Coaster

Not that you've used the warranty much but I doubt they were counting on as many miles as you've put on it.

Hire someone - 0 min

There fixed that for you...

I'm interested. I'd need to meet up to see if I can fit in it to drive it though.

I was running consistent 13.1s last fall at Kilkare. That was with ~2000 DA, after driving the car for a full 8 hours, with 3/4 of a tank of gas and luggage still in the trunk.... on all seasons. 12s shouldn't be too hard.

Yeah sitting in the show room. Can be yours for 125k...

http://i.imgur.com/hCRl7cPl.jpg

9am, every Saturday rain or shine.

I have a 42" that we use in a corner mount by just using a swivel arm mounted on one wall. The arm I have isn't anywhere near fully extended to get it there. As long as it is not a plasma I don't see any issues with the newer fairly light TVs even with the arm extended all the way.

If that car lost the "hood scoop" and stripes it would look ok. Not a fan of it in it's current state.

Go find some online chat rooms and pretend to be 14 year old girl looking to run away from home to TX. Some sex predator will probably buy you a ticket within the hour.

Track pack spec for now, going to see how quickly it eats tires and audjust from there.

Yep looks like nice weather for that. Cars and Coffee looks like a wash out though.

Going to be Fall or next spring. The rally this summer is not going to be cheap and will eat up all my fun money.

Yeah the post increase price on those is hard to swallow. $260 now, I only paid $150 with free shipping.

I'm not sure if Steedas will or not. I've never been under a vert so I'm not 100% sure what the additional braces look like.

Nice car, I've always wanted a WS6

I needed a new set of stands and wanted ones that could deal with the truck or camper also. Those things are rock solid.

It's Guard metallic, it's green in the sunlight and looks dark gray/black in shadows. Very hard to take pictures of. Parts were about $1700 when I bought them. Since then BMR revised their prices upwards quite a bit, several parts doubled. Factory PP option would have been $2500. Really the only PP options left that may have been useful are the bigger brakes and radiator. The base breaks I've never pushed to fading on the street or in autox and I'm not really planning to do any HPDEs. The stock radiator also seems very adequate since on the rally last summer we drove 8 hrs through Georgia then pulled the car onto Roebling Road without cool down when it was still 100F out. I was hitting ~125 on the straights, the only overheating was my poor tires melting off.

Got the car aligned this afternoon so this project is finally done. Jump to the bottom for a before/after stance shot if you get bored... I ordered my car without the Performance Pack, which was on purpose since lots of people end up swapping most of the PP parts out. The ride was nice but a little too squishy on the backroads. My goal was to get things up to PP level or better. Parts List: BMR CJR001 - Chassis Jacking Rail UPPER MOUNT - 2015 FORD MUSTANG PP (FR3Z3A197B) SHOCK ABSORBER ASY - 2015 FORD MUSTANG PP (FR3Z18124AB) BMR FC003 - Camber Bolts, Front, 2.5 Degrees Offset BMR ELK012 - End Link Kit For Sway Bars, Set Of 4 BMR SB043 - Sway Bar Kit With Bushings, Front (SB044), Rear (SB045) BMR SP080 - Lowering Springs, Set Of 4, Performance Steeda S550 Mustang Adjustable Differential Bushing Insert System - Urethane BMR TCA045 - Vertical Link, Rear Lower Control Arms, Spherical BMR CB005 - Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit TR005 Toe Rods, Rear, Double Adjustable, Rod Ends BK055 - Bearing Kit, Lower Control Arm, Rear Ford Racing Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing Assembly Ford Racing Mustang Jounce Bumper and Hardware Pack SHOCK ABSORBER - 2016 FORD MUSTANG PP (FR3Z18125W) http://i.imgur.com/QGDXxbTl.jpg So step one was the jacking rails. They made getting the car up in the air super easy and it was rock solid on my heavy jack stand set. http://imgur.com/zkwo2Qml.jpg I tore into the front first since it was my first time actually unmounting a spring from a McPherson strut. I had no real issues in the front other than the sway bar bolt under the alternator. A ratcheting end wrench would have saved a ton of time taking it off. http://i.imgur.com/Fog46Apl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/4kzrvrFl.jpg Next up was the rear. My main goal the first day was to get the lower control arms off so I can try to swap the BK055 in. The front inner control arm bolt was tough to get broke loose, finally got it with an end wrench after I took off the toe rod and attacked it from the bottom. I tried to move the bushing with the FTBR bushing press kit. I finally gave up and took it to Lucore so that was my day one stopping point. http://i.imgur.com/E0sW5BUl.jpg Day two started with getting the diff inserts in and the cradle bushing lockout kit in place. Having the cross bar for my jack really helped when moving the cradle around. Diff bushings were easy other than the drivers side front. I had to loosen all the cradle bolts and push the cradle back as far as possible to get the bolt and bushing slipped between the cradle and gas tank. http://i.imgur.com/EWhx2Syl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7duJ5K6l.jpg Then came knuckle to toe link bushing. Since my car came with PP toe links I could have reused the bushing from them. I wanted to be able to put the car back to stock eventually and didn't feel like trying to press it out it was worth is so I just bought the FR ones. Pressing the bushing out of the car would have been much easier if I could have gotten the car a little more off the ground or I had a slightly shorter breaker bar. It was too much torque for a ratchet and my impact wrench wasn't moving it on full. Same issue pressing them back in, other than that no big deal. http://i.imgur.com/CP7fw8Gl.jpg Here are some comparisons of the stock vs new parts: http://i.imgur.com/4jtoFzzl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/33nUSOtl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ODgku1Ul.jpg Everything else went back together smoothly. http://i.imgur.com/ZUpN9cLl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/aQY3k1Hl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/viwRUa6l.jpg I took the car to Lucore to align it. They did a great job on the alignment, even weighted the drivers seat so it would be setup for me. Before/After: http://i.imgur.com/wcQkVJpl.jpg The car handles and rides great so far. I was surprised at how decent the ride is considering the amount of rubber removed from the rear. There is a tiny bit of diff noise but you can barely hear it over my exhaust. Only other noise is a little drive-line clunk that is audible when lifting off the gas at lower speeds.

Ok my wife is interested if there is any more room.

Just got back from a round trip to Cleveland today, I'm done with morons on wet highways for one day.

Happy Birthday!

OK got it all back together and put about 50 miles on it this evening. It all seems good, worst roads I could find and no weird noises. Didn't really thrash the cornering because it so out of alignment. I have a little driveline clunk on throttle down that I think is probably just drive shaft slack. Considering there is almost no rubber left in the rear end I'm happy if that and a tiny bit more gear whine is the worst. The most shocking improvement so far was how immediate power delivery is now. I can't wait to see how my 60ft times improved. Hopefully it will get in to be aligned early next week then I'll really start beating on it.

Some pics from yesterday. A couple more things to torque and the car will be rolling again. Lots of new bits - Performance Pack Shocks, BMR Springs, End links, sway bar, diff bushing inserts: http://i.imgur.com/VcQx71Hl.jpg Rear cradle lockout: http://i.imgur.com/NGNwVjel.jpg Vertical Links: http://i.imgur.com/2ly5vS0l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gi70R2Ll.jpg Sways and End Links: http://i.imgur.com/rJRTxjUl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/gBjP1Ydl.jpg Toe Rods: http://i.imgur.com/fkQqwzIl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/2pZE6o2l.jpg And the part that took way too much of my day, toe rod to knuckle bushings: http://i.imgur.com/QA1mudRl.jpg