vonrottes

Yes just a standard LR4 So I'm still lost on a cam and springs. But what about ported/polished 799 heads milled down to 60cc combustion chambers?

But I want to keep the lower displacement so it will rev higher, faster. I know it sounds weird, but I just like the sound of fast revving engines. and with a 83mm stroke and 96mm bore. rebalancing the internals, upping the valve train and doing some stuff to just straight up make more power.... I don't see any reason why a built 4.8 couldn't spin up to 7,500 and get there relatively quick.

on a 4.8 making 250hp stock?

I knew it would happen....after I went from the 2.8 to a 4.8 I still want to go faster.... Not a lot faster....just a little bit.... And since I don't have funds/transportation or anything else really to tear my truck apart and rebuild the engine... I'd like to build a second engine. Ideally I'd like to get about 400whp more is fine. don't want anything crazy since I want it to run on pump gas since it will remain a daily driver. But here is my idea: Firstly I want to build this as a 4.8 so I'm keeping the stock Stroke/bore "bolt-ins" JE 7.5 dome pistons LS6 intake Scorpion roller rockers new "stock" lifters & retainers No idea on cam/springs yet Cometic .030 MLS head gaskets ARP everything! Machine work Balance the rods within say .5gram port/polish & Mill the heads down just a little 60cc chambers (should be right at 11:1) port/polish the Throttle body Does that sound like it would make 400hp?

An X-pipe helps to scavenging a little more than say just a cross over pipe. don't really know what the benefits are other than that and obviously balancing the right and left exhaust

Hopefully it was just the weight on your FJ estimating my truck weighs around 2,800lb but It's also gotta stop my truck from high speed......

I put the pads on my dads 2005 silverado with stock rotors, Dad loves them and I also put the drilled/slotted rotors & Z16 pads on my sisters 2000 sunfire with no problems at all. And from what I can tell they LOOK like decent quality rotors... I mean the rears are just solid discs... but the fronts look on par with oem.

Decided AGAINST a new transmission for the time being. and instead went with getting some more upgrade parts. Which include: a 33mm front sway bar with Energy suspension bushings Which has decreased body roll to almost nonexistent in normal driving. Still doing the new transmission lines, got the ¼" NTF to -6an adapters two 90* elbows and 20' of braided stainless line, when I install that I might also relocate the transmission cooler to under the truck, add a fan and get a slightly bigger cooler. Got new drilled and slotted rotors for both the front and rear poly/ceramic Z16 pads for the rear and carbon/ceramic Z23 pads for the front from Powerstop And last of the upgrades is a..... HYDROBOOST. I know it's nothing special, but they look cooler and provide like 3x the line pressure as a vacuum booster. I got lucky and found a flat mount unit in a Astrovan.. Gotta replace all of my 15 year old + lines before I install it, which will also be all stainless. And since I think the power steering pump is also on the way out, I'll go ahead and get a new unit from a truck that had the hydroboost option, so no splicing the return lines and danger of building up pressure. Also had to replace the alternator since the bearing started screaming last Thursday night while I was up around Mt.vernon Have not taken pictures of the sway bar yet... it's too damn cold but here are the brakes & pads still sitting in my living room http://40.media.tumblr.com/45df0ff2019db82f2e34b8dddf6c8f37/tumblr_njzrf3IlaK1suerqbo4_1280.jpg http://40.media.tumblr.com/35715c8f67de8f3a503b36b9c3d5bb24/tumblr_nk65ho9xrn1suerqbo1_1280.jpg

The only time I go to the part store is for fluids, goofy parts or looking for something that isn't supposed to work on my truck.. Though, The Advance in Georgesville is my favorite because the old guy (can't remember his name) drives a white 350z and has helped me piece together shit on my s10 more than once. hell I've even pretty much sworn of Jegs in favor of Summit. Seeing as every time I go to jegs they don't have the part in stock or is a special order part.

Picknpull has two 4.8/5.3 right now and Upartit has like 7 also has one 6.0

If you watch Microcenter has some GOOD deals on CPUs, coolers and even RAM sometimes. I got my CPU for $99, RAM for $28 and cooler for $40 (mobo was open box for $70 case was on sale for $49) and got my GPU second hand for $120 (in 2012) Although I have a Asus board in my intel rig and an Asus Tablet, I don't really care for their products (lots of people have trouble with their RMA) PSU should be fine if you don't overclock much. Try this to get an idea of what you'll need. You do NOT want to go overkill on those because then you are just wasting power, those certifications are at peak consumption PSU efficiency increases as the load is increased usually peaking around 80%

Latest new on the Hoopty... Radio got stolen and instead of replacing it I but a piece of sheet metal ion the hole and screwed a Ram Ball to it and put a Tablet mount on that. Inside the radio hole I installed a little Pyle Marine amp with a 3.5mm jack in place of the cigarette lighter, bought a nice scantool SX and have a Nexus 7 LTE as my headunit now, runs Torque and monitor everything my gauges can't and even plays streaming music. Install pics When my taxes come back I'll be getting a slightly "built" 4L60e with a Trailblazer TC? and I guess replace the flex plate while I'm at it and I'll also be making some -6an Braided cooler lines with elbows on the transmission for easy servicing. and NO MORE BLOWN LINES! the stuff I'm using is rated to 300psi at I think 50c? and I melted one and the other literally blew the side out of it. and lastly, I'm making plans and saving up to build a new engine... With what I've got being a stock LR4 only making about 250hp. I want to build a high compression 4.8L with a goal of 400hp JE pistons, rework the heads, LS6 intake, MS3 cam? balanced rods and a few other little upgrades like roller rockers and what not. Going to be a slow garage build starting with finding another LR4. Stock rods and crank should hold up to 10.5:1 and 400hp right? (Ideally I could find a flexfuel block with the combustion chamber temp sensors and what not so I can run E85)

I've had ATT,TWC and wow over the years ATT unless you have Uverse in your area.... Don't bother with their DSL wow.... not much better than TWC in the fact that over the course of ONE year in galloway the internet went out once a month and they had to replace the modem 3 times with constant hiccups and random outages... TWC... I've had 3 times of the last few years at various locations. First time in the hilltop they were... OK speeds were great but reliability was meh. again with random outages and during "peak" hours the speed dropped A LOT In Urbana, same thing...only they decided to randomly shut off my internet after 2 weeks until I went to Dayton and verified I was who I said I was with ID,SSC and a recent bill they took all my info and I got a call telling me I was supposed to pay off my mothers bill because I made a "fraudulent" account. And now at the edge of columbus/galloway I've not had a single problem from them other than the UBEE modem I got from them is absolutely terrible.

i5 is perfectly fine for the average person... i7 for hardcore stuff... Personally I would drop down to a fx-8350 plenty of OC headroom 990fxa-UD3 is good but why not go ahead and get a UD5 it is actually better. 280X is a good choice but what brand? Ref. card or Supplier modded? (I personally like the Sapphire Vapor-x) Power supply, I remember hearing Rosewill just rebrands a good brand PSU but I'd go for a Corsair or something. And cooling... The fx9590 is a BEAST at 5ghz it SHOULD/CAN NOT BE COOLED ON AIR... I've got a cheap-o Antec 620 on my 8320 and it can't keep up with 3.8ghz when the ambient is over 70F something like a Corsair H100 would probably do the trick, if you keep your house fairly cool. And Ram, 8gb is still fine unless of course you are running high resolution, multi monitor, hardcore stuff or super high res textures. Or you plan on using it for photoshop or 3d rendering. EDIT: My specs are GA-970a-UD3 FX-8320 Sapphire HD 6870 8gb 1666 Kingston HyperX 120gb Kingston HyperX 3k SSD 1tb Western digital blue (game drive) Corsair CX750M Antec Kuhler 620 with Corsair SP120 fan Stuffed in a custom HAF912 case I can play pretty much any game on high at 1920x1080 and maintain a playable 30fps+ with the exceptions of games like GTA and Skyrim with mods, high res texture packs and ENB. EDIT EDIT with the SP120 on the radiator, a 200mm Thermaltake fan on the front and a 140mm Cougar fan on the side and custom fan profiles my CPU never touches over 36c at 3.8ghz and my GPU sits just under 60c most the time at 950mhz

Plus to driving a truck.... Very little glass to clean off. Down side is.... the bed is full of snow that goes "poof" when you take off.

Man, if that was an Enclosed SSD I'd be all over it. I need another SSD in my rig for games like skyrim with a crap load of mods.

Am I the only one here that doesn't mind playing at the junkyard to get parts like that? Because the 8.8 in an Explorer & Mountaineer are both 31 spline and I think ALL of the V8's had an LSD. Go to U-part-it on Refugee they charge $100 for the whole axle so the diff by itself can not be that much, plus per what the owner told me is they deal mostly in Police impounds & insurance totals not junk cars like Pick-N-Pull

Theres a trail that follows Blacklick creek starting around Blacklick estates. Most the trail is big enough for a truck, but a lot of it is fairly narrow, it's where I used to ride my dirtbikes when I lived over there.

But but but but but the GT350 sounds like a "tuner" with a cheap exhaust that rattles and sounds like it's made of tin cans.

After running around on Ghetto exhaust for over a year... I finally got around to getting it fixed. Stopped by Mad hatter August 29th to see if they would do it... and I was willing to drop $700 if they would but I was told they had to do a stock style Y-pipe with a single cat into either a single out or dual out muffler. Disappointed I went to Jegs the same day and bought ANOTHER V8 S10 exhaust kit, but this time had the help of my little sister, a 9" cut off wheel and a cheap wire feed welder. The pipes that came in the kit had the flanges cut off with header buddies welded in place, the drive side pipe had three cuts made in it to make it fit the LS headers. The passenger side just needed to be made longer. Obviously they also had O2 bungs welded in. All in into the provided muffler (which I love the sound of it) mounted in the stock location with pipes run all the way back to the bumper. I got everything bolted back up on August 31st and then realized I welded the passenger side pipe upside down.. But here are the pictures. Click me Hell of a lot better than the flex pipe I had last year and the shit that was falling apart over the summer. Also, got a set of Autopal E-code H4 housings and "HD headlight harness" More pictures And I also switched to a "HD" 4.3 Radiator stays around 197 which I can live with. Have not had any problems with leaks, overheating or anything from it. Over the summer I also changed the FPR...AGAIN still having intermittent hard starts (let the fuel pump run until it kicks off and it starts right up) So I'm thinking I might not have secured the rubber hose in the tank and it's letting the pressure bleed off in the tank. Changed the TPS that was actually broken but transmission still run max line pressure after WOT up/downshift, Also getting some "clunking & whooshing" sounds coming from the transmission, as well as a Vibration when the engine is revved in Neutral/park starts around 2000 and gets really bad after 3000. Think I'm just going to replace the whole transmission, Flex plate and TC this spring.

Dad had a jegs cage in his '80 trans-am. as Jones said it's a rough frame... no notches or anything, will need some adjustments.... Dad did all the cutting and had a friend weld it in... I mean, he never tested the cage... but it looked sturdy and passed tech.

pretty sure my hunk of crap wouldn't pass tech.

Depending on what's going down with my friends work schedule I may be in for it... Haven't actually just taken "Nightmare" on a cruise yet and I know the roads on the eastside are pretty nice on a bike this time of year.

2-s3@73r 1337 gr0u9 FTW!

Hmm, have to tell my dad...He's a big Nugent fan.