vonrottes

If you watch Microcenter has some GOOD deals on CPUs, coolers and even RAM sometimes. I got my CPU for $99, RAM for $28 and cooler for $40 (mobo was open box for $70 case was on sale for $49) and got my GPU second hand for $120 (in 2012) Although I have a Asus board in my intel rig and an Asus Tablet, I don't really care for their products (lots of people have trouble with their RMA) PSU should be fine if you don't overclock much. Try this to get an idea of what you'll need. You do NOT want to go overkill on those because then you are just wasting power, those certifications are at peak consumption PSU efficiency increases as the load is increased usually peaking around 80%

Latest new on the Hoopty... Radio got stolen and instead of replacing it I but a piece of sheet metal ion the hole and screwed a Ram Ball to it and put a Tablet mount on that. Inside the radio hole I installed a little Pyle Marine amp with a 3.5mm jack in place of the cigarette lighter, bought a nice scantool SX and have a Nexus 7 LTE as my headunit now, runs Torque and monitor everything my gauges can't and even plays streaming music. Install pics When my taxes come back I'll be getting a slightly "built" 4L60e with a Trailblazer TC? and I guess replace the flex plate while I'm at it and I'll also be making some -6an Braided cooler lines with elbows on the transmission for easy servicing. and NO MORE BLOWN LINES! the stuff I'm using is rated to 300psi at I think 50c? and I melted one and the other literally blew the side out of it. and lastly, I'm making plans and saving up to build a new engine... With what I've got being a stock LR4 only making about 250hp. I want to build a high compression 4.8L with a goal of 400hp JE pistons, rework the heads, LS6 intake, MS3 cam? balanced rods and a few other little upgrades like roller rockers and what not. Going to be a slow garage build starting with finding another LR4. Stock rods and crank should hold up to 10.5:1 and 400hp right? (Ideally I could find a flexfuel block with the combustion chamber temp sensors and what not so I can run E85)

I've had ATT,TWC and wow over the years ATT unless you have Uverse in your area.... Don't bother with their DSL wow.... not much better than TWC in the fact that over the course of ONE year in galloway the internet went out once a month and they had to replace the modem 3 times with constant hiccups and random outages... TWC... I've had 3 times of the last few years at various locations. First time in the hilltop they were... OK speeds were great but reliability was meh. again with random outages and during "peak" hours the speed dropped A LOT In Urbana, same thing...only they decided to randomly shut off my internet after 2 weeks until I went to Dayton and verified I was who I said I was with ID,SSC and a recent bill they took all my info and I got a call telling me I was supposed to pay off my mothers bill because I made a "fraudulent" account. And now at the edge of columbus/galloway I've not had a single problem from them other than the UBEE modem I got from them is absolutely terrible.

i5 is perfectly fine for the average person... i7 for hardcore stuff... Personally I would drop down to a fx-8350 plenty of OC headroom 990fxa-UD3 is good but why not go ahead and get a UD5 it is actually better. 280X is a good choice but what brand? Ref. card or Supplier modded? (I personally like the Sapphire Vapor-x) Power supply, I remember hearing Rosewill just rebrands a good brand PSU but I'd go for a Corsair or something. And cooling... The fx9590 is a BEAST at 5ghz it SHOULD/CAN NOT BE COOLED ON AIR... I've got a cheap-o Antec 620 on my 8320 and it can't keep up with 3.8ghz when the ambient is over 70F something like a Corsair H100 would probably do the trick, if you keep your house fairly cool. And Ram, 8gb is still fine unless of course you are running high resolution, multi monitor, hardcore stuff or super high res textures. Or you plan on using it for photoshop or 3d rendering. EDIT: My specs are GA-970a-UD3 FX-8320 Sapphire HD 6870 8gb 1666 Kingston HyperX 120gb Kingston HyperX 3k SSD 1tb Western digital blue (game drive) Corsair CX750M Antec Kuhler 620 with Corsair SP120 fan Stuffed in a custom HAF912 case I can play pretty much any game on high at 1920x1080 and maintain a playable 30fps+ with the exceptions of games like GTA and Skyrim with mods, high res texture packs and ENB. EDIT EDIT with the SP120 on the radiator, a 200mm Thermaltake fan on the front and a 140mm Cougar fan on the side and custom fan profiles my CPU never touches over 36c at 3.8ghz and my GPU sits just under 60c most the time at 950mhz

Plus to driving a truck.... Very little glass to clean off. Down side is.... the bed is full of snow that goes "poof" when you take off.

Man, if that was an Enclosed SSD I'd be all over it. I need another SSD in my rig for games like skyrim with a crap load of mods.

Am I the only one here that doesn't mind playing at the junkyard to get parts like that? Because the 8.8 in an Explorer & Mountaineer are both 31 spline and I think ALL of the V8's had an LSD. Go to U-part-it on Refugee they charge $100 for the whole axle so the diff by itself can not be that much, plus per what the owner told me is they deal mostly in Police impounds & insurance totals not junk cars like Pick-N-Pull

Theres a trail that follows Blacklick creek starting around Blacklick estates. Most the trail is big enough for a truck, but a lot of it is fairly narrow, it's where I used to ride my dirtbikes when I lived over there.

But but but but but the GT350 sounds like a "tuner" with a cheap exhaust that rattles and sounds like it's made of tin cans.

After running around on Ghetto exhaust for over a year... I finally got around to getting it fixed. Stopped by Mad hatter August 29th to see if they would do it... and I was willing to drop $700 if they would but I was told they had to do a stock style Y-pipe with a single cat into either a single out or dual out muffler. Disappointed I went to Jegs the same day and bought ANOTHER V8 S10 exhaust kit, but this time had the help of my little sister, a 9" cut off wheel and a cheap wire feed welder. The pipes that came in the kit had the flanges cut off with header buddies welded in place, the drive side pipe had three cuts made in it to make it fit the LS headers. The passenger side just needed to be made longer. Obviously they also had O2 bungs welded in. All in into the provided muffler (which I love the sound of it) mounted in the stock location with pipes run all the way back to the bumper. I got everything bolted back up on August 31st and then realized I welded the passenger side pipe upside down.. But here are the pictures. Click me Hell of a lot better than the flex pipe I had last year and the shit that was falling apart over the summer. Also, got a set of Autopal E-code H4 housings and "HD headlight harness" More pictures And I also switched to a "HD" 4.3 Radiator stays around 197 which I can live with. Have not had any problems with leaks, overheating or anything from it. Over the summer I also changed the FPR...AGAIN still having intermittent hard starts (let the fuel pump run until it kicks off and it starts right up) So I'm thinking I might not have secured the rubber hose in the tank and it's letting the pressure bleed off in the tank. Changed the TPS that was actually broken but transmission still run max line pressure after WOT up/downshift, Also getting some "clunking & whooshing" sounds coming from the transmission, as well as a Vibration when the engine is revved in Neutral/park starts around 2000 and gets really bad after 3000. Think I'm just going to replace the whole transmission, Flex plate and TC this spring.

Dad had a jegs cage in his '80 trans-am. as Jones said it's a rough frame... no notches or anything, will need some adjustments.... Dad did all the cutting and had a friend weld it in... I mean, he never tested the cage... but it looked sturdy and passed tech.

pretty sure my hunk of crap wouldn't pass tech.

Depending on what's going down with my friends work schedule I may be in for it... Haven't actually just taken "Nightmare" on a cruise yet and I know the roads on the eastside are pretty nice on a bike this time of year.

2-s3@73r 1337 gr0u9 FTW!

Hmm, have to tell my dad...He's a big Nugent fan.

My dad's 2005 Silverado Ext cab 2wd has a LR4 4.8L It does OKAY pushing around a 6000lb+ truck. doesn't have much "oumph" and probably wouldn't do to good towing. Great for driving around town and light loads in the bed. He also had a 2001 Silverado ext cab 2wd a while back with a LM7 5.3L It pulled a 1980 trans am on an open trailer fine and even pulled a decent size enclosed trailer pretty well. I personally would not touch anything with a Pre-2014 4.3L

I used to run ½ a can of Seafoam in 5 gallons on my Ninja when I had it. I also ran ¼ can in my dirt bike fuel (which was 93+ with 40:1 premix) To high of a concentration the stuff will separate from the fuel, sink to the bottom and well ...engines won't run on it.

This... 2-step + Transbrake Also, I'd say if it's not a DD get rid of the TH350 and get a powerglide. My dad's old Trans-am picked up a tenth going from a TCI TH350 to a powerglide.

Straight swap over. all I did was clean it up, paint it.... bolt it in. I'm not making anymore then 255hp, so I didn't really feel I needed to weld the tubes yet.

Right then.... so After a trip to Troy two weeks ago, I crawled under my truck and noticed the Straps on the u-joint were....EXTREMELY loose, went to tighten them and.... two of the bolts snapped off in the yoke. so instead of replacing the yoke... I finally got around to putting the 8.8 in that I've had about a month or so. got the rearend from a 2000 Explorer XLT V8 so it's got 3.73 gears, Disc brakes and Limited slip! didn't want to drill the axles or rotors so I went for some Ford wheels with a high positive offset....ended up getting 16" 2007 Escape wheels, which I personally think look bad ass on the truck. Removal pictures Finished pics Along with the swap I also got a Dana Spicer 3R to 1330 U-joint and I finally put the JTR set-back plates in. Next upgrade will be a Aluminum Drive shaft (probably from an Explorer) and Power stop brakes all the way around. with Drilled/slotted rotors and Ceramic pads.

I'll keep'em in mind if I can't find anything, it'd be worth a try. Ford Escape wheels would be idea.

That'd be great, thank you.

Thanks for the offer but.. Google says the RX7 uses a +30 offset. also uses a 59mm center bore and I have a 70.3. Again thank you for the offer, but I don't think they will work.

I just need two 16" wheels with a HIGH positive offset and a ford bolt pattern. Tires on wheels 235/70, 225/75 or 255/65 would be cool but NOT necessary! Aluminum or steel does not matter, Cheaper is better. I just need these as a temp for a ford 8.8 swap in my hoopty S10 until I can afford a set of four new matching wheels.

"HUEH HUEH HUEH HUEH"