlfriend doesn't sleep past the alarm again lol... Plus my friend with the rsx type s will be out as well

Just extract them.... It's time consuming.. But it can be done with a good carbide bit...which are about $20-30 each

Can't really find much on tuning the old zetec foci... only thing I've found is sct tuner...thing. Hptuners just replied with "not a supported vehicle" after I emailed support with the appropriate files when I got a "validate checksum error" So is sct the only option for the old focus???? I don't need a synonym tune on it, just turn the CEL off and adjust for the cai, long tube and other little mods. To make it a little more....fun to drive.

lol damn... But yeah I mean, it is only $50 a year.... go ahead and pay for it and if you see it on sale somewhere, just pick up an extra card or two

They wouldn't touch my S10.... told me ALL they could do was a stock style Y-pipe with a single Cat. to a 1 in 2 out flowmaster. 0/10 would not suggest for custom work.