vonrottes

Guy that got in it at Kroger was late 30's to early 40's

Found this.....creature at Kroger yesterday Posted the pictures on another site and then someone found....THIS http://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/5088766643.html I mean I've seen some TERRIBLE cars/trucks in columbus.... but this is by far the worst. EDIT: Those pictures in the ad the car was sitting at Wet audio on Georgesville...

Either way... Oil pump or bearing the engine has to come out. Stockish pump is $127 Good excuse to do some stuff I should have done when I put the engine in.

Voltage holds at 14.7 my gauges are all electronic and if there is a short they all kind of ...freak out.. and yes it is on my S10. The oil gauge is a single wire run straight to the dash from the sending unit. Obviously I'll need to get a mechanical gauge to be sure, but like I said the lifters start making noise when it drops at a stop.

Truck is running fine, but oil pressure plummets from 40-60psi to what I'm assuming is 5-10psi (my digital gauge reads a constant 2 bars so I think 5psi high.) managed to repeat the drop several times. 1. Accelerating from a stop (even lightly) 2. Accelerating at speed (especially up hill) 3. Making RIGHT turns 4. Loading the engine in gear I babied it from Etna to west Columbus keeping oil pressure by driving like an uninsured elderly person... When the engine free revs in P/N oil pressure will climb to 80psi like normal. but footbrake it in gear and the pressure drops like someone flipped a switch. at speed when it drops, the engine starts luggin and having a hard time keeping momentum. At a stop when the pressure dropped the lifters started ticking... If I shut the engine off when pressure holds low for more than a few seconds and start it back up it climbs up to 40-50psi idling. So I am assuming this is a REAL failure and not electrical. Thinking the pressure relief valve???? I did check the oil level and it was good... since the whole turning thing made me think the pickup was sucking air and I have put at least 10,000 miles on it since the swap so I don't think it is the pick up tube O-ring

This is what I got back asking about it. Smoking aces bar has bike night 4-7 on Sunday's through summer and wand GG to come wash bikes and take pix So... Yeah.

I'm working on getting all the details from the guy putting this on. But what I've gathered from my girlfriend is it's July 5th... Somewhere in Dayton... Apparently there are going to be a bunch of the "Goregous girls" models washing motorcycles or something. I'm assuming it will be like the last few events and be held at a bar, with live music... and double as a magazine "release party" which they do raffles and crap. I'm obligated to be there, so I figure why not try to get a few people out there. If anyone is interested in cruising out with my girlfriend and I we could meet up somewhere in Hilliard off i70 and head out sunday morning. I'll either be driving the hoopty or stealing my dad's Motorcycle.

Bought this when I lived in Urbana and have just lost interest in it. It was bought as the first gen Slayer, but I upgraded the chassis to the extended/blue anodized chassis of the "pro 4x4" or revo 3.3R has RPM tie-rod ends, locked rear & center diff with silicone, rechargeable battery pack, 3.3R engine with pullstart (still have all the EZ start parts & wand) new bearings in the clutch and all stainless bolts, brand new Proline badland tires one Proline revolver wheels. (just remembered looking at the pictures, the header is from a 3.3 4-tec, so it's a little janky, but works fine... it's all the hobby shop had when the old header ripped in half) has some spare parts, still have all the extra RCscrewz stainless hardware in the box, Battery charger for RX pack and EZ start pack, few other odds and ends and almost a gallon of 20% fuel. pretty much a RTR kit with extras. maybe has 2 gallons on it?? always used ARO and stored at BDC, runs great, transmission shifts fine and electronics work. Selling it because I'm trying to clean up some of my stuff. Asking $200. would be interested in trading+cash for a Nikon DSLR D5100 or better

W.broad needs to be a thing, they are redoing all our road over here finally! Georgesville at 270 to auto mall is pretty nice now

I'm in on the NBS Chevy SUV Yukon, Tahoe or whatever the hell they were called in the early 2000's. I'd say a 2008+ but they might be out of the price range(though the interior is nicer and the engine is a little better)

~I won't be out... the Hoopty is down with a broken something in the steering column.

What, no fords?

Totally in.... I haven't done anything since I got my friend pulled over in his RSX at polaris a few weeks ago.

Dorman harness, DWB or whatever sensors and torqued down to exactly 15 lb-ft Both my truck and my dads. Cleared the codes on his truck and started getting a pending code after about 5 miles on i70 Mine when I replaced the sensor harness I also repinned the engine harness plug since there was a little crap on the bottom pin (bottom pin is the back sensor right?) Started it up the first time and codes had cleared themselves.

No, and I know I should have but the harnesses still looked in good condition.. When I had them apart I checked to make sure the con connections weren't corroded and when I hooked a multimeter up to them there was no resistance between the sensor plugs and the engine harness plug. But when I take them apart tomorrow I will replace the harness.

Most of you know I've got that piece of crap S10 with a 4.8L swap.. but my dad also has a 2005 Silverado with a 4.8L. a few weeks ago both of our truck had the CEL come on with a P0332 code. I got my knock sensors replaced almost immediately.. and everything worked fine until today going down i70 my tablet shouted a fault code was found... pending P0332 it's been nearly 3 weeks? and just now threw a code? And then my dads truck. he bought the cheap-o amazon parts and got both P0332 and P0327 with them Replaced with new sensor from advance and they worked fine for about 50 miles. With both trucks I "tested" the knock sensors three ways: 1. top terminal to bottom stud ~100-102kohm 2.top terminal to engine block ~ 100-102kohm 3.wire harness socket to engine block ~ 100-102kohm With both truck the clean-up/removal included sucking the rust/water out with a shot vac, removing the sensors, sucking extra crap out with the shop vac again and then letting it air dry for about 1 hour. Assembly I put the sensors back in, tightened them down, plug the harness in and used RTV around the rubber caps. TL;DR mine and my dads trucks both had P0332 codes, installed new knock sensors and still getting P0332

After months of having them, I was forced to replace the brakes early last weekend... Apparently decelerating 60mph by slamming on 10 year old pads isn't good for them. Front's literally fell apart when I pulled them off, rears were cracked. The passenger side wheel bearings were rusty and all four rotors were horribly grooved. http://36.media.tumblr.com/1c27de26f0317d7410cad39a6e25ffb8/tumblr_np6fo4IClD1suerqbo3_500.jpg http://40.media.tumblr.com/63a143886221127ea8bc29ab983202c7/tumblr_np6fo4IClD1suerqbo4_500.jpg Replaced all the front hardware (bearings, grease seals, dusts caps, Calipers and hoses) rears I just slapped on the new parts. Something else I'm working on is adding a 2002 Camaro BCM which will add an alarm, R.A.P, battery rundown protection, keyless entry and other silly things that make modern cars so convenient.

I guess you could call that "drag wagon" a........ DRAGON?

I'll be out at polaris tomorrow... Might have a few people with me so I might be in an ugly orange Charger instead of my black & rust hoopty.

I'll be there.... Literally about a 5 minute drive from my house.

No friday night fun for me... I've got to work.

Free event at norwalk June 6-7 http://www.summitracing.com/expertadviceandnews/calendar/upcoming/2015-super-summit Anyone going?

I FIXED THINGS I FIXED THINGS! After nearly two years of running around on blown out header gaskets... I finally bought some MLS gaskets (victor reinz MLS) These are the ones that came with the headers I bought... everyone told me to buy MLS or use RTV and I didn't listen. http://41.media.tumblr.com/2f9c87630b22089482c6e666dddeb640/tumblr_noprobJ9Ek1suerqbo1_500.jpg No sooner than I started the truck up after tightening the collectors down the CEL came on with a P0332 code... Damn knock sensors. So I got those replaced Friday and got the chance to clean up 16 years worth of road slime. http://41.media.tumblr.com/fa2e89cd58e4d51752cd9bd5e4dd2a7f/tumblr_nou8sb9lc71suerqbo1_500.jpg http://41.media.tumblr.com/31de8516182275d4694f4ee125393738/tumblr_nou8sb9lc71suerqbo2_500.jpg http://41.media.tumblr.com/24b8964f1cddf6cc0fe805ac724c52ba/tumblr_nou8sb9lc71suerqbo3_500.jpg The amount of carbon in the intake and heads was a bit disturbing... but I just chalked it up to the EGR that was hooked up for 180k But after I got those sensors replaced the truck runs PERFECTLY.. Fuel trims are no longer pegging at +24 at idle and are holding steady at 0.0 to +0.8 and the timing advance has increased by about 12 deg Before the new gaskets and sensors http://36.media.tumblr.com/616afdf7c2949d805fb5ec51b8957ba7/tumblr_nnu4g9NwZG1suerqbo1_500.png AFTER gaskets and sensors http://40.media.tumblr.com/5dacae3551a6bbd9a843cc309ed2f8c8/tumblr_noxw0zvTx11suerqbo1_500.png idle is incredibly smooth.... not quite as smooth as my dads '05 silverado but I do have poly engine mounts not rubber. Throttle response is great and power output feels as though it has increased.... I'm currently researching aerodynamics for a few things some people might not approve of... but will, if done correctly be very beneficial for power and handling

I'd buy a modded car so long as it didn't look like a hack-job if the wiring was clean and everything was nice looking and in order that means the person probably actually took the time to do things right and didn't just throw crap together. in other words.... DO NOT buy something that looks like my truck.

I'm replacing knock sensors..... shouldn't take long to pull the intake and put it back on. Might be out tonight.